Greece 2018
Start, Wednesday 31 January 2018
This year’s journey started in Dover. Boarding was late because the sea had been lumpy in the morning. But our crossing was wonderfully smooth. As soon as we arrived in Dunkirk we topped up Bessy at Auchan filling station and then straight to the Aire at Dunkirk Malo. It was empty.
Only later did Judit notice the sign over the entrance… “No Motorhomes” and something else in French so we ignored the sign.
About 800 meters up the road is one of the wonderful Leclerc supermarkets. What a fantastic range of food, so we bought a can of Confit of Duck. They also have an ATM so we were able to use our Caxton card and get some cash.
This year’s journey started in Dover. Boarding was late because the sea had been lumpy in the morning. But our crossing was wonderfully smooth. As soon as we arrived in Dunkirk we topped up Bessy at Auchan filling station and then straight to the Aire at Dunkirk Malo. It was empty.
Only later did Judit notice the sign over the entrance… “No Motorhomes” and something else in French so we ignored the sign.
About 800 meters up the road is one of the wonderful Leclerc supermarkets. What a fantastic range of food, so we bought a can of Confit of Duck. They also have an ATM so we were able to use our Caxton card and get some cash.
Electricity, Thursday 1 February 2018
Very quiet night. Nobody came to throw us off the Aire. However it was a cold morning. Our route today took us towards Ostend, then Brussel and the ring and on to Arlon in the south of Belgium.
We were lucky to get the last place in the Aire behind the Fire Station. That meant we could use a hook up and use the fan heater… it was still cold.
In fact it was 4 degrees in the morning with a heavy dusting of snow.
Very quiet night. Nobody came to throw us off the Aire. However it was a cold morning. Our route today took us towards Ostend, then Brussel and the ring and on to Arlon in the south of Belgium.
We were lucky to get the last place in the Aire behind the Fire Station. That meant we could use a hook up and use the fan heater… it was still cold.
In fact it was 4 degrees in the morning with a heavy dusting of snow.
Only Trucks, Friday 2 February 2018
As usual we topped up in Luxembourg for €1.01 per litre (£1.12 approx). Later we found that the SatNav had reset itself and we were on a toll road, so we went cross-country and found that we would take one hour longer. France must have had a lot of rain because most fields had large pools of water in them. The last possible Stellplatz before Switzerland is at a Truck Stop in Binzen.
Later the man in charge came around and told us that they only allow trucks. However after a bit of sweet talking and paying €10 we were allowed to stay for the night. The alternatives are down by the river and do not look too inviting; maybe they are OK.
It’s a shame about the truck stop because there is a restaurant and filling station.
As usual we topped up in Luxembourg for €1.01 per litre (£1.12 approx). Later we found that the SatNav had reset itself and we were on a toll road, so we went cross-country and found that we would take one hour longer. France must have had a lot of rain because most fields had large pools of water in them. The last possible Stellplatz before Switzerland is at a Truck Stop in Binzen.
Later the man in charge came around and told us that they only allow trucks. However after a bit of sweet talking and paying €10 we were allowed to stay for the night. The alternatives are down by the river and do not look too inviting; maybe they are OK.
It’s a shame about the truck stop because there is a restaurant and filling station.
Under Switzerland, Saturday 3 Feb 2018
The night at the truck stop had been very quiet. Luckily we were not next to a refrigerated lorry. First thing after breakfast was a short walk to a nearby furniture shop which had some excellent toilets. Work it out yourself!
Then back to Bessy and a short drive up the road to an Aral station to get a diesel top up. Not as cheap as Luxembourg (£1.14 a liter).
Then we were ready for off just as it started snowing. Within minutes we were entering Switzerland at Basl. No need to stop this time as our “Any 10 days a year” pass was still valid.
Switzerland is very picturesque but not for the driver, who should be concentrating on the road, so we started a new game to keep us amused. In the past we had driven through many tunnels and now we wondered how far we actually travelled UNDER Switzerland. After 36 tunnels we calculate we were under Switzerland for 55.522 kilometres on a journey of 300 kilometres. So we were underground for about half an hour. To put it another way we were under Switzerland for 18.5% of the journey.
Although the road was perfectly clear we had several snow showers and could see the snow-line on the mountains alongside the road. As we emerged from the Gotthard Tunnel, after 16.942 kilometres, there was much more snow around as the photo should show. On the plus side the road was clear and so was the sky. At last a clear blue sky.
At the Italian border the traffic was funnelled into one line to drive slowly through a chicane in front of three brutish looking border guards. Proof that man really is descended from the apes.
Then off the motorway and within 5 minutes were in the Sosta at Tavernola. It really is a well made Sosta. Fenced all round with lights and video cameras for security. Take a ticket at the barrier and enter. On leaving take the ticket to a central pay-station, stick it in the correct slot and it tells you how much to pay. Do that with cash or card and take the ticket to the exit barrier and away you go.There is a dump, a grey water drain, fresh water and 10 amp electricity. All of those have to be paid for if you need them. The pitches are perfectly level and there are lovely shrubs and flower beds between them. All told it is a credit to the local “council”. One very slight moan… it could have been about one meter bigger all round as it was a wiggle for Bessy at 7.5 meters.
After lunch we walked into the town to find an ATM. The nearest was in a large shopping centre called Bennets. It’s worth a visit for the food alone. But prices seemed higher than in UK supermarkets. Ian noticed that Johnny Walker was selling for about €10 a bottle… so the Italians do benefit from UK’s massive taxes on booze via the EU!
The night at the truck stop had been very quiet. Luckily we were not next to a refrigerated lorry. First thing after breakfast was a short walk to a nearby furniture shop which had some excellent toilets. Work it out yourself!
Then back to Bessy and a short drive up the road to an Aral station to get a diesel top up. Not as cheap as Luxembourg (£1.14 a liter).
Then we were ready for off just as it started snowing. Within minutes we were entering Switzerland at Basl. No need to stop this time as our “Any 10 days a year” pass was still valid.
Switzerland is very picturesque but not for the driver, who should be concentrating on the road, so we started a new game to keep us amused. In the past we had driven through many tunnels and now we wondered how far we actually travelled UNDER Switzerland. After 36 tunnels we calculate we were under Switzerland for 55.522 kilometres on a journey of 300 kilometres. So we were underground for about half an hour. To put it another way we were under Switzerland for 18.5% of the journey.
Although the road was perfectly clear we had several snow showers and could see the snow-line on the mountains alongside the road. As we emerged from the Gotthard Tunnel, after 16.942 kilometres, there was much more snow around as the photo should show. On the plus side the road was clear and so was the sky. At last a clear blue sky.
At the Italian border the traffic was funnelled into one line to drive slowly through a chicane in front of three brutish looking border guards. Proof that man really is descended from the apes.
Then off the motorway and within 5 minutes were in the Sosta at Tavernola. It really is a well made Sosta. Fenced all round with lights and video cameras for security. Take a ticket at the barrier and enter. On leaving take the ticket to a central pay-station, stick it in the correct slot and it tells you how much to pay. Do that with cash or card and take the ticket to the exit barrier and away you go.There is a dump, a grey water drain, fresh water and 10 amp electricity. All of those have to be paid for if you need them. The pitches are perfectly level and there are lovely shrubs and flower beds between them. All told it is a credit to the local “council”. One very slight moan… it could have been about one meter bigger all round as it was a wiggle for Bessy at 7.5 meters.
After lunch we walked into the town to find an ATM. The nearest was in a large shopping centre called Bennets. It’s worth a visit for the food alone. But prices seemed higher than in UK supermarkets. Ian noticed that Johnny Walker was selling for about €10 a bottle… so the Italians do benefit from UK’s massive taxes on booze via the EU!
Carnival, Sunday 4 Feb 2018
In the morning we left Tavernola and joined the Autostrada (motorway) and headed south east for the coast. Although we hate having to pay it is far, far quicker to use the motorway here than use the non-toll roads,
Anyway the run across Northern Italy was OK and by early evening we were at Fano where there is a FREE sosta for motorhomes. It was strange to be heading into Fano while thousands of people were walking the same way. When we hit the Police roadblock we realised that it was Carnival time and the area was off limits. There was no option but to try and find a way round it but after hitting several roadblocks we gave up and headed for Torrette di Fano where there is supposed to be another free sosta.
However that was either closed or did not exist. But there was an open entrance to a campsite so we drove in. The place was deserted… had they also gone to the carnival? It was a very quiet night.
In the morning we spotted the man in charge and explained what we had done and he was quite happy about it. He even refused to take any money. What a nice man.
In the morning we left Tavernola and joined the Autostrada (motorway) and headed south east for the coast. Although we hate having to pay it is far, far quicker to use the motorway here than use the non-toll roads,
Anyway the run across Northern Italy was OK and by early evening we were at Fano where there is a FREE sosta for motorhomes. It was strange to be heading into Fano while thousands of people were walking the same way. When we hit the Police roadblock we realised that it was Carnival time and the area was off limits. There was no option but to try and find a way round it but after hitting several roadblocks we gave up and headed for Torrette di Fano where there is supposed to be another free sosta.
However that was either closed or did not exist. But there was an open entrance to a campsite so we drove in. The place was deserted… had they also gone to the carnival? It was a very quiet night.
In the morning we spotted the man in charge and explained what we had done and he was quite happy about it. He even refused to take any money. What a nice man.
Not far, Monday 5 February 2018
After leaving the camp we topped up on diesel and LPG before hitting the motorway and pointing south. Now the sun was shining and we had a pleasant cruise on the relatively quiet motorway. We had planned to stop at Fossacesia Marina but it was still early afternoon so we went a bit further to Barletta. There are said to be two or three places to stop but we took the car park next to a roundabout on the sea front. It was a bit scruffy and sloping a little but it was OK for the night. In fact the whole town seemed a bit deserted and scruffy. Driving was definitely Southern Italy style with people ignoring traffic light or just pulling out without looking. A good Italian friend of ours told us that traffic signs in Italy were, “not for information… only for decoration”!
After leaving the camp we topped up on diesel and LPG before hitting the motorway and pointing south. Now the sun was shining and we had a pleasant cruise on the relatively quiet motorway. We had planned to stop at Fossacesia Marina but it was still early afternoon so we went a bit further to Barletta. There are said to be two or three places to stop but we took the car park next to a roundabout on the sea front. It was a bit scruffy and sloping a little but it was OK for the night. In fact the whole town seemed a bit deserted and scruffy. Driving was definitely Southern Italy style with people ignoring traffic light or just pulling out without looking. A good Italian friend of ours told us that traffic signs in Italy were, “not for information… only for decoration”!
Recline, Tuesday 6 February 2018
Bari Port. The wrecked ship Normal Islander was still on the dockside. They appear to have removed the vehicles from the inside. But it is not good PR for a ferry journey. Again the place was almost deserted but the check-in lady was charming and booked us a place on that evening’s ferry to Patras. As it was only 11-00 am we went for a walk around the charming old town and had a bite to eat. Whatever it was it came from a packet and went into a microwave. Ian’s dish looked as good as a large Cornish pasty. In reality it was not pastry but a sort of donut dough. It would be a lie to say it was filled. In reality it contained a spoonful of cheese and a blush of tomato paste. This confirmed to Ian that a lot of Italian food is over-rated. Sorry.
At 17-00 we drove onto the harbour area and after handing over our tickets were directed to the ship. We soon found we were first on board. And the steward made us reverse all the way into the rear corner. As we left Bessy we saw her being surrounded by large articulated lorries. Six inches seems to be the standard gap between vehicles today.
As we were moving down the Adriatic dinner was served; and there was a lot of it. We settled for a large lump of lamb. Granted we had to dissect it ourselves but it was certainly tasty and filling.
Bari Port. The wrecked ship Normal Islander was still on the dockside. They appear to have removed the vehicles from the inside. But it is not good PR for a ferry journey. Again the place was almost deserted but the check-in lady was charming and booked us a place on that evening’s ferry to Patras. As it was only 11-00 am we went for a walk around the charming old town and had a bite to eat. Whatever it was it came from a packet and went into a microwave. Ian’s dish looked as good as a large Cornish pasty. In reality it was not pastry but a sort of donut dough. It would be a lie to say it was filled. In reality it contained a spoonful of cheese and a blush of tomato paste. This confirmed to Ian that a lot of Italian food is over-rated. Sorry.
At 17-00 we drove onto the harbour area and after handing over our tickets were directed to the ship. We soon found we were first on board. And the steward made us reverse all the way into the rear corner. As we left Bessy we saw her being surrounded by large articulated lorries. Six inches seems to be the standard gap between vehicles today.
As we were moving down the Adriatic dinner was served; and there was a lot of it. We settled for a large lump of lamb. Granted we had to dissect it ourselves but it was certainly tasty and filling.
Finikes, Wednesday 7 February 2018
At 06-30 we moored at Igoumenitsa where unloading was very quick and we left at 07-00 for Patras. We arrived at Patras at exactly 13-30 where, once again, unloading was very quick and we were soon heading along the Greek motorway in a southerly direction.
Our only stop was at Lidl, on the outskirts of Kyparissia, for last minute shopping. At 1740 we were in our favourite campsite, Finikes, at Finikunda where we were warmly greeted by Rod, Albert and Gabi and Hans and Erika.
Thursday 8 February 2018
Getting tidy and resting.
At 06-30 we moored at Igoumenitsa where unloading was very quick and we left at 07-00 for Patras. We arrived at Patras at exactly 13-30 where, once again, unloading was very quick and we were soon heading along the Greek motorway in a southerly direction.
Our only stop was at Lidl, on the outskirts of Kyparissia, for last minute shopping. At 1740 we were in our favourite campsite, Finikes, at Finikunda where we were warmly greeted by Rod, Albert and Gabi and Hans and Erika.
Thursday 8 February 2018
Getting tidy and resting.
Leaking, Friday 9 February 2018
Rose called at the camp to collect the Asian shopping we had brought here from the UK. Good to see her again.
Albert warned us that the weather would be bad at the weekend so he climbed onto our roof with some sticky black bituminous “SOS Tape” and taped around the leaking roof light. Now we cannot open it but it should keep us dry until we get to a Hungarian motorhome repair man.
Thanks Albert. Ian was made to feel like a spare “whatsit” at a wedding.
We also have a leak in the water pump area. Probably because Ian filled Bessy with water a few days before starting and then the temperature dropped below freezing for a few days.
Saturday 10 February 2018
It did rain. Albert was correct and we have had no leaks so far. In fact it was very heavy rain on and off for most of the day and the campsite was like a river.
Judit took advantage of the dry periods to give Bessy an outside wash and brush up. Ian had a look at the water pump area. The pressure chamber certainly needed a few screws tightening so we hope that will be the end of the matter.
Rose called at the camp to collect the Asian shopping we had brought here from the UK. Good to see her again.
Albert warned us that the weather would be bad at the weekend so he climbed onto our roof with some sticky black bituminous “SOS Tape” and taped around the leaking roof light. Now we cannot open it but it should keep us dry until we get to a Hungarian motorhome repair man.
Thanks Albert. Ian was made to feel like a spare “whatsit” at a wedding.
We also have a leak in the water pump area. Probably because Ian filled Bessy with water a few days before starting and then the temperature dropped below freezing for a few days.
Saturday 10 February 2018
It did rain. Albert was correct and we have had no leaks so far. In fact it was very heavy rain on and off for most of the day and the campsite was like a river.
Judit took advantage of the dry periods to give Bessy an outside wash and brush up. Ian had a look at the water pump area. The pressure chamber certainly needed a few screws tightening so we hope that will be the end of the matter.
More leaks, Sunday 11 February 2018
As the day progressed we saw that the freezing Yorkshire conditions had caused more plumbing damage than we wanted. The water pump filter seemed the be weeping and absolutely full of lime scale.
In addition the bathroom tap was leaking through a connection in the neck of the tap. That was sorted with amalgamating tape, but it was not enough as water seemed to be leaking out of the body of the tap. The tap was not a simple old fashioned tap but one of those with a lever; left-right for water temperature, up-down for water flow. Over complicated.
Another problem was that the flexible pipes were of an unknown type. Just push the pipe into the fitting and that’s it. It was impossible to remove the pipe.
The good part of the day was attending Finikunda Carnival where we met Chris and Tracie and Rose and friends. It was an excellent colourful, if very noisy, afternoon.
As the day progressed we saw that the freezing Yorkshire conditions had caused more plumbing damage than we wanted. The water pump filter seemed the be weeping and absolutely full of lime scale.
In addition the bathroom tap was leaking through a connection in the neck of the tap. That was sorted with amalgamating tape, but it was not enough as water seemed to be leaking out of the body of the tap. The tap was not a simple old fashioned tap but one of those with a lever; left-right for water temperature, up-down for water flow. Over complicated.
Another problem was that the flexible pipes were of an unknown type. Just push the pipe into the fitting and that’s it. It was impossible to remove the pipe.
The good part of the day was attending Finikunda Carnival where we met Chris and Tracie and Rose and friends. It was an excellent colourful, if very noisy, afternoon.
Monday 12 February 2018
We drove to the hardware/building shop at Pylos but he had no ideas how to remove the pipes. He gave us the telephone number of a German plumber but we could not contact him.
Back to camp and use bottled water from our on-pitch tap.
Later in the day we got another telephone number for a man called Dimitri in Loutra… next door to Finikunda. Once again we could not get through.
A battery? Tuesday 13 February 2018
Drive to the village and have a word with the Gardenia boss. He called a man who would be with us in 10 minutes. After the Greek 50 minutes he arrived… it was Dimitri.
He did no more than crunch up the fittings to allow removal of the pipes. That enabled removal of the tap. But because plastic pipes are strange sizes he told us to go the a certain shop in Kalamata to buy a tap, certain fittings and pipes.
We also learnt a few new words in Greek. According to Dimitri a tap is a “battery” and a pipe is a “spiral”. Something may be lost in translation because that is not what Google Translate calls them. But never mind.
Immediately after leaving Dimitri we headed for Kalamata. We found the shop OK but it was closed… bugger!
We drove to the hardware/building shop at Pylos but he had no ideas how to remove the pipes. He gave us the telephone number of a German plumber but we could not contact him.
Back to camp and use bottled water from our on-pitch tap.
Later in the day we got another telephone number for a man called Dimitri in Loutra… next door to Finikunda. Once again we could not get through.
A battery? Tuesday 13 February 2018
Drive to the village and have a word with the Gardenia boss. He called a man who would be with us in 10 minutes. After the Greek 50 minutes he arrived… it was Dimitri.
He did no more than crunch up the fittings to allow removal of the pipes. That enabled removal of the tap. But because plastic pipes are strange sizes he told us to go the a certain shop in Kalamata to buy a tap, certain fittings and pipes.
We also learnt a few new words in Greek. According to Dimitri a tap is a “battery” and a pipe is a “spiral”. Something may be lost in translation because that is not what Google Translate calls them. But never mind.
Immediately after leaving Dimitri we headed for Kalamata. We found the shop OK but it was closed… bugger!
Dirty mouse, Friday 16 February 2018
Back to Kalamata. Found the shop again and luckily parked outside. The man in the shop told us they do NOT do plumbing items at all. But he pointed us to “Hydra”.
Kalamata is not designed for motor vehicles, especially large motorhomes, so it was quite an adventure finding Hydra. We managed to park about 500 yards away. The staff were very helpful and we managed to buy the tap, pipes and fittings. However they agreed that we need to speak to plastic pipe people and told us to go to Dimo.
Luckily they had their own yard to park in. Once again the staff were very helpful. One guy even drove off to an air conditioning shop to find some plastic pipes. When he came back he proceeded to fit all the bits together. He refused to take any money and told us to pay in the shop. It cost us €10. Cheap at the price.
Back into town where we parked and walked to find a restaurant we had visited years ago with Rose. To be honest we do not know the name but we know the location. The food is good home cooking. Everything is set out in pans for you to choose from. Good honest grub such as Stefado which Ian chose. Judit chose pork with celery. Both helpings were massive. Ian’s beef was a five inch cube and Judit’s pork a similar size. With bread, water and the two meals the bill came to €13. Excellent value and very tasty.
Yet another project was to find “iRepair” because the Mac mouse had gone to sleep. The store is excellent for sorting out any computer problem. The man repaired the mouse in 30 seconds. He had simply cleaned the terminals with a magic potion. How embarrassing having cleaned it ourselves. Cost… nothing. A shop worth remembering.
On the journey back to camp we bought a bag of oranges (about 20 oranges) for €3 and some tomatoes. Judit asked the price while the man was filling a plastic bag with tomatoes. Judit said “That’s too much” meaning he had put too many tomatoes in the bag. He thought she meant the price and added even more tomatoes. We ended up with 2 kilos of toms for €1.
Back to Kalamata. Found the shop again and luckily parked outside. The man in the shop told us they do NOT do plumbing items at all. But he pointed us to “Hydra”.
Kalamata is not designed for motor vehicles, especially large motorhomes, so it was quite an adventure finding Hydra. We managed to park about 500 yards away. The staff were very helpful and we managed to buy the tap, pipes and fittings. However they agreed that we need to speak to plastic pipe people and told us to go to Dimo.
Luckily they had their own yard to park in. Once again the staff were very helpful. One guy even drove off to an air conditioning shop to find some plastic pipes. When he came back he proceeded to fit all the bits together. He refused to take any money and told us to pay in the shop. It cost us €10. Cheap at the price.
Back into town where we parked and walked to find a restaurant we had visited years ago with Rose. To be honest we do not know the name but we know the location. The food is good home cooking. Everything is set out in pans for you to choose from. Good honest grub such as Stefado which Ian chose. Judit chose pork with celery. Both helpings were massive. Ian’s beef was a five inch cube and Judit’s pork a similar size. With bread, water and the two meals the bill came to €13. Excellent value and very tasty.
Yet another project was to find “iRepair” because the Mac mouse had gone to sleep. The store is excellent for sorting out any computer problem. The man repaired the mouse in 30 seconds. He had simply cleaned the terminals with a magic potion. How embarrassing having cleaned it ourselves. Cost… nothing. A shop worth remembering.
On the journey back to camp we bought a bag of oranges (about 20 oranges) for €3 and some tomatoes. Judit asked the price while the man was filling a plastic bag with tomatoes. Judit said “That’s too much” meaning he had put too many tomatoes in the bag. He thought she meant the price and added even more tomatoes. We ended up with 2 kilos of toms for €1.
Meet old friends at Tsapi
Nor far from Finikunda is the small beach at Tsapi. We had been invited to attend a party to celebrate the birthday of another travelling acquaintance. The company was good, the food was simple but so, so tasty. The sun shone and everyone had a good time.
Nor far from Finikunda is the small beach at Tsapi. We had been invited to attend a party to celebrate the birthday of another travelling acquaintance. The company was good, the food was simple but so, so tasty. The sun shone and everyone had a good time.
Pickled Pump, Saturday 17 February 2018
Back to waterworks again. Ian managed to remove the weeping filter and plopped it into a pot of vinegar. Half a liter of red wine vinegar for €0.60. Not bad. It took the whole day to get rid of the lime scale.
After many changes of vinegar Ian filled the water tank and we pressurised the system. The water filter held but one of the bathroom connectors was weeping. Empty the water tank again and let things dry out.
Back to waterworks again. Ian managed to remove the weeping filter and plopped it into a pot of vinegar. Half a liter of red wine vinegar for €0.60. Not bad. It took the whole day to get rid of the lime scale.
After many changes of vinegar Ian filled the water tank and we pressurised the system. The water filter held but one of the bathroom connectors was weeping. Empty the water tank again and let things dry out.
Sunday 18 February 2018
Another sunny day. We’ve had three sunny days so far and it is a delight to walk about. Families were on the beach flying kites. It is part of the Clean Monday tradition.
Monday 19 February 2018
Ian eventually removed the weeping pipe in the bathroom and reinserted it with a smear of sealant. We will wait a day for things to set before refilling and starting the pump.
It’s Methoni Carnival today but we gave it a miss as we have heavy drizzle all day.
Another sunny day. We’ve had three sunny days so far and it is a delight to walk about. Families were on the beach flying kites. It is part of the Clean Monday tradition.
Monday 19 February 2018
Ian eventually removed the weeping pipe in the bathroom and reinserted it with a smear of sealant. We will wait a day for things to set before refilling and starting the pump.
It’s Methoni Carnival today but we gave it a miss as we have heavy drizzle all day.
CONTACTS FOR WATER AND COMPUTERS
- Dimitri +306974725655
- Ydro plumbing N 37° 2.247’, E 22° 6.504'
- Dimo plastic plumbing N 37° 2.140’, E 22° 5.485'
- iRepair N 37° 2.384’, E 22° 6.645’. https://irepair.gr/en
New Castle Food
One evening we ventured out with our friends, Rose and Alf, to Castro Taverna in Methoni. Surprise… it has gone up-market. The owner’s son has been studying at a catering college in Athens and came back with new ideas. He was also the chef.
We enjoyed his new menu and it was perfectly cooked. We had a starter of Shiitake mushrooms deep fried with a cheese sauce. The young man certainly knows his trade because the mushrooms were not greasy and the sauce complemented the mushrooms.
Judit had her favourite of fried aubergine and again it was not greasy. The main meals were also well cooked and very tasty. Our compliments to the chef.
Internot (really)
For some reason the internet is very on/off. Sometimes we can watch a movie all the way through using Easy View (https://easyview.eu/) and then later it will stop every few minutes and sometimes the break is for 5 minutes or more. Luckily we have many programmes and films on the laptop so we do not need the internet all the time.
One evening we ventured out with our friends, Rose and Alf, to Castro Taverna in Methoni. Surprise… it has gone up-market. The owner’s son has been studying at a catering college in Athens and came back with new ideas. He was also the chef.
We enjoyed his new menu and it was perfectly cooked. We had a starter of Shiitake mushrooms deep fried with a cheese sauce. The young man certainly knows his trade because the mushrooms were not greasy and the sauce complemented the mushrooms.
Judit had her favourite of fried aubergine and again it was not greasy. The main meals were also well cooked and very tasty. Our compliments to the chef.
Internot (really)
For some reason the internet is very on/off. Sometimes we can watch a movie all the way through using Easy View (https://easyview.eu/) and then later it will stop every few minutes and sometimes the break is for 5 minutes or more. Luckily we have many programmes and films on the laptop so we do not need the internet all the time.
War in the air
For the last week we’ve been lucky enough to have clear skies and watch the vapour trails of fast jets.
Hellenic air force-led multinational large force flying exercise Iniochos 2018. The start took place in Andravida Air Force base in Peloponnese with an impressive line up of participating Air Forces fighter jets from Greece, USA, UAE, UK, Italy and Cyprus.
For the last week we’ve been lucky enough to have clear skies and watch the vapour trails of fast jets.
Hellenic air force-led multinational large force flying exercise Iniochos 2018. The start took place in Andravida Air Force base in Peloponnese with an impressive line up of participating Air Forces fighter jets from Greece, USA, UAE, UK, Italy and Cyprus.
“Short Holiday”, 20 March 2018
On 20 March we had two days out of camp in Kalamata. Our friends Albert and Gabi recommended that we stay at Kalamata Marina… so we did.
It’s very good and not far from the town centre for sightseeing and shopping. In the afternoon we had a roam around and also shopped at Jumbo. This is a shop that sells almost everything. Most of it is cheap tat but now and again you can find interesting things. For example they had some drones on sale. The cheapest was €39. Ian struggled to resist the temptation.
Next day we visited the vegetable market at the far end of town near the castle. It’s quite an interesting place and the range of food on sale is amazing. The fish stalls, in particular, had a wonderful range of unidentifiable fish but well presented.
The butchers were selling all parts of the sheep and pig. We bought some Pasto, pork that had been marinaded in herbs for days then roast and smoked. It is delicious.
On 20 March we had two days out of camp in Kalamata. Our friends Albert and Gabi recommended that we stay at Kalamata Marina… so we did.
It’s very good and not far from the town centre for sightseeing and shopping. In the afternoon we had a roam around and also shopped at Jumbo. This is a shop that sells almost everything. Most of it is cheap tat but now and again you can find interesting things. For example they had some drones on sale. The cheapest was €39. Ian struggled to resist the temptation.
Next day we visited the vegetable market at the far end of town near the castle. It’s quite an interesting place and the range of food on sale is amazing. The fish stalls, in particular, had a wonderful range of unidentifiable fish but well presented.
The butchers were selling all parts of the sheep and pig. We bought some Pasto, pork that had been marinaded in herbs for days then roast and smoked. It is delicious.
We were surprised to bump into Ilias from Ploes Taverna in Finikunda. I commented that there was almost everything in the market. But no chillis. He said he was heading to another market and would buy some for me.
After the market we meandered through the old town where Ian bought some cheap trainers. Then we progressed towards the marina via lots of shops. Ian was carrying the groceries all the way and now has arms 6 inches longer than before.
In the evening we ate out as there are many restaurants just outside the marina. Judit had her favourite starter of aubergine and Ian had a large portion of gigantes (giant beans). For main Judit had a very tasty creamy chicken with mushrooms and Ian ate souvlaki (meat on a stick) and CHIPS !
On the last day of our “holiday”we called at LIDL for groceries. We are stocking up for the coming visit of our friend Pat. Then back to camp. The day was special because of Sahara sand filling the air and making everything orange. It began to clear as we drove back to Finikunda.
After the market we meandered through the old town where Ian bought some cheap trainers. Then we progressed towards the marina via lots of shops. Ian was carrying the groceries all the way and now has arms 6 inches longer than before.
In the evening we ate out as there are many restaurants just outside the marina. Judit had her favourite starter of aubergine and Ian had a large portion of gigantes (giant beans). For main Judit had a very tasty creamy chicken with mushrooms and Ian ate souvlaki (meat on a stick) and CHIPS !
On the last day of our “holiday”we called at LIDL for groceries. We are stocking up for the coming visit of our friend Pat. Then back to camp. The day was special because of Sahara sand filling the air and making everything orange. It began to clear as we drove back to Finikunda.
ATM Woes
On our way to collect the chillies from Ilias Judit attempted to use the ATM in Finikunda. Big mistake because it is not outside a bank. The machine took the card as if there was no machine behind the slot… just like posting a letter.
Ilias was very helpful and called the local bank. The did not want to do anything and told him to contact the people who stock the ATM… in Athens. They also did not want to do anything so we had to cancel Judit’s Caxton card. We did this on SKYPE and they were helpful but to have another card sent to Greece would cost £60.00 for the courier. We declined and will use Ian’s Caxton card from now on.
On our way to collect the chillies from Ilias Judit attempted to use the ATM in Finikunda. Big mistake because it is not outside a bank. The machine took the card as if there was no machine behind the slot… just like posting a letter.
Ilias was very helpful and called the local bank. The did not want to do anything and told him to contact the people who stock the ATM… in Athens. They also did not want to do anything so we had to cancel Judit’s Caxton card. We did this on SKYPE and they were helpful but to have another card sent to Greece would cost £60.00 for the courier. We declined and will use Ian’s Caxton card from now on.
A cat called Cat
Ian is a dog man and does not like cats. Judit doesn't like dogs or cats. We do not hate them, we just don't seem to understand them. What is worse, almost all campsites in Greece have feral cats roaming around and begging for food.
The exception was a ginger cat at Camping Finikes. She adopted us and we found that we didn't mind. She never begged, she never bit or scratched. She was just plain nice.
Naturally we did give her the occasional titbit and we did roll her on her back so we could tickle her belly. We even went cat crazy and bought some Cat Sticks from Lidl. She really loved them. Maybe the contain hash or cocaine but once she heard the paper rustle she was there.
Cat would sleep outside the motorhome, under the step. She never made an effort to enter the motorhome unlike most of the feral cats. Best of all she would listen to my command, "Come on" and she would get up and follow us on a walk. We would go to the beach where she climbed among the rocks and did a Lion King pose.
Of course we left her at the camp when we started travelling, but we miss her. Hopefully she will remember us.
Ian is a dog man and does not like cats. Judit doesn't like dogs or cats. We do not hate them, we just don't seem to understand them. What is worse, almost all campsites in Greece have feral cats roaming around and begging for food.
The exception was a ginger cat at Camping Finikes. She adopted us and we found that we didn't mind. She never begged, she never bit or scratched. She was just plain nice.
Naturally we did give her the occasional titbit and we did roll her on her back so we could tickle her belly. We even went cat crazy and bought some Cat Sticks from Lidl. She really loved them. Maybe the contain hash or cocaine but once she heard the paper rustle she was there.
Cat would sleep outside the motorhome, under the step. She never made an effort to enter the motorhome unlike most of the feral cats. Best of all she would listen to my command, "Come on" and she would get up and follow us on a walk. We would go to the beach where she climbed among the rocks and did a Lion King pose.
Of course we left her at the camp when we started travelling, but we miss her. Hopefully she will remember us.
Weather
Wonderful. Sunny but not too hot. But we did have two days of rain and thunderstorms. That meant the beach was littered with bamboo. Where does it all come from?
Wonderful. Sunny but not too hot. But we did have two days of rain and thunderstorms. That meant the beach was littered with bamboo. Where does it all come from?
Pat Arrived, 21 April 2018
Our very good English friend Pat came to visit us. She had a terrible journey from Yorkshire to Gatwick for the flight to Kalamata. But at least her plane arrived on time and the weather had improved.
Coincidentally, our other friend, Alf, was on the same flight and we were able to take him home to Lachanada on the way back to Camping Finikes. Pat stayed in one of the camp’s apartments for her visit.
In brief we had a great time even if it was a little exhausting in parts. Our first run out was to Ancient Messini where there was a play being performed by students from the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art. Once again we met up with Alf and Rose. The weather was very warm and we were all a bit tired after walking around the large ancient site.
Our very good English friend Pat came to visit us. She had a terrible journey from Yorkshire to Gatwick for the flight to Kalamata. But at least her plane arrived on time and the weather had improved.
Coincidentally, our other friend, Alf, was on the same flight and we were able to take him home to Lachanada on the way back to Camping Finikes. Pat stayed in one of the camp’s apartments for her visit.
In brief we had a great time even if it was a little exhausting in parts. Our first run out was to Ancient Messini where there was a play being performed by students from the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art. Once again we met up with Alf and Rose. The weather was very warm and we were all a bit tired after walking around the large ancient site.
Sticky Bun
Another outing was to Koroni. This time we were lucky, having rented a Fiat 500 we were able to drive all the way into the castle. Once there we visited the convent and met the very friendly nuns. Back down on the sea front we were able to enjoy a coffee and a sticky bun… lovely.
Naturally we visited Finikunda and introduced Pat to the delights of a frappe at Gardenia.
Another outing was to Koroni. This time we were lucky, having rented a Fiat 500 we were able to drive all the way into the castle. Once there we visited the convent and met the very friendly nuns. Back down on the sea front we were able to enjoy a coffee and a sticky bun… lovely.
Naturally we visited Finikunda and introduced Pat to the delights of a frappe at Gardenia.
Nestor covers up
One outing was to Nestor’s Palace which has had a facelift. The whole palace is covered from the elements and has walkways above. So no more meandering at ground level. The nearby village with the museum was much appreciated.
One outing was to Nestor’s Palace which has had a facelift. The whole palace is covered from the elements and has walkways above. So no more meandering at ground level. The nearby village with the museum was much appreciated.
Pylos
Another place with a face lift was Pylos castle where we visited the new exhibition of local underwater archeology. Very nice indeed. Followed by a Gyros in the town square. It's compulsory when we visit the town.
Rest days mooching around camp and the beach were appreciated by all. One small adventure was to go directly north from the camp and explore the small villages in the small car. Rural Greece is only a few kilometres from the coast.
Another place with a face lift was Pylos castle where we visited the new exhibition of local underwater archeology. Very nice indeed. Followed by a Gyros in the town square. It's compulsory when we visit the town.
Rest days mooching around camp and the beach were appreciated by all. One small adventure was to go directly north from the camp and explore the small villages in the small car. Rural Greece is only a few kilometres from the coast.
Tsapi
For a few days Pat’s end of the campsite was quite noisy. More than 30 families arrived and really enjoyed themselves. It was a group led by the Greek Prime Minister and families from his children’s school. How about that?
Hob nobbing over, we took Pat to Methoni and later we had a lovely meal at the taverna in Tsapi.
But holidays always end and we had to take Pat back to Kalamata Airport for her journey home. We all had a good time..
For a few days Pat’s end of the campsite was quite noisy. More than 30 families arrived and really enjoyed themselves. It was a group led by the Greek Prime Minister and families from his children’s school. How about that?
Hob nobbing over, we took Pat to Methoni and later we had a lovely meal at the taverna in Tsapi.
But holidays always end and we had to take Pat back to Kalamata Airport for her journey home. We all had a good time..
iRepair, 5 May 2018
After dropping Pat off at the airport we drove into Kalamata and found iRepair. George confirmed that the hard drive was misbehaving and that we would need another. While Ian mooched around in the store, Judit went shopping for sandals for her niece. George made arrangements for a solid state drive and we went back to Finikes to await the message that the Mac was ready.
We got the word on the 11th and went to Kalamata Marina for a short stay.
Next day Ian again spent some time at the store while Judit went to the hairdresser and the castle. In the old town she saw a group of students dressed in giant costumes… why?
So she carried on to the market and bought a shed load of Pasto. This is a dried, smoked and marinated lump of meat. Absolutely delicious.
She even found some Jasmine perfume; again a family present.
After dropping Pat off at the airport we drove into Kalamata and found iRepair. George confirmed that the hard drive was misbehaving and that we would need another. While Ian mooched around in the store, Judit went shopping for sandals for her niece. George made arrangements for a solid state drive and we went back to Finikes to await the message that the Mac was ready.
We got the word on the 11th and went to Kalamata Marina for a short stay.
Next day Ian again spent some time at the store while Judit went to the hairdresser and the castle. In the old town she saw a group of students dressed in giant costumes… why?
So she carried on to the market and bought a shed load of Pasto. This is a dried, smoked and marinated lump of meat. Absolutely delicious.
She even found some Jasmine perfume; again a family present.
Taygetos Pass, Sunday 13 May 2018
At last we started travelling. This time we went through the Taygetos Pass in the direction of Sparta. The scenery is outstanding. It looks daunting but there are no major obstacles to worry about.
Our coffee break was in Tripi. A lovely taverna with outstanding views over the plain around Sparta. The village has many fresh water springs at the side of the road.
At last we started travelling. This time we went through the Taygetos Pass in the direction of Sparta. The scenery is outstanding. It looks daunting but there are no major obstacles to worry about.
Our coffee break was in Tripi. A lovely taverna with outstanding views over the plain around Sparta. The village has many fresh water springs at the side of the road.
You can't have too much olive oil
Once in Sparta we followed signs for the Olive Oil Museum. The signs were good until we were close by and then they disappeared. But after a bit of wiggling around we found it. Interestingly there is a car park very close to the museum that might make a good night stop. The museum was very interesting and well presented. Worth a visit.
After learning all about olive oil and its production we drove to Palealogica Camp where we met Peter the boss again. We spent two days there doing the washing and catching up on the internet. Now we are in the High Season and prices have really jumped to almost double the winter rate.
Once in Sparta we followed signs for the Olive Oil Museum. The signs were good until we were close by and then they disappeared. But after a bit of wiggling around we found it. Interestingly there is a car park very close to the museum that might make a good night stop. The museum was very interesting and well presented. Worth a visit.
After learning all about olive oil and its production we drove to Palealogica Camp where we met Peter the boss again. We spent two days there doing the washing and catching up on the internet. Now we are in the High Season and prices have really jumped to almost double the winter rate.
To Nafplio, Tuesday 15 May 2018
We followed a good road past Tripoli and on that road we found a small roadside church full of icons and a dog. The church was completely open and free of graffiti. We took pity on the dog and gave her some water and a small snack. Round the back we found two dog dishes, so clearly somebody regularly cares for the dog.
The surrounding mountains and hills were littered with wind turbines. All very commendable but we could see the negative side of the project as well. Roads had been carved out of the mountain sides to transport the turbines and also enormous scars to carry the electricity to users. Most of the scars were ugly and spoilt the countryside that has been pure and unspoilt for centuries and more.
Our usual spot on the harbour at Nafplio was cluttered with tourist buses and parked cars. The end away from town seemed to cater for motorhomes. We counted 20. At our normal time of travelling we would see two or three at the most.
Lunch was at Goodies; a sort of Greek McDonalds but better. It was clear that students were enjoying trips to historic sites; the place was throbbing.
While meandering through the town Judit spotted a shop selling essential oils so she ordered some orange blossom oil.
We followed a good road past Tripoli and on that road we found a small roadside church full of icons and a dog. The church was completely open and free of graffiti. We took pity on the dog and gave her some water and a small snack. Round the back we found two dog dishes, so clearly somebody regularly cares for the dog.
The surrounding mountains and hills were littered with wind turbines. All very commendable but we could see the negative side of the project as well. Roads had been carved out of the mountain sides to transport the turbines and also enormous scars to carry the electricity to users. Most of the scars were ugly and spoilt the countryside that has been pure and unspoilt for centuries and more.
Our usual spot on the harbour at Nafplio was cluttered with tourist buses and parked cars. The end away from town seemed to cater for motorhomes. We counted 20. At our normal time of travelling we would see two or three at the most.
Lunch was at Goodies; a sort of Greek McDonalds but better. It was clear that students were enjoying trips to historic sites; the place was throbbing.
While meandering through the town Judit spotted a shop selling essential oils so she ordered some orange blossom oil.
Wobbly knees, Wednesday 16 May 2018
Rather than climb the 999 steps to Palamidi castle we cheated and took a taxi to the top for €10.00. If you wanted a return it would be €30.00. The castle is fairly interesting but the major feature for Ian was the fantastic views over the surrounding countryside and the town.
Walking down 999 steps is not as tiring as walking up, but it certainly puts a strain on the knees and quadriceps. We were both wobbling by the time we reached the bottom.
The oil shop had the oil we ordered but it was not orange blossom but orange fruit oil. Who wants to walk around smelling as if they have rubbed themselves down in Fanta? We declined and will look for the blossom oil somewhere else.
After our exertions we stopped for a frappe and a snack of what looked to be spring rolls in a small cafe.
Rather than climb the 999 steps to Palamidi castle we cheated and took a taxi to the top for €10.00. If you wanted a return it would be €30.00. The castle is fairly interesting but the major feature for Ian was the fantastic views over the surrounding countryside and the town.
Walking down 999 steps is not as tiring as walking up, but it certainly puts a strain on the knees and quadriceps. We were both wobbling by the time we reached the bottom.
The oil shop had the oil we ordered but it was not orange blossom but orange fruit oil. Who wants to walk around smelling as if they have rubbed themselves down in Fanta? We declined and will look for the blossom oil somewhere else.
After our exertions we stopped for a frappe and a snack of what looked to be spring rolls in a small cafe.
Olive oil and sweat, Thursday 17 May 2018
Nemea is an area where some of the best wine in Greece is produced. It also has a very good archeological site. The first was a stadium, very much like the one at Olympia. The approach is through the tunnel the competitors would have used in the third century BC.
Just down the road in the village is the other half of the site. There is a small museum of finds and the history, and in the grounds is the remains of the Temple of Zeus. It really is very attractive.
Nemea is an area where some of the best wine in Greece is produced. It also has a very good archeological site. The first was a stadium, very much like the one at Olympia. The approach is through the tunnel the competitors would have used in the third century BC.
Just down the road in the village is the other half of the site. There is a small museum of finds and the history, and in the grounds is the remains of the Temple of Zeus. It really is very attractive.
Also in the grounds is a covered area containing the remains of the baths the athletes used. According to the blurb on the poster the athletes would cover themselves in olive oil before competing and after the event they would return to the baths where they would scrape off the oil and sweat. This would then be bottled and sold as medicine! Lovely.
The village is where the local wine is bottled, so we bought a few bottles for later. We also stopped at a pleasantly situated cafe and enjoyed another frappe. It’s hot work being cultured.
The rest of the day was spent in driving north towards Lake Vouliagmenis via Corinth and the canal. Once again signs that we were travelling in the Summer Season. On our previous visit to the lake we were the only ones there. Now there was about 15 motorhomes. One of them was British which is a surprise because most British motorhomers seem to lack a spirit of adventure and spend their holidays in Spain.
The village is where the local wine is bottled, so we bought a few bottles for later. We also stopped at a pleasantly situated cafe and enjoyed another frappe. It’s hot work being cultured.
The rest of the day was spent in driving north towards Lake Vouliagmenis via Corinth and the canal. Once again signs that we were travelling in the Summer Season. On our previous visit to the lake we were the only ones there. Now there was about 15 motorhomes. One of them was British which is a surprise because most British motorhomers seem to lack a spirit of adventure and spend their holidays in Spain.
To Evia, Friday18 May 2018
About a kilometer away is the temple of Hera which is worth a visit. It is in a beautiful setting overlooking the Gulf of Corinth. Since our last visit new paths have been laid and viewing platforms constructed. Come to Greece and give Spain a miss.
Moving on a short distance we stopped for coffee in Loutraki before taking the Athens motorway to the outskirts of Athens. There we turned north towards Thiva. On the way we were surprised at the considerable damage done by earlier winter storms north of Manda.
The route was quite mountainous before the plains around Thiva. There the road was very straight towards the coast where we crossed the bridge onto Evia island. At Chalcis we turned south and stopped at Camp Milos near Eritrea. The centre of the camp has the remains of a windmill (Milos = mill). Judit spent some time doing some washing.
About a kilometer away is the temple of Hera which is worth a visit. It is in a beautiful setting overlooking the Gulf of Corinth. Since our last visit new paths have been laid and viewing platforms constructed. Come to Greece and give Spain a miss.
Moving on a short distance we stopped for coffee in Loutraki before taking the Athens motorway to the outskirts of Athens. There we turned north towards Thiva. On the way we were surprised at the considerable damage done by earlier winter storms north of Manda.
The route was quite mountainous before the plains around Thiva. There the road was very straight towards the coast where we crossed the bridge onto Evia island. At Chalcis we turned south and stopped at Camp Milos near Eritrea. The centre of the camp has the remains of a windmill (Milos = mill). Judit spent some time doing some washing.
Bog off, Saturday 19 May 2018
Another very hot day. For some reason the toilet would not flush. Ian spent most of the morning playing with the flushing system. Removing the top of the equivalent of the cistern was not difficult so Ian had a probe around inside. The main difficulty is getting a hand inside because the hole is quite small. Then once inside you cannot see what you are doing. Ian said he felt like a vet on a dairy farm. After the first fiddle the water would not stop running. More fiddling until Ian found a boss on the inside that should have had a pipe attached. More fiddling trying the get the correct pipe attached to the correct boss and then it worked.
A useful tip: maybe the pump stops pumping. It is possible that having not been used for a month or two the motor seizes. Just grip the centre rod of the motor with a pair of pliers and turn the rod a couple of rotations. With luck the pump will operate.
We met a couple of Brits on the camp. They were trying to set up a TV antenna so that they could watch Harry and Meghan getting married. We told them to try Freeview or EasyView (https://easyview.eu). They did and so did we. The wedding was good to watch, and Windsor Castle is always good.
Incidentally, FreeView is not free anymore!
Another very hot day. For some reason the toilet would not flush. Ian spent most of the morning playing with the flushing system. Removing the top of the equivalent of the cistern was not difficult so Ian had a probe around inside. The main difficulty is getting a hand inside because the hole is quite small. Then once inside you cannot see what you are doing. Ian said he felt like a vet on a dairy farm. After the first fiddle the water would not stop running. More fiddling until Ian found a boss on the inside that should have had a pipe attached. More fiddling trying the get the correct pipe attached to the correct boss and then it worked.
A useful tip: maybe the pump stops pumping. It is possible that having not been used for a month or two the motor seizes. Just grip the centre rod of the motor with a pair of pliers and turn the rod a couple of rotations. With luck the pump will operate.
We met a couple of Brits on the camp. They were trying to set up a TV antenna so that they could watch Harry and Meghan getting married. We told them to try Freeview or EasyView (https://easyview.eu). They did and so did we. The wedding was good to watch, and Windsor Castle is always good.
Incidentally, FreeView is not free anymore!
Things are never the same, Sunday 20 May 2018
Still on the island of Evia we drove south to Agios Dimitrios. Previously we found that wild camping there was superb and peaceful. Not any more. Before we had been alone now there were 15 static caravans parked near the beach and 5 or 6 motorhomes on the beach. At one end of the beach there is now a daytime disco. Hundreds of people enjoying food, drink and very loud music. What a shame.
To add to the despondency it started to rain and the temperature dropped to 26°C.
Still on the island of Evia we drove south to Agios Dimitrios. Previously we found that wild camping there was superb and peaceful. Not any more. Before we had been alone now there were 15 static caravans parked near the beach and 5 or 6 motorhomes on the beach. At one end of the beach there is now a daytime disco. Hundreds of people enjoying food, drink and very loud music. What a shame.
To add to the despondency it started to rain and the temperature dropped to 26°C.
Disappointed, Monday 21 May 2018
Feeling cheated at having lost a beautiful night stop we went back north, stopping at a very new coffee cafe called “Miss Coffee” in Velos on the way.
Through Eretria, Chalcis and Psachna on mountain roads through thick pine forests. Many of the trees had cuts in them with plastic bags under the cuts. Instead of tapping for rubber the locals were collecting pine resin for retsina wine. They get very little money for this but the EU wishes to maintain the tradition and give a subsidy for each liter collected.
After passing Mantoudi we turned right off the main road towards Kria Vrisi and the beach. Four other motorhomes had the same idea and we all camped for the night on the dark sand.
Good looking cliffs on the headland to our right. To the left at the far end of the beach was a wooden bridge crossing a small river to a taverna, which appeared closed.
Feeling cheated at having lost a beautiful night stop we went back north, stopping at a very new coffee cafe called “Miss Coffee” in Velos on the way.
Through Eretria, Chalcis and Psachna on mountain roads through thick pine forests. Many of the trees had cuts in them with plastic bags under the cuts. Instead of tapping for rubber the locals were collecting pine resin for retsina wine. They get very little money for this but the EU wishes to maintain the tradition and give a subsidy for each liter collected.
After passing Mantoudi we turned right off the main road towards Kria Vrisi and the beach. Four other motorhomes had the same idea and we all camped for the night on the dark sand.
Good looking cliffs on the headland to our right. To the left at the far end of the beach was a wooden bridge crossing a small river to a taverna, which appeared closed.
Feeling Full, Tuesday 22 May 2018
Back to the main road and turn right and through Strofilia. Shortly after we made a right turn back to the seaside and Agkali. The holiday houses were so packed in that we had real trouble turning around. We decided that the place was not for us. Later we heard of the terrible fire in Greece when the fire tenders could not get through the narrow streets.
Time for coffee in Agios Anna. This was a simple working village with a coffee shop and nice, friendly chatty customers. We enjoyed that.
We tried another coastal village called Paralia Kotsikias. It was very pretty but Bessy would have half filled the sea front. Feeling that we were imposing on the village we had a coffee and left.
Once again we headed north, turned right to another village called Psaropouli. Here was a long beach and we parked at the southern end and Judit did a spot of sunbathing.
Back to the main road and turn right and through Strofilia. Shortly after we made a right turn back to the seaside and Agkali. The holiday houses were so packed in that we had real trouble turning around. We decided that the place was not for us. Later we heard of the terrible fire in Greece when the fire tenders could not get through the narrow streets.
Time for coffee in Agios Anna. This was a simple working village with a coffee shop and nice, friendly chatty customers. We enjoyed that.
We tried another coastal village called Paralia Kotsikias. It was very pretty but Bessy would have half filled the sea front. Feeling that we were imposing on the village we had a coffee and left.
Once again we headed north, turned right to another village called Psaropouli. Here was a long beach and we parked at the southern end and Judit did a spot of sunbathing.
Wednesday 23 May 2018
In the morning we drove to the other ends of the village where there was a harbour, tavernas and coffee shops. We had coffee and used the internet. The weather turned a bit gloomy and we even had a small shower of rain.
In the evening we walked to a taverna called Motel and Restaurant in the middle of the beach. Pork chops, Greek salad, glass of wine and a beer. We chatted for ages with the nice lady and her husband. He had been everywhere while in the merchant navy, including Canada. His English was excellent.
In the morning we drove to the other ends of the village where there was a harbour, tavernas and coffee shops. We had coffee and used the internet. The weather turned a bit gloomy and we even had a small shower of rain.
In the evening we walked to a taverna called Motel and Restaurant in the middle of the beach. Pork chops, Greek salad, glass of wine and a beer. We chatted for ages with the nice lady and her husband. He had been everywhere while in the merchant navy, including Canada. His English was excellent.
Nice view but…, 24 May 2018
Continuing the theme, we returned to the main road and turned right, then right again to the coast. The village of Aghios Nikolaos was said to be pretty. It wasn’t really. The usual story of so many people wanting to holiday in a nice place the village had been spoilt by blocks of holiday apartments. We walked to the sea front where the view was good as there is a small island with a church.
On we went and found ourselves at the campsite at Artemisio. Not open. So we drove along the seafront to Pefki. Stopping for a frappe is a good thing because the cafe owner told us we could park on the beach, under the trees opposite his cafe. We did.
Continuing the theme, we returned to the main road and turned right, then right again to the coast. The village of Aghios Nikolaos was said to be pretty. It wasn’t really. The usual story of so many people wanting to holiday in a nice place the village had been spoilt by blocks of holiday apartments. We walked to the sea front where the view was good as there is a small island with a church.
On we went and found ourselves at the campsite at Artemisio. Not open. So we drove along the seafront to Pefki. Stopping for a frappe is a good thing because the cafe owner told us we could park on the beach, under the trees opposite his cafe. We did.
Later in the day we walked to the far end of the seafront and found the harbour with very substantial fishing boats. The shops and cafes indicated that this was a seaside resort that Greeks prefer,
To thank the cafe owner we went for a meal. The menu was simple. We both had gyros, chips, salad and a glass of wine. Only €10.00 for both of us. The food was good, the amount was more than enough and the price was better than anywhere else we have visited.
To thank the cafe owner we went for a meal. The menu was simple. We both had gyros, chips, salad and a glass of wine. Only €10.00 for both of us. The food was good, the amount was more than enough and the price was better than anywhere else we have visited.
Ferry, Friday 25 May 2018
Our first stop in the morning was Istiaia (not a spelling mistake) where we withdrew cash with Ian’s Caxton card. The town is quite big and we stopped for another frappe in the main square. The town has a church bell that rings so loud it is out of all proportion to the town.
At Agiokampos we found the ferry to take us off the island. We had to wait one hour but the weather and the company was good. The crossing to Glifa took only 30 minutes. Within 20 minutes we were in our usual spot at Achilio. There was a Transit van parking under the trees and a yacht on a trolley.
The yacht belonged to Sikis who lives just across the road and we are well acquainted with him. He asked us to move a little because he was putting the boat in the water in the morning.
Our first stop in the morning was Istiaia (not a spelling mistake) where we withdrew cash with Ian’s Caxton card. The town is quite big and we stopped for another frappe in the main square. The town has a church bell that rings so loud it is out of all proportion to the town.
At Agiokampos we found the ferry to take us off the island. We had to wait one hour but the weather and the company was good. The crossing to Glifa took only 30 minutes. Within 20 minutes we were in our usual spot at Achilio. There was a Transit van parking under the trees and a yacht on a trolley.
The yacht belonged to Sikis who lives just across the road and we are well acquainted with him. He asked us to move a little because he was putting the boat in the water in the morning.
In the evening we walked around the village and noted that not a lot has changed in this village. While preparing dinner another acquaintance Dimitri called by with flowers for Judit. He was on his way to his sisters and returned just as we were finishing dinner. He had more flowers for Judit. What is going on I hear you thinking.
He has been around and speaks several languages. He even remembered some Hungarian.
When Dimitri had gone Alex, the van man, invited Ian to partake in home made Tsipouro. According to Ian it was smooth and very tasty. Alex said he took care what goes into the pot and distils the liqueur twice.
He has been around and speaks several languages. He even remembered some Hungarian.
When Dimitri had gone Alex, the van man, invited Ian to partake in home made Tsipouro. According to Ian it was smooth and very tasty. Alex said he took care what goes into the pot and distils the liqueur twice.
The launching, Saturday 26 May 2018
An early start today as Sikis was launching his yacht. A tractor driver attached a long steel pole to the rear of the trolley and the tractor then pushed the yacht into the sea. The whole process went very smoothly while Judit, Alex and Ian watched the proceedings.
When that adventure was over it was back to breakfast before starting north again. The nearest motorway was toll free in that section and we happily trundled along; stopping at Goodies for a “comfort break” as it seems to be known these days.
After turning off the motorway we drove around Volos and then stopped at Sikia Camping. It is built on a very steep slope but all the pitches are level. The camp was full of Germans and Nederlanders. It has a very small beach but the setting is very pleasant. Judit took advantage of the washing machines. There is an good cafe and shop and showers that are heated in winter… open all year round.
An early start today as Sikis was launching his yacht. A tractor driver attached a long steel pole to the rear of the trolley and the tractor then pushed the yacht into the sea. The whole process went very smoothly while Judit, Alex and Ian watched the proceedings.
When that adventure was over it was back to breakfast before starting north again. The nearest motorway was toll free in that section and we happily trundled along; stopping at Goodies for a “comfort break” as it seems to be known these days.
After turning off the motorway we drove around Volos and then stopped at Sikia Camping. It is built on a very steep slope but all the pitches are level. The camp was full of Germans and Nederlanders. It has a very small beach but the setting is very pleasant. Judit took advantage of the washing machines. There is an good cafe and shop and showers that are heated in winter… open all year round.
Back Track, Sunday 27 May 2018
In the morning we backtracked to the main motorway and continued north for a short distance. We turned off at Megalo Monastiri and headed for the coast again. The countryside is absolutely flat in this area and the roads are very straight before hitting the hills again where we passed through Aghia and down to the sea at Agiokampos. There we had a stroll along the promenade taking note that this is another holiday destination for Greeks. Lots of shops and cafes. One of them supplied us with frappes as the temperature was very warm.
We turned south to find one of PJ’s night stops at Kato Polydendri. It was a small pebble beach with lots of cars and six motorhomes, plus a small beach bar where we had a cool beer after a short swim.
In the morning we backtracked to the main motorway and continued north for a short distance. We turned off at Megalo Monastiri and headed for the coast again. The countryside is absolutely flat in this area and the roads are very straight before hitting the hills again where we passed through Aghia and down to the sea at Agiokampos. There we had a stroll along the promenade taking note that this is another holiday destination for Greeks. Lots of shops and cafes. One of them supplied us with frappes as the temperature was very warm.
We turned south to find one of PJ’s night stops at Kato Polydendri. It was a small pebble beach with lots of cars and six motorhomes, plus a small beach bar where we had a cool beer after a short swim.
Lost, Monday 28 May 2018
It was a peaceful night and we continued our journey northward. After following the coast for 26 kilometers we managed to miss the by-pass and went through the middle of Stomio. It was very narrow, don’t do it.
The plan was to enter the main motorway again but we found that the slip road was closed. Where now? Luckily a kind Greek family told us to follow them. It was not to where we wanted, but what the hell. We passed through Papapouli and stopped at Nei Pori which seems to be another favourite with the Greeks; and very pleasant too.
The town had a very wide sandy beach, lots of apartments and cafes. Lots of nice green grass. We stopped for a frappe again and watched the over-water parascending with interest. Ian was a paragliding instructor overland with ram-air canopies for many years and recognised the system of tow launching from the back of the boat rather than the beach. They were very efficient as well.
It was a peaceful night and we continued our journey northward. After following the coast for 26 kilometers we managed to miss the by-pass and went through the middle of Stomio. It was very narrow, don’t do it.
The plan was to enter the main motorway again but we found that the slip road was closed. Where now? Luckily a kind Greek family told us to follow them. It was not to where we wanted, but what the hell. We passed through Papapouli and stopped at Nei Pori which seems to be another favourite with the Greeks; and very pleasant too.
The town had a very wide sandy beach, lots of apartments and cafes. Lots of nice green grass. We stopped for a frappe again and watched the over-water parascending with interest. Ian was a paragliding instructor overland with ram-air canopies for many years and recognised the system of tow launching from the back of the boat rather than the beach. They were very efficient as well.
We needed an ATM and were told the nearest was in Platamon. Not too far away but we realised that this particular day was a Bank Holiday. The place was packed and we had to park at the north end of the town and walk back. The streets were packed with cars and people and the sand on the small beach was hidden by people sunbathing and swimming. Once again the temperature was very hot. Nevertheless we found the ATM then stopped in a cafe for gyros. Good but not as good as the ones in Pylos.
Still feeling hot we stopped at an ice cream parlour on the way back to Bessy and then we continued north to find a night stop. We had been to one before at Leptokaria but the road was packed with cars so we found a new one just off the beach and under a shade tree. It was not ideal as holiday makers were walking past all the time. But as usual, everyone was friendly and we were relaxed as well. In the morning we saw a sign stating that camping was not allowed.
Still feeling hot we stopped at an ice cream parlour on the way back to Bessy and then we continued north to find a night stop. We had been to one before at Leptokaria but the road was packed with cars so we found a new one just off the beach and under a shade tree. It was not ideal as holiday makers were walking past all the time. But as usual, everyone was friendly and we were relaxed as well. In the morning we saw a sign stating that camping was not allowed.
Found, Tuesday 29 May 2018
During the night the wind and a small shower had stripped the fluffy seeds from the tree; there was fluff everywhere.
The paying motorway was not far away and we took it towards Thessaloniki. The area here is very flat and there are lots of paddy fields. It was sensible to take the ring road around the city and continue north in the direction of Serres. However we turned off the road at Stryminiko towards Kerkini. The village was having a face lift with a cobbled central square. After a small shopping stop we drove to one of our favourite places, Elodia Taverna.
Strangely the place was deserted but we parked and sat in the shade watching the local bird life. After about two hours Christa arrived and was very pleased to see us. She is working too hard and seems to have lost some weight. She confirmed that yesterday had been a Bank Holiday and the taverna had been very busy. She was having a well deserved break today.
During the night the wind and a small shower had stripped the fluffy seeds from the tree; there was fluff everywhere.
The paying motorway was not far away and we took it towards Thessaloniki. The area here is very flat and there are lots of paddy fields. It was sensible to take the ring road around the city and continue north in the direction of Serres. However we turned off the road at Stryminiko towards Kerkini. The village was having a face lift with a cobbled central square. After a small shopping stop we drove to one of our favourite places, Elodia Taverna.
Strangely the place was deserted but we parked and sat in the shade watching the local bird life. After about two hours Christa arrived and was very pleased to see us. She is working too hard and seems to have lost some weight. She confirmed that yesterday had been a Bank Holiday and the taverna had been very busy. She was having a well deserved break today.
Buffalo Moussaka, Wednesday 30 May 2018
In the morning we drove to the nearby town of Rodopoli where we needed another ATM. There was a market and clearly people had come from all over the buy from the market and to sit around and chat with old friends. So we meandered through the market. It was selling clothes, shoes, handbags and fresh vegetables. The whole town had a friendly “original” feel to it; we enjoyed it.
Back at Elodia, Christi and the girls arrived and we enjoyed a friendly get together. In the evening Christi made us buffalo moussaka. Perfect. Christi’s husband arrived later and we were interested to hear of his latest project. He is building a small church in the grounds of the taverna, plus a stable for two horses and a donkey. One of the resident deer is pregnant so next year there will be a “Bambi”.
We gave the girls some tin boxes of fudge from Yorkshire and in return we were presented with a jar of homemade wild plum and a lovely container for biscuits.
In the morning we drove to the nearby town of Rodopoli where we needed another ATM. There was a market and clearly people had come from all over the buy from the market and to sit around and chat with old friends. So we meandered through the market. It was selling clothes, shoes, handbags and fresh vegetables. The whole town had a friendly “original” feel to it; we enjoyed it.
Back at Elodia, Christi and the girls arrived and we enjoyed a friendly get together. In the evening Christi made us buffalo moussaka. Perfect. Christi’s husband arrived later and we were interested to hear of his latest project. He is building a small church in the grounds of the taverna, plus a stable for two horses and a donkey. One of the resident deer is pregnant so next year there will be a “Bambi”.
We gave the girls some tin boxes of fudge from Yorkshire and in return we were presented with a jar of homemade wild plum and a lovely container for biscuits.
Bulgaria beckons, Thursday 31 May 2018
In the morning we waited until Christi arrived so that we could say goodbye. She will be busy again as they are expecting 120 children. Good Luck. We left before they arrived and stopped at the next village of Livadia for diesel. The young lady serving was exceedingly pleasant and made us feel welcome… nice.
Back to Rodopoli for more cash and then we drove to the Bulgarian border. It was interesting to see the Customs men having a really good nose around two cars driven by suspicious looking Italians. But we had to leave before they were arrested. Just down the road we stopped at a filling station and bought a motorway ticket, €8.00 for one week. The road after the border was very busy and there we saw the first accident for several months. The motorway is being extended from Sofia to the Greek border, but still not finished.
About six kilometers north of Kresna we stopped for lunch in a nice gorge next to a river. Another 70 kilometer later we were at Bor Camp near Rila Monastery. On the road up to the monastery we saw two or three rock falls onto the newly surfaced road, even some fallen trees.
The camp was quite busy and only the old boy was in charge. He seemed to remember us and let us get on with finding a level spot… there are not many. Judit walked around and took a few photos while Ian had a rest from driving.
In the morning we waited until Christi arrived so that we could say goodbye. She will be busy again as they are expecting 120 children. Good Luck. We left before they arrived and stopped at the next village of Livadia for diesel. The young lady serving was exceedingly pleasant and made us feel welcome… nice.
Back to Rodopoli for more cash and then we drove to the Bulgarian border. It was interesting to see the Customs men having a really good nose around two cars driven by suspicious looking Italians. But we had to leave before they were arrested. Just down the road we stopped at a filling station and bought a motorway ticket, €8.00 for one week. The road after the border was very busy and there we saw the first accident for several months. The motorway is being extended from Sofia to the Greek border, but still not finished.
About six kilometers north of Kresna we stopped for lunch in a nice gorge next to a river. Another 70 kilometer later we were at Bor Camp near Rila Monastery. On the road up to the monastery we saw two or three rock falls onto the newly surfaced road, even some fallen trees.
The camp was quite busy and only the old boy was in charge. He seemed to remember us and let us get on with finding a level spot… there are not many. Judit walked around and took a few photos while Ian had a rest from driving.
Cold, Friday 1 June 2018
In the morning the temperature inside Bessy was 10°C; quite a change from a few days ago. Not surprising as the camp is 1,200 meters (nearly 4,000 feet) above sea level. Just as we were leaving the boss ran up to us and presented Ian with a bottle of Bulgarian beer. He must remember us… how nice.
Another surprise today was in Sofia. The ring road is finished. Getting onto the road to Serbia took minutes.
Just before the border we stopped for a “Coffee and Comfort” as we now call it. We actually call it a “C&C”. That turned out to be a good decision because crossing the two borders took over one hour. The major problem at this border is that the “kiosks” for the officials are too close together. It really is a problem for a motorhome to get through. Once inside the road was pretty good. There were a few places where we had to use small roads because the motorway is not quite finished, but they are working on it. And the mountain road was interesting.
As we did last year, we stopped at Aleksander Service Station. It really is one of the better service stations in that part of the world. Parking is easy, the staff are friendly and helpful, they have internet and the restaurant produces some excellent food. Judit did not order the foot long sausages. Last year she had 10 on her plate! Instead we had a local dish with an unpronounceable name which was ham stuffed with cheese and mushrooms fried with a thin batter.
In the morning the temperature inside Bessy was 10°C; quite a change from a few days ago. Not surprising as the camp is 1,200 meters (nearly 4,000 feet) above sea level. Just as we were leaving the boss ran up to us and presented Ian with a bottle of Bulgarian beer. He must remember us… how nice.
Another surprise today was in Sofia. The ring road is finished. Getting onto the road to Serbia took minutes.
Just before the border we stopped for a “Coffee and Comfort” as we now call it. We actually call it a “C&C”. That turned out to be a good decision because crossing the two borders took over one hour. The major problem at this border is that the “kiosks” for the officials are too close together. It really is a problem for a motorhome to get through. Once inside the road was pretty good. There were a few places where we had to use small roads because the motorway is not quite finished, but they are working on it. And the mountain road was interesting.
As we did last year, we stopped at Aleksander Service Station. It really is one of the better service stations in that part of the world. Parking is easy, the staff are friendly and helpful, they have internet and the restaurant produces some excellent food. Judit did not order the foot long sausages. Last year she had 10 on her plate! Instead we had a local dish with an unpronounceable name which was ham stuffed with cheese and mushrooms fried with a thin batter.
Hungary, Saturday 2 June 2018
Today we had a long drive. The border with Hungary was not difficult. The Border Police had a quick look inside Bessy and we were on our way, then we drove through Bácsalmás, Baja, Szekszárd, Mezöszilas and Enying to Balatonalmadi and the lake. Phew.
While in Hungary we spent some time visiting Judit’s family and friends. We also went to Budapest once or twice to try and sort out the Mac problem. In brief they said they could not do anything because the Mac was too old. We’ll try again with an independent repair man.
After living for 20 years in Hungary you would think we’ve been to most places. Not true. Just across the lake from us is Siofok and the only time we were there was when we took our sailing licence examination. Then all we saw was the harbour and the inside of an office.
Well, we took Bessy to the Fiat dealer in Siofok for a major service and a pre-MOT check… it’s much cheaper than having it done in the UK. Naturally we had to wait around for completion. So we went for a walk around Siofok. It’s really quite nice in a “Blackpooly” sort of way. There are cafe and restaurants most places and the lakeside has a lovely park.
The harbour deserves a special mention. It has been tidied up and it’s fun to watch the goings on. There are several boats taking people for a run around the bay and there are water buses that will take you to several places around the lake. Remember that Lake Balaton is around 77 kilometers long and about 12 kilometers at it’s widest.
So after a good lunch at Mustafa’s cafe we took a ride on a pirate ship. It sounds a bit naff but it was good fun. Some of the crew were dressed in pirate rig and entertained the children. The captain also thrilled them by allowing kids to steer the ship. We were entertained watching the children look for pirate treasure hidden around the ship. That meant we had to stand now and again so they could look under our seats. And we had another view of the Balaton region. Worth a trip.
And Bessy really was given the works as they found a couple of lamps were not working. Eventually problems were solved after a bit of overtime.
Today we had a long drive. The border with Hungary was not difficult. The Border Police had a quick look inside Bessy and we were on our way, then we drove through Bácsalmás, Baja, Szekszárd, Mezöszilas and Enying to Balatonalmadi and the lake. Phew.
While in Hungary we spent some time visiting Judit’s family and friends. We also went to Budapest once or twice to try and sort out the Mac problem. In brief they said they could not do anything because the Mac was too old. We’ll try again with an independent repair man.
After living for 20 years in Hungary you would think we’ve been to most places. Not true. Just across the lake from us is Siofok and the only time we were there was when we took our sailing licence examination. Then all we saw was the harbour and the inside of an office.
Well, we took Bessy to the Fiat dealer in Siofok for a major service and a pre-MOT check… it’s much cheaper than having it done in the UK. Naturally we had to wait around for completion. So we went for a walk around Siofok. It’s really quite nice in a “Blackpooly” sort of way. There are cafe and restaurants most places and the lakeside has a lovely park.
The harbour deserves a special mention. It has been tidied up and it’s fun to watch the goings on. There are several boats taking people for a run around the bay and there are water buses that will take you to several places around the lake. Remember that Lake Balaton is around 77 kilometers long and about 12 kilometers at it’s widest.
So after a good lunch at Mustafa’s cafe we took a ride on a pirate ship. It sounds a bit naff but it was good fun. Some of the crew were dressed in pirate rig and entertained the children. The captain also thrilled them by allowing kids to steer the ship. We were entertained watching the children look for pirate treasure hidden around the ship. That meant we had to stand now and again so they could look under our seats. And we had another view of the Balaton region. Worth a trip.
And Bessy really was given the works as they found a couple of lamps were not working. Eventually problems were solved after a bit of overtime.
Austria and Germany, Monday 30 July 2018
Time to make a move. We are planning to visit our good friends in Friesland on our way home. That means crossing Austria where they have strict laws that any vehicle over 3.5 tons must buy a “Go Box” and pay for motorways that way. In other words crossing Austria by motorway will cost over €100 on top of fuel. Well Mr Austria you have lost quite a few fans of your beautiful country. Bessy weighs 3.8 ton and that means we tourists are treated like lorries and buses. They can pass on the costs to customers but genuine tourists cannot. If you are found not to have a Go Box the fine is €240 on the spot.
Solution: take the small roads. It may take longer but is more picturesque. If you are a tourist over 3.5 ton give Austria a miss.
We took the small roads and stopped at a Stelplatz in Liezen for one night and it was free.
Next day we approached the border with Germany and then began a series of holdups. We were over one hour in a queue at the border because two policemen were eyeballing every vehicle that went past. Clearly they think they have enough immigrants in Germany.
Anyway, we were now able to use non-toll autobahn. But for on the journey to Nederland we were held up with roadworks about every 50 kilometer. And, being the hottest day ever in Germany, the trip was a nightmare.
Our first attempt at finding a Stelplatz was at Hochstadt and Gremsdorf. One place was absolutely packed with cars and the other was no more than a few square meters on a crossroad. So back to the autobahn where eventually we found a Truck Stop at Schlüsselfeld. It was not very big but they certainly packed everyone in.
Our neighbour from Bulgaria was driving a large lorry. He turned out to be a really nice lad. He was telling us that his job was to drive loads from Bulgaria and then stay in Northern Europe trucking between Germany and France… and he’d been doing this for 3 months. Not only was he living in the cab he was also missing his family. What a life. We shared a beer.
The Truck Stop had a Burger King where we ate our supper. To be honest this Burger King was a bit of a dump and the boss lady was the fattest person we had ever seen. We know who ate all the left over burgers.
In the morning we were surprised that all the lorries had left… we never heard a thing. Back to the autobahn and the roadworks again. By tea time we were in Heerenveen at the camp Albert had suggested and to our delight they were there waiting for us. It was good to see them again.
Time to make a move. We are planning to visit our good friends in Friesland on our way home. That means crossing Austria where they have strict laws that any vehicle over 3.5 tons must buy a “Go Box” and pay for motorways that way. In other words crossing Austria by motorway will cost over €100 on top of fuel. Well Mr Austria you have lost quite a few fans of your beautiful country. Bessy weighs 3.8 ton and that means we tourists are treated like lorries and buses. They can pass on the costs to customers but genuine tourists cannot. If you are found not to have a Go Box the fine is €240 on the spot.
Solution: take the small roads. It may take longer but is more picturesque. If you are a tourist over 3.5 ton give Austria a miss.
We took the small roads and stopped at a Stelplatz in Liezen for one night and it was free.
Next day we approached the border with Germany and then began a series of holdups. We were over one hour in a queue at the border because two policemen were eyeballing every vehicle that went past. Clearly they think they have enough immigrants in Germany.
Anyway, we were now able to use non-toll autobahn. But for on the journey to Nederland we were held up with roadworks about every 50 kilometer. And, being the hottest day ever in Germany, the trip was a nightmare.
Our first attempt at finding a Stelplatz was at Hochstadt and Gremsdorf. One place was absolutely packed with cars and the other was no more than a few square meters on a crossroad. So back to the autobahn where eventually we found a Truck Stop at Schlüsselfeld. It was not very big but they certainly packed everyone in.
Our neighbour from Bulgaria was driving a large lorry. He turned out to be a really nice lad. He was telling us that his job was to drive loads from Bulgaria and then stay in Northern Europe trucking between Germany and France… and he’d been doing this for 3 months. Not only was he living in the cab he was also missing his family. What a life. We shared a beer.
The Truck Stop had a Burger King where we ate our supper. To be honest this Burger King was a bit of a dump and the boss lady was the fattest person we had ever seen. We know who ate all the left over burgers.
In the morning we were surprised that all the lorries had left… we never heard a thing. Back to the autobahn and the roadworks again. By tea time we were in Heerenveen at the camp Albert had suggested and to our delight they were there waiting for us. It was good to see them again.
Friesland, 4 August 2018
Albert and Gaby were the perfect hosts and they showed us the local area. Our first run was to Lemmer on the Ijsselmeer. Another day we went across the water, on a dijk of course, to the delightful town of Enkhuizen. The return was across the inland sea on the famous Afsluitdijk. The Afsluitdijk is the major causeway in the Netherlands, constructed between 1927 and 1932 and running from Den Oever on Wieringen in North Holland province, to the village of Zurich in Friesland province, over a length of 32 kilometres (20 mi) and a width of 90 metres (300 ft), at an initial height of 7.25 metres (23.8 ft) above sea level.
It dams off the Zuiderzee, a salt water inlet of the North Sea, and turned it into the fresh water lake of the Ijsselmeer. It is very impressive.
Albert and Gaby were the perfect hosts and they showed us the local area. Our first run was to Lemmer on the Ijsselmeer. Another day we went across the water, on a dijk of course, to the delightful town of Enkhuizen. The return was across the inland sea on the famous Afsluitdijk. The Afsluitdijk is the major causeway in the Netherlands, constructed between 1927 and 1932 and running from Den Oever on Wieringen in North Holland province, to the village of Zurich in Friesland province, over a length of 32 kilometres (20 mi) and a width of 90 metres (300 ft), at an initial height of 7.25 metres (23.8 ft) above sea level.
It dams off the Zuiderzee, a salt water inlet of the North Sea, and turned it into the fresh water lake of the Ijsselmeer. It is very impressive.
Naturally we visited Urk where Albert used to keep his ship when he ferried people around the inland sea and beyond. There is a very touching reminder of the dangers of the sea. The walls enclosing a square are covered in hundreds of names of local fishermen who lost their lives at sea.
Gaby does not speak much English and Judit had problems trying to understand everything. Now and again there was a shout of “Ian, help”. Normally Judit would be translating from Hungarian for Ian but now it was Ian doing Dutch to English. Good fun.
Gaby does not speak much English and Judit had problems trying to understand everything. Now and again there was a shout of “Ian, help”. Normally Judit would be translating from Hungarian for Ian but now it was Ian doing Dutch to English. Good fun.
We enjoyed the food, especially the loempias and the fish and chips called Kibbeling. It was served with a mayonnaise-based garlic sauce or tartar sauce. Basically it was small pieces of fish in batter. Lovely.
We also ate a wonderful selection from the local “chippy”. There was kroket, a thick roux with meat in breadcrumbs. A similar dish was bitterballen. Then we had gehaktbal a pork meatball coated in breadcrumbs and of course wonderful crisp frites. Why do English chip shops sell soggy chips.
We had a great time in Friesland and we can recommend the area for a visit.
Thanks for everything Albert and Gaby.
We also ate a wonderful selection from the local “chippy”. There was kroket, a thick roux with meat in breadcrumbs. A similar dish was bitterballen. Then we had gehaktbal a pork meatball coated in breadcrumbs and of course wonderful crisp frites. Why do English chip shops sell soggy chips.
We had a great time in Friesland and we can recommend the area for a visit.
Thanks for everything Albert and Gaby.
Calais next stop
The original plan was to cross the North Sea from Rotterdam to Hull. The winter price was about £150.00 but the Summer price shot up to £680.00. Sorry P&O but you are not getting our business. That is just greedy.
Instead we booked a crossing from Calais to Dover. The drive to Calais was quite easy. We passed Lelystad, named after the afsluitdijk designer. On past Hilversum, Utrecht, Breda, Antwerp, Ghent and Ostend.
We had to use the new Aire at Calais because another possible car park was packed with cars.
The ferry in the morning was prompt and comfortable and we were soon at Tesco filling station in Dover before hitting the Dartford Crossing. The idiots who brought in the new paying system said that everything would be smoother… wrong. We were queueing at least another hour before we got to the tunnels. And the misery continued at Alconbury with another roadworks. At least it was not as bad as Germany.
Our final stop was with our friend Pat, who had visited us in Finikunda. Thanks Pat for the chance to slow down and relax for an evening. We really felt to be at home.
Only another two hours before we were really home again.
The original plan was to cross the North Sea from Rotterdam to Hull. The winter price was about £150.00 but the Summer price shot up to £680.00. Sorry P&O but you are not getting our business. That is just greedy.
Instead we booked a crossing from Calais to Dover. The drive to Calais was quite easy. We passed Lelystad, named after the afsluitdijk designer. On past Hilversum, Utrecht, Breda, Antwerp, Ghent and Ostend.
We had to use the new Aire at Calais because another possible car park was packed with cars.
The ferry in the morning was prompt and comfortable and we were soon at Tesco filling station in Dover before hitting the Dartford Crossing. The idiots who brought in the new paying system said that everything would be smoother… wrong. We were queueing at least another hour before we got to the tunnels. And the misery continued at Alconbury with another roadworks. At least it was not as bad as Germany.
Our final stop was with our friend Pat, who had visited us in Finikunda. Thanks Pat for the chance to slow down and relax for an evening. We really felt to be at home.
Only another two hours before we were really home again.