Portugal 2013
Friday 6 December 2013
The Empire
Did you know that Katherine of Braganca married Charles II of England and in gratitude boosted the Empire by gifting Bombay to him? Good lass.
The fort is small but nicely formed and worth a stroll up the hill. There are houses inside and the odd cafe or two.
Then started another day of SatNav confusion. The motorway to Porto was obviously drawn into the SatNav before the road was finished. Poor old Jane got her knickers in a real twist trying to keep us on the right path.
But the route was fantastic with lovely views and some serious hills. One descent caused our ears to pop four times. Now that’s a hill!
The countryside quickly filled up with houses as we neared Porto. We found ourselves on a toll road, but what the hell. Jane needed a rest.
The Aire in Porto is in the car park of a sort of up-market city farm with beautiful gardens and woodland where the local kids can find out that milk comes from a cow and not from a supermarket. Interestingly there is a giant statue of a brachiosaurus at the entrance.
If we had stayed the night we should have had to pay €12. Instead we went to LIDL for fresh milk. Sadly there is no fresh milk in Porto... maybe milk does come from supermarkets.
We bought some beef and we’ll be having a beef pörkölt tonight, which is a type of Hungarian stew.
Back on the main road Jane directed us to the coast for some reason. We drove several miles along lumpy roads at 20 kph before we made our own way back to the highway.
The motorway is supposed to be toll free but we passed under several gantries with cameras and detectors. Why?
Finally we turned off and drove over a large lagoon before stopping in an Aire in Vagos just in time to see the sun setting on the sea... at last.
The Empire
Did you know that Katherine of Braganca married Charles II of England and in gratitude boosted the Empire by gifting Bombay to him? Good lass.
The fort is small but nicely formed and worth a stroll up the hill. There are houses inside and the odd cafe or two.
Then started another day of SatNav confusion. The motorway to Porto was obviously drawn into the SatNav before the road was finished. Poor old Jane got her knickers in a real twist trying to keep us on the right path.
But the route was fantastic with lovely views and some serious hills. One descent caused our ears to pop four times. Now that’s a hill!
The countryside quickly filled up with houses as we neared Porto. We found ourselves on a toll road, but what the hell. Jane needed a rest.
The Aire in Porto is in the car park of a sort of up-market city farm with beautiful gardens and woodland where the local kids can find out that milk comes from a cow and not from a supermarket. Interestingly there is a giant statue of a brachiosaurus at the entrance.
If we had stayed the night we should have had to pay €12. Instead we went to LIDL for fresh milk. Sadly there is no fresh milk in Porto... maybe milk does come from supermarkets.
We bought some beef and we’ll be having a beef pörkölt tonight, which is a type of Hungarian stew.
Back on the main road Jane directed us to the coast for some reason. We drove several miles along lumpy roads at 20 kph before we made our own way back to the highway.
The motorway is supposed to be toll free but we passed under several gantries with cameras and detectors. Why?
Finally we turned off and drove over a large lagoon before stopping in an Aire in Vagos just in time to see the sun setting on the sea... at last.
Saturday 7 December 2013
Internet again
The delightful Kika found us having a free coffee in the surfers’ bar while watching the sea and the dunes. She was very kind and allowed us to use her internet in reception. We heard of the poverty that is rife in Portugal. She tells us that many people live in houses with dirt floors. She knows of a family with 6 kids. Husband is crippled and wheelchair bound and the wife gets a pension of only €300 a month. On that she has to care for everyone. The kids cannot go to school and have no books. Well done you politicians... and so you should be.
She also explaind the strange gantries over the free motorway. It is a sort of toll system. You must buy a card, but no one knows where to buy them, maybe in the Post Office in Lisbon. This brings back memories of Poland. Why are politicians so stupid?
Today we took the toll road. This has no gantries but does have a proper toll booth and a ticket dispenser. Can they not get their act together?
The ride was lovely and we even rolled up our sleeves in the sunshine. Like Spain, Portugal seems to like building motorways. It was so quiet we even started counting cars. On the 80 km route we saw zero lorries, and cars were only 2 per kilometer.
Not quite like the M25 then!
Around 14-00 we pulled in to the first open campsite we’ve seen since leaving the UK. Sadly the wifi only works in the TV room but what the hell. We managed to get through to Jo and family but Richard was on answerphone. But we have sorted out the text for the website and tomorrow we’ll have a concerted efforts at it.
But if the evening’s session is to go by we’ll have problems as the signal drops every few minutes. If you are reading this, please think of us.
The next day was spent in doing nothing more than updating the website. Hurrah.
Internet again
The delightful Kika found us having a free coffee in the surfers’ bar while watching the sea and the dunes. She was very kind and allowed us to use her internet in reception. We heard of the poverty that is rife in Portugal. She tells us that many people live in houses with dirt floors. She knows of a family with 6 kids. Husband is crippled and wheelchair bound and the wife gets a pension of only €300 a month. On that she has to care for everyone. The kids cannot go to school and have no books. Well done you politicians... and so you should be.
She also explaind the strange gantries over the free motorway. It is a sort of toll system. You must buy a card, but no one knows where to buy them, maybe in the Post Office in Lisbon. This brings back memories of Poland. Why are politicians so stupid?
Today we took the toll road. This has no gantries but does have a proper toll booth and a ticket dispenser. Can they not get their act together?
The ride was lovely and we even rolled up our sleeves in the sunshine. Like Spain, Portugal seems to like building motorways. It was so quiet we even started counting cars. On the 80 km route we saw zero lorries, and cars were only 2 per kilometer.
Not quite like the M25 then!
Around 14-00 we pulled in to the first open campsite we’ve seen since leaving the UK. Sadly the wifi only works in the TV room but what the hell. We managed to get through to Jo and family but Richard was on answerphone. But we have sorted out the text for the website and tomorrow we’ll have a concerted efforts at it.
But if the evening’s session is to go by we’ll have problems as the signal drops every few minutes. If you are reading this, please think of us.
The next day was spent in doing nothing more than updating the website. Hurrah.
Monday 9 December 2013
To toll or not to toll
After a quick check for any emails we left the camp and drove into Nazare. The campsite is not ideal for a beach holiday as it is a good 3 km from the shore. The town itself is quite dull and built mainly of white concrete boxes with no charm at all. It looks like these places are where Northern Europeans disappear to their home by the sea. The beach looked good and there is a funicular railway up the side of a cliff.
But we tried our first Portuguese supermarket called Pingo Dolce. Does it mean Sweet Penguin? We settled for a pre-cooked chicken which the lady brushed all over with piquant sauces. We could have bought a ton of smelly salted cod. Maybe we’ll try it later. A nice lady explained that you must soak it in running water overnight, allow it to dry out a bit and then treat it as fish. It seems a real hassle.
The town of Obidos was not far away. It is medieval and has its own castle. The authorities have refused permission to build anything new and the place is very attractive. As can be expected the lower streets are full of shops selling tourist tat and a few cafes. We tried a chocolate tart and a very tasty almond tart.
After the delights of Obidos we set off on a longish run to find a Don Madge wild spot. On the way it became very clear that toll roads are stupid because the village roads were packed with trucks while the parallel toll road was almost empty. But the route was pleasant. As we rounded Lisboa we saw many cork oak trees that had been expertly stripped of their bark. According to a local the cork industry is in decline because wine makers are finding that synthetic corks work better.
The final 20 km or so was a surprise as we passed Portugal’s oil refinery and power station. Very industrial and the roads were pretty bad as well. To be fair these are the first really bad roads we’ve encountered so far.
Don’s Night Stop on a cliff top was blocked off but there was a car park a hundred yards away so there we were in Porto Covo for the night. Nearby the village looked like it had been built for holidays.
To toll or not to toll
After a quick check for any emails we left the camp and drove into Nazare. The campsite is not ideal for a beach holiday as it is a good 3 km from the shore. The town itself is quite dull and built mainly of white concrete boxes with no charm at all. It looks like these places are where Northern Europeans disappear to their home by the sea. The beach looked good and there is a funicular railway up the side of a cliff.
But we tried our first Portuguese supermarket called Pingo Dolce. Does it mean Sweet Penguin? We settled for a pre-cooked chicken which the lady brushed all over with piquant sauces. We could have bought a ton of smelly salted cod. Maybe we’ll try it later. A nice lady explained that you must soak it in running water overnight, allow it to dry out a bit and then treat it as fish. It seems a real hassle.
The town of Obidos was not far away. It is medieval and has its own castle. The authorities have refused permission to build anything new and the place is very attractive. As can be expected the lower streets are full of shops selling tourist tat and a few cafes. We tried a chocolate tart and a very tasty almond tart.
After the delights of Obidos we set off on a longish run to find a Don Madge wild spot. On the way it became very clear that toll roads are stupid because the village roads were packed with trucks while the parallel toll road was almost empty. But the route was pleasant. As we rounded Lisboa we saw many cork oak trees that had been expertly stripped of their bark. According to a local the cork industry is in decline because wine makers are finding that synthetic corks work better.
The final 20 km or so was a surprise as we passed Portugal’s oil refinery and power station. Very industrial and the roads were pretty bad as well. To be fair these are the first really bad roads we’ve encountered so far.
Don’s Night Stop on a cliff top was blocked off but there was a car park a hundred yards away so there we were in Porto Covo for the night. Nearby the village looked like it had been built for holidays.
Tuesday 10 December 2013
Not Nigeria
Once again a longish drive south where we stopped at a camp called Turiscamp outside of Lagos. It’s very smart and well equipped but the pricing is damned complicated according to how many people, how much electric, do you have a dog, what is your inside leg, etc, and wifi is charged.
During the evening the wifi was up and down like Jacob’s trousers and then the electric went off. Ian had to search the camp for a nightwatchman who came and unlocked the hook-up cupboards so that he could flick the trip switch, which we could have done ourselves if it had been unlocked.
Not Nigeria
Once again a longish drive south where we stopped at a camp called Turiscamp outside of Lagos. It’s very smart and well equipped but the pricing is damned complicated according to how many people, how much electric, do you have a dog, what is your inside leg, etc, and wifi is charged.
During the evening the wifi was up and down like Jacob’s trousers and then the electric went off. Ian had to search the camp for a nightwatchman who came and unlocked the hook-up cupboards so that he could flick the trip switch, which we could have done ourselves if it had been unlocked.
Wednesday 11 December 2013
More poor camps
We had enough of unstable wifi and headed west. On the way we stopped at Salema Camp run by a Dutch lady. Nice setting but in a very deep valley with very steep entrance roads. The sun will probably never penetrate the valley and the trees. Wifi only in reception an another very complex price structure. We calculated that one night would cost us €22. Electricity charge depends on usage. Nearest beach is 1.5 km away past the naturist end of the camp. Only one motorhome on the massive site.
We left.
Near Sagres we found Oribitur Sagres camp. Only certain areas had electricity and wifi is in the closed restaurant, but you can sit outside. As the weather was blowing a gale and overcast, and the beach is 2.5 km away we moved on again.
Ian was getting very xxxxxx-off as we came to the coast to be by the sea.
More poor camps
We had enough of unstable wifi and headed west. On the way we stopped at Salema Camp run by a Dutch lady. Nice setting but in a very deep valley with very steep entrance roads. The sun will probably never penetrate the valley and the trees. Wifi only in reception an another very complex price structure. We calculated that one night would cost us €22. Electricity charge depends on usage. Nearest beach is 1.5 km away past the naturist end of the camp. Only one motorhome on the massive site.
We left.
Near Sagres we found Oribitur Sagres camp. Only certain areas had electricity and wifi is in the closed restaurant, but you can sit outside. As the weather was blowing a gale and overcast, and the beach is 2.5 km away we moved on again.
Ian was getting very xxxxxx-off as we came to the coast to be by the sea.
End of the world
Only a few kilometers north was Cape St Vincent which is a landmark for a ship traveling to or from the Mediterranean.The cliffs rise nearly vertically from the Atlantic to a height of 75 meters.
The ancients believed the sun sank here hissing into the ocean, marking the edge of their world.
It is not surprising when the rough deserted land around is being lashed by rain in a gale and Atlantic rollers are crashing against the base of the cliffs.
It has been the scene of many Naval battles, including In 1780 the Battle of Cape St. Vincent between a British fleet under Admiral Sir George Rodney over a Spanish Squadron.
The lighthouse is one of the most powerful in Europe and its two 1,000 W lamps can be seen as far as 60 kilometers (37 miles) away.
Only a few kilometers north was Cape St Vincent which is a landmark for a ship traveling to or from the Mediterranean.The cliffs rise nearly vertically from the Atlantic to a height of 75 meters.
The ancients believed the sun sank here hissing into the ocean, marking the edge of their world.
It is not surprising when the rough deserted land around is being lashed by rain in a gale and Atlantic rollers are crashing against the base of the cliffs.
It has been the scene of many Naval battles, including In 1780 the Battle of Cape St. Vincent between a British fleet under Admiral Sir George Rodney over a Spanish Squadron.
The lighthouse is one of the most powerful in Europe and its two 1,000 W lamps can be seen as far as 60 kilometers (37 miles) away.
A few kilometers south is Sagres where there are the remains of a fort. For €1.5 each it’s worth a meander around. Inside is a massive compass rose built into the ground. It looks like a compass rose for training mariners but some theories dispute that.
Near the fort is a massive cobbled car park where we met a lovely couple, Jeff and Francis. They joined us for coffee and we had a long natter about motorhomes, sites and Land Rovers. In the evening we joined them in their MH and spent an excellent evening nattering and demolishing Jeff’s whisky. At last a bit of reality.
Near the fort is a massive cobbled car park where we met a lovely couple, Jeff and Francis. They joined us for coffee and we had a long natter about motorhomes, sites and Land Rovers. In the evening we joined them in their MH and spent an excellent evening nattering and demolishing Jeff’s whisky. At last a bit of reality.
Thursday 12 December 2012
Lagos again
We left our new friends in Sagres car park and attempted to have a look at a couple of seaside villages on the way back to Lagos. The first place was Burgau but it was once again a collection of modern homes for holiday makers. There is a beach but the roads were narrow and congested with parked cars so we moved on to Luz. Same again.
Lagos here we come, and there waiting for us in the Aire were Jeff and Francis.
After dumping and filling we had a pleasant but confusing walk to the old town. Confusing because one of the bridges was closed and we had to detour round the marina, packed with luxury yachts.
In the evening we had a repeat session with Jeff and Francis and got to bed around 02-00. Dirty stop outs.
Lagos again
We left our new friends in Sagres car park and attempted to have a look at a couple of seaside villages on the way back to Lagos. The first place was Burgau but it was once again a collection of modern homes for holiday makers. There is a beach but the roads were narrow and congested with parked cars so we moved on to Luz. Same again.
Lagos here we come, and there waiting for us in the Aire were Jeff and Francis.
After dumping and filling we had a pleasant but confusing walk to the old town. Confusing because one of the bridges was closed and we had to detour round the marina, packed with luxury yachts.
In the evening we had a repeat session with Jeff and Francis and got to bed around 02-00. Dirty stop outs.
Friday 13 December 2013
A camp again
A late morning visit to Pingo Dolce and off to see the delights of Portimao. It may be a delight but the narrow maze of streets and one way streets drove us crazy. It’s a large town and chaotic. Plus the usual high rises.
We ate the last of our Portuguese pies for lunch (not a match for a spinach and feta pie by the way) and eventually found the bridge across the river to Ferragudo. That was nice enough but the road was closed by a large tent. Frustration.
In Armacao de Pera there was nothing else but high rise flats but there was a campsite only1 km from the sea. Once again a highly complex price list and then the killer... wifi only in reception. Sod it.
Just up the road we came across Canelas camping. A normal pricing structure, free wifi around the camp and only €11 a night. We stopped.
A camp again
A late morning visit to Pingo Dolce and off to see the delights of Portimao. It may be a delight but the narrow maze of streets and one way streets drove us crazy. It’s a large town and chaotic. Plus the usual high rises.
We ate the last of our Portuguese pies for lunch (not a match for a spinach and feta pie by the way) and eventually found the bridge across the river to Ferragudo. That was nice enough but the road was closed by a large tent. Frustration.
In Armacao de Pera there was nothing else but high rise flats but there was a campsite only1 km from the sea. Once again a highly complex price list and then the killer... wifi only in reception. Sod it.
Just up the road we came across Canelas camping. A normal pricing structure, free wifi around the camp and only €11 a night. We stopped.
Sat/Sun 14/15 December 2013
Happy Campers
Canelas Camp is a bit old fashioned but we had a chance to play with the internet and get a lot of washing done. It’s obvious what the other campers did. They seem to sit in the camp for weeks on end. They are a different breed of motorhomers and caravaners. Every pitch is totally covered by various types of plastic sheeting, tyres are covered to protect them from the sun (what do they do when driving?), windbreaks are everywhere marking out the territory, under the vans are rolling water containers and grey water collectors, each unit had a safari room, some with an extra tent added. There were national flags flying on long flexible poles and Christmas trees with lights, and not forgetting the fence for the dogs and the plant pots with flowers. It is hard to imagine the loads that some vehicles must be carrying. Unlike Jeff and Francis, no one spoke to us other than for a reluctant “Hello”.
But we got some work done and even gave Bessy a scrub down before moving on.
Happy Campers
Canelas Camp is a bit old fashioned but we had a chance to play with the internet and get a lot of washing done. It’s obvious what the other campers did. They seem to sit in the camp for weeks on end. They are a different breed of motorhomers and caravaners. Every pitch is totally covered by various types of plastic sheeting, tyres are covered to protect them from the sun (what do they do when driving?), windbreaks are everywhere marking out the territory, under the vans are rolling water containers and grey water collectors, each unit had a safari room, some with an extra tent added. There were national flags flying on long flexible poles and Christmas trees with lights, and not forgetting the fence for the dogs and the plant pots with flowers. It is hard to imagine the loads that some vehicles must be carrying. Unlike Jeff and Francis, no one spoke to us other than for a reluctant “Hello”.
But we got some work done and even gave Bessy a scrub down before moving on.
Monday 16 December 2013
Funerals
Our first hour was taken up with a drive to the seafront; we are at the coast after all. It’s a pleasant enough place with lovely yellow sand. There are no harbours on this coast so all the fishing boats used to be pulled out to the beach by hand and dragged into the water by hand. Today it is done by tractors. But the main target was just up the road at Alcantarilha where there is said to be a church fully decorated inside with human bones. Instead we drove into ALDI car park by accident. The SatNav Point of Interest (POI) shows the towns main features... two cemeteries. But we could not find a church. Plus the streets narrow down so much we had to reverse 100 meters to get out of the town and we could not find a car park.
We moved on.
The next brilliant idea was to look at Albufeira as it is the main feature of the Algarve. Jane had other ideas and took us down ever narrowing lanes. Finally we abandoned the idea of Albufeira. Too much hassle, so we went to a church that is said to be covered in tiles on the inside at Sao Lourenco.
Once again Jane had strange ideas of the quickest route but we got there and found it locked so had lunch instead. While busy noshing we noticed people gathering on the street and the men looking very uncomfortable in suits and ties... it was a funeral. We thought a big white box next to the hearse would not help the last memories so we quickly moved on.
Once again Jane took us a devious route and then we turned a corner in Estoi to find ourselves following a walking funeral procession through the streets of the town. We had no alternative but to follow at a discrete distance.
Around 16-00 we arrived at our intended Night Stop on the coast near Luz de Tavira. The actual place is called Pedras del Rei. To our surprise there was around 40 other motorhomes had the same idea.
After locking up we strolled around and found a path across the swamps/marsh to a pontoon bridge across a river. On the other side was a small railway that took people to the coast across more marsh/swamp. We turned back and found some police talking to a lady driver. Her window had been smashed and something had been stolen. We will really batten down the hatches tonight.
Funerals
Our first hour was taken up with a drive to the seafront; we are at the coast after all. It’s a pleasant enough place with lovely yellow sand. There are no harbours on this coast so all the fishing boats used to be pulled out to the beach by hand and dragged into the water by hand. Today it is done by tractors. But the main target was just up the road at Alcantarilha where there is said to be a church fully decorated inside with human bones. Instead we drove into ALDI car park by accident. The SatNav Point of Interest (POI) shows the towns main features... two cemeteries. But we could not find a church. Plus the streets narrow down so much we had to reverse 100 meters to get out of the town and we could not find a car park.
We moved on.
The next brilliant idea was to look at Albufeira as it is the main feature of the Algarve. Jane had other ideas and took us down ever narrowing lanes. Finally we abandoned the idea of Albufeira. Too much hassle, so we went to a church that is said to be covered in tiles on the inside at Sao Lourenco.
Once again Jane had strange ideas of the quickest route but we got there and found it locked so had lunch instead. While busy noshing we noticed people gathering on the street and the men looking very uncomfortable in suits and ties... it was a funeral. We thought a big white box next to the hearse would not help the last memories so we quickly moved on.
Once again Jane took us a devious route and then we turned a corner in Estoi to find ourselves following a walking funeral procession through the streets of the town. We had no alternative but to follow at a discrete distance.
Around 16-00 we arrived at our intended Night Stop on the coast near Luz de Tavira. The actual place is called Pedras del Rei. To our surprise there was around 40 other motorhomes had the same idea.
After locking up we strolled around and found a path across the swamps/marsh to a pontoon bridge across a river. On the other side was a small railway that took people to the coast across more marsh/swamp. We turned back and found some police talking to a lady driver. Her window had been smashed and something had been stolen. We will really batten down the hatches tonight.
Tuesday 17 December 2013
Along the coast
After a late rise, with Judit suffering from a sore throat, we planned to have a short drive before attacking Spain. But first we took the small train the mile and a half across the marshes to the coast. This was lovely. A small settlement that used to be used by the tuna fishermen of Portugal. The photos on the cafe wall were outstanding. Stuck in the sand of the beautiful beach were hundreds of old anchors looking very dramatic against the overcast sky. Tuna fishing collapsed in 1966... no more tuna.
We drove along the coast, past holiday homes and white boxes through Santa Luzia and Tavira and stopped at Cacel Velha.
This is a really pretty little village. Little is the operative word because the car park is bigger. Even then a stupid woman parked her car across the gap between the two halves of the car park and we had to reverse out. The village is very peaceful and we enjoyed a quiet stroll around the church and small fort, looking along the lagoon we had driven past.
So nice that we stopped for lunch and had our first meal out in Portugal. Judit had a tuna steak, chips and salad and Ian had similar with swordfish. Maybe it was from frozen because it was a bit cardboardy but never mind.
Along the coast
After a late rise, with Judit suffering from a sore throat, we planned to have a short drive before attacking Spain. But first we took the small train the mile and a half across the marshes to the coast. This was lovely. A small settlement that used to be used by the tuna fishermen of Portugal. The photos on the cafe wall were outstanding. Stuck in the sand of the beautiful beach were hundreds of old anchors looking very dramatic against the overcast sky. Tuna fishing collapsed in 1966... no more tuna.
We drove along the coast, past holiday homes and white boxes through Santa Luzia and Tavira and stopped at Cacel Velha.
This is a really pretty little village. Little is the operative word because the car park is bigger. Even then a stupid woman parked her car across the gap between the two halves of the car park and we had to reverse out. The village is very peaceful and we enjoyed a quiet stroll around the church and small fort, looking along the lagoon we had driven past.
So nice that we stopped for lunch and had our first meal out in Portugal. Judit had a tuna steak, chips and salad and Ian had similar with swordfish. Maybe it was from frozen because it was a bit cardboardy but never mind.
Then we had a relatively short run to Monte Gordo where we had seen evidence of a campsite that was actually near the beach. It isn’t really. We drove on looking for a Lidl. It was signposted and then the signs ran out. But we found a houge municipal Aire at Vila Real de Sto. Antonio next to the river Guadiana which is the borderline to Spain. They wanted €4.5 a night and electric for 2.5 for 12 hours and free wifi. Judit wanted to look at the camp, so back we went to town and enquired. €14 a night and wifi only around reception.
Back to the Aire.
To be honest a bit scruffy but what the hell. Ian helped a Belgian guy whose motorhome had had the front bashed in by a reversing truck driver... twice, while Judit walked in to town and saw folk dancers and lovely old houses.
Let it be known that the internet did not work. It also ruined my Google Earth until we could find a decent internet. But miffed at that.
Back to the Aire.
To be honest a bit scruffy but what the hell. Ian helped a Belgian guy whose motorhome had had the front bashed in by a reversing truck driver... twice, while Judit walked in to town and saw folk dancers and lovely old houses.
Let it be known that the internet did not work. It also ruined my Google Earth until we could find a decent internet. But miffed at that.