Third Finger... Northern Peloponnese really
Kosmas square
Saturday 24 March 2012
Back to Gythion Bay after a pee stop at Carrefour in Skala. Nice to see Viv and Alan again. The dog, Speedy, seemed pleased to see us again.
Today was wash day and clearing out. We were not charged for tonight because the receptionist told us we had been overcharged before. Good man.
Sunday 25 March 2012
Today is Independence Day in Greece and almost every place is closed. Today we had a "moment". After travelling to Sparti we found ourselves having to go through the backstreets because of the celebrations. Luckily the streets are wide, but made narrower by the double (and treble) parking. Mystras was closed of course so we made our way to Kosmas because we noted there is a night stop.
We took the wider roads, as indicated on the maps and the SatNav. However we came to a very, very, very, tight bend in the village of Skoura. A pickup was in the bend so I backed up about 5 yards and dropped a rear wheel in a drainage ditch. Well and truly stuck. Even the beloved Land Rover would have had problems. Luckily the nice man in the pickup went away and came back with a man and a tractor. In 2 minutes we were out but still had to negotiate the bend. What a performance. Cigarette paper gaps each side of Bessy. But she did it with the help of half the village.
From there we found Geraki and viewed the smaller version of Mystras from the village. It was too warm and too far to even think of getting there and then find it also closed.
Onwards to Kosmas on a very beautiful mountain road. The road was reasonably wide but not in the villages. I have noted that the road out involves a 1 in 3 hill and four 90° bends. But that's for tomorrow.
Now we are in the village square and everyone says it's OK to stop. There's water coming from the end wall of the church. It looks to come from the crypt but they say it's drinkable.
Back to Gythion Bay after a pee stop at Carrefour in Skala. Nice to see Viv and Alan again. The dog, Speedy, seemed pleased to see us again.
Today was wash day and clearing out. We were not charged for tonight because the receptionist told us we had been overcharged before. Good man.
Sunday 25 March 2012
Today is Independence Day in Greece and almost every place is closed. Today we had a "moment". After travelling to Sparti we found ourselves having to go through the backstreets because of the celebrations. Luckily the streets are wide, but made narrower by the double (and treble) parking. Mystras was closed of course so we made our way to Kosmas because we noted there is a night stop.
We took the wider roads, as indicated on the maps and the SatNav. However we came to a very, very, very, tight bend in the village of Skoura. A pickup was in the bend so I backed up about 5 yards and dropped a rear wheel in a drainage ditch. Well and truly stuck. Even the beloved Land Rover would have had problems. Luckily the nice man in the pickup went away and came back with a man and a tractor. In 2 minutes we were out but still had to negotiate the bend. What a performance. Cigarette paper gaps each side of Bessy. But she did it with the help of half the village.
From there we found Geraki and viewed the smaller version of Mystras from the village. It was too warm and too far to even think of getting there and then find it also closed.
Onwards to Kosmas on a very beautiful mountain road. The road was reasonably wide but not in the villages. I have noted that the road out involves a 1 in 3 hill and four 90° bends. But that's for tomorrow.
Now we are in the village square and everyone says it's OK to stop. There's water coming from the end wall of the church. It looks to come from the crypt but they say it's drinkable.
Downhill with a turn or two
Monday 26 March 2012
Less eventful day, but very interesting. Left Kosmas down amazing gorge towards Leonidio. On way stopped at spectacular Eloni Convent. The church door was locked and old nun indicated Ian should ring the bell. It was THE church bell. It certainly brought a priest running.
Onward to Leonidio and found an amazing tinsmith’s workshop. Also bought a new mouse. Old one is double and treble clicking when it wants.
Found that one of the Night Stops in Plaka is a waste of time. The other was closed. However the car park next to the Coastguard is OK for one night out of season said local.
Met a nice ex-pat, Roger, and we had a really good natter with him and a Belgian lady Marina. Roger told us that legally “camping” is when you get the chairs and awnings out. Otherwise you are “parking”. He’s lived here some years and assures us it is fact. However, other motorhomers point out that you get moved on when the authorities WANT you to move on.
In order to encourage us one restaurant owner gave us 6 tomatoes for our own lunch. But at 10 quid for one fish; forget it.
Less eventful day, but very interesting. Left Kosmas down amazing gorge towards Leonidio. On way stopped at spectacular Eloni Convent. The church door was locked and old nun indicated Ian should ring the bell. It was THE church bell. It certainly brought a priest running.
Onward to Leonidio and found an amazing tinsmith’s workshop. Also bought a new mouse. Old one is double and treble clicking when it wants.
Found that one of the Night Stops in Plaka is a waste of time. The other was closed. However the car park next to the Coastguard is OK for one night out of season said local.
Met a nice ex-pat, Roger, and we had a really good natter with him and a Belgian lady Marina. Roger told us that legally “camping” is when you get the chairs and awnings out. Otherwise you are “parking”. He’s lived here some years and assures us it is fact. However, other motorhomers point out that you get moved on when the authorities WANT you to move on.
In order to encourage us one restaurant owner gave us 6 tomatoes for our own lunch. But at 10 quid for one fish; forget it.
Paralio Astros
Adopted by a dog
Tuesday 27 March 2012
Pleasant good road up coast to Paralio Astros for a Night Stop. No free wifi in town. Astronnet was available at €3 per hour. Walked to castle with a friendly Labrador cross. Wind picked up in evening and quite rough seas. It even started raining for 20 minutes.
Pleasant good road up coast to Paralio Astros for a Night Stop. No free wifi in town. Astronnet was available at €3 per hour. Walked to castle with a friendly Labrador cross. Wind picked up in evening and quite rough seas. It even started raining for 20 minutes.
Gas
Wednesday 28 March 2012
Found LPG station at Nafplio. Parked on harbour of Nafplio and walked to a castle. Could not find entrance so went into a tunnel that took us to a lift to a hotel. Then walked down road to have coffee and ice cream, €8.5. Enough!
Later Judit climbed 900 plus steps to Palamidi Castle. Ian decided to fish from harbour, but no success. Found a good Greek supermarket called “Welcome”. Very clean and well stocked. Greeks don’t do tinned peas. But pork chops always seem good. The man said they try to stock local produce but the pork was from Holland. So much for the myth about Greek pork being better than anyone elses.
Found LPG station at Nafplio. Parked on harbour of Nafplio and walked to a castle. Could not find entrance so went into a tunnel that took us to a lift to a hotel. Then walked down road to have coffee and ice cream, €8.5. Enough!
Later Judit climbed 900 plus steps to Palamidi Castle. Ian decided to fish from harbour, but no success. Found a good Greek supermarket called “Welcome”. Very clean and well stocked. Greeks don’t do tinned peas. But pork chops always seem good. The man said they try to stock local produce but the pork was from Holland. So much for the myth about Greek pork being better than anyone elses.
Ruined
Note the size of the blocks. Some said to be 3 cubic meters.
Thursday 29 March 2012
Visited ancient Nea Tiryntha site on Nafplia Argos Road... €2 each. Amazing construction with rocks about 1 cubic metre stacked 6 metres high. They say the original was 18 metres high. All that in 13th Century BC.
Looked for other sites in Argos but signs were terrible. Our GPS Track will show you how hard we tried. (See Tracks here)
In the main square of Nafplio we were able to connect to Nafplio free wifi. But it was evening and getting cool sitting on a bench. We managed to update the website a little. When we get a comfortable campsite with free wi-fi we’ll try harder. We’re staying a second night on the harbour at Nafplio. Ian bought a few extra bits of fishing tackle for €4, so look out for the big fish photos!
Visited ancient Nea Tiryntha site on Nafplia Argos Road... €2 each. Amazing construction with rocks about 1 cubic metre stacked 6 metres high. They say the original was 18 metres high. All that in 13th Century BC.
Looked for other sites in Argos but signs were terrible. Our GPS Track will show you how hard we tried. (See Tracks here)
In the main square of Nafplio we were able to connect to Nafplio free wifi. But it was evening and getting cool sitting on a bench. We managed to update the website a little. When we get a comfortable campsite with free wi-fi we’ll try harder. We’re staying a second night on the harbour at Nafplio. Ian bought a few extra bits of fishing tackle for €4, so look out for the big fish photos!
Epidavros
Epidavros harbour
Sunday 1 April 2012
After our stay at Galatas East we moved up the East coast towards Epidavros. Here is the amazingly well-preserved theatre. However we first stopped at “Ancient Epidavros”. Interestingly this is not the ancient site but a town on the coast which does have an ancient theatre that has only a few rows of seats. And that was closed anyway so we peeped over the fence.
Our Night Stop was in a car park next to the central park but Judit felt crowded so we moved to the other side next to the sea. (See list of stops).
Some people claim to have had access to the internet in this place. We could not, so resorted to having a coffee in a bar and using their internet. But how long can you make a coffee last?
After our stay at Galatas East we moved up the East coast towards Epidavros. Here is the amazingly well-preserved theatre. However we first stopped at “Ancient Epidavros”. Interestingly this is not the ancient site but a town on the coast which does have an ancient theatre that has only a few rows of seats. And that was closed anyway so we peeped over the fence.
Our Night Stop was in a car park next to the central park but Judit felt crowded so we moved to the other side next to the sea. (See list of stops).
Some people claim to have had access to the internet in this place. We could not, so resorted to having a coffee in a bar and using their internet. But how long can you make a coffee last?
Epidavros 2
The amazing theatre at Epidavros.
That was Saturday. Now it is Sunday and we went to the BIG theatre. It is well worth a visit. We were lucky to arrive early, around 0900. Within half an hour the place was a throbbing mass of teenagers yelling and squawking.
Because of the peace and quiet we tried an experiment. The Lonely Planet states that from the back row you can hear a coin drop to the floor of the stage. RUBBISH. We tried speaking but I could only hear Judit when she really shouted.
I tried the coin trick on Judit and she could not hear it. But the echo of my own footsteps and my own voice was very loud and would surely have disturbed any actor. Rebuild it, I say!
From there we first drove to Tolo. We’ve visited it before, in season, and it was bursting with Hungarian tourists. Today was quiet and we could stock up on bread and beer before heading for a campsite a few miles south at Iria Beach. Very nice campsite with friendly owners. Plenty of spaces. No Brits around, just Germans.
Because of the peace and quiet we tried an experiment. The Lonely Planet states that from the back row you can hear a coin drop to the floor of the stage. RUBBISH. We tried speaking but I could only hear Judit when she really shouted.
I tried the coin trick on Judit and she could not hear it. But the echo of my own footsteps and my own voice was very loud and would surely have disturbed any actor. Rebuild it, I say!
From there we first drove to Tolo. We’ve visited it before, in season, and it was bursting with Hungarian tourists. Today was quiet and we could stock up on bread and beer before heading for a campsite a few miles south at Iria Beach. Very nice campsite with friendly owners. Plenty of spaces. No Brits around, just Germans.
Irion Beach Campsite
Not Irion Beach, but Tolo. Where they sell Csapolt Sör.
Monday 2 April 2012
Although the weather is perfect and the campsite is peaceful it has not been a relaxing day. “It’s a good drying wind”. So we’ve washed everything possible, shaken everything that couldn’t be washed and generally been running backwards and forwards. The washing machine takes 2 hours per cycle so that cramps your style. The internet is also VERY slow. I tried to download an episode of Minder from YouTube. It took over 6 hours!
In Finikunda I could have downloaded a dozen programmes in that time.
The evening meal will be Ian’s favourite... Giant Beans. Ian has been cooking them all afternoon despite cries from Judit to use the pressure cooker. But Ian is a traditionalist and enjoys getting the onions to just the right browness and the beans to the correct tenderness. Cooking with love. (By the way, Ian is writing this.)
Although the weather is perfect and the campsite is peaceful it has not been a relaxing day. “It’s a good drying wind”. So we’ve washed everything possible, shaken everything that couldn’t be washed and generally been running backwards and forwards. The washing machine takes 2 hours per cycle so that cramps your style. The internet is also VERY slow. I tried to download an episode of Minder from YouTube. It took over 6 hours!
In Finikunda I could have downloaded a dozen programmes in that time.
The evening meal will be Ian’s favourite... Giant Beans. Ian has been cooking them all afternoon despite cries from Judit to use the pressure cooker. But Ian is a traditionalist and enjoys getting the onions to just the right browness and the beans to the correct tenderness. Cooking with love. (By the way, Ian is writing this.)
Corinth and a Canal
"sinking" bridge Corinth canal
Thursday 5 April 2012
The day started peacefully in Korfos and the road to Corinth was easy. We found one of PJ’s Night Stops near the Corinth Canal. In reality the stop could have been much closer to the submerging bridge. Probably in the large car park for tourist buses. The road bridge is lowered underwater to allow ships to pass through the Corinth Canal. A very interesting sight indeed, especially when the bridge is raised and fish can be seen flopping on the roadway.
It was after the Canal that life became harder for the driver. The plan was to go to the ancient ruins of Corinth. I think we should have started from somewhere else. Our “no-motorways” selection on the SatNav took us through the new town of Corinth with the usual woes of double and treble parking. On the upside we found a Lidl and a Carrefour, next door to each other as usual.
Local farmers were selling 30 kilo sacks of spuds for €7 on the road outside the supermarkets. An attempt to cut out the middlemen and provide cheaper food for the hard pressed Greeks.
Sadly the Lidl car park was swarming with beggars who looked very gypsy-like. Interestingly Carrefour had none.
The day started peacefully in Korfos and the road to Corinth was easy. We found one of PJ’s Night Stops near the Corinth Canal. In reality the stop could have been much closer to the submerging bridge. Probably in the large car park for tourist buses. The road bridge is lowered underwater to allow ships to pass through the Corinth Canal. A very interesting sight indeed, especially when the bridge is raised and fish can be seen flopping on the roadway.
It was after the Canal that life became harder for the driver. The plan was to go to the ancient ruins of Corinth. I think we should have started from somewhere else. Our “no-motorways” selection on the SatNav took us through the new town of Corinth with the usual woes of double and treble parking. On the upside we found a Lidl and a Carrefour, next door to each other as usual.
Local farmers were selling 30 kilo sacks of spuds for €7 on the road outside the supermarkets. An attempt to cut out the middlemen and provide cheaper food for the hard pressed Greeks.
Sadly the Lidl car park was swarming with beggars who looked very gypsy-like. Interestingly Carrefour had none.
Ancient Corinth
The village near the ancient site was a nightmare of narrow roads and misleading signs. The only ones making sense were those for the Camper Stop which is where we finally ended up.
We had a very warm welcome and delicious coffees from the grandfather who spoke French and his 12 year old grandson who spoke English. The disadvantages of the site are that it is not level and there is no internet. The advantages are several. First of all the friendly owners, then the proximity to the ancient sites. There’s water, electricity, a motorhome dump and a peaceful atmosphere. The entrance is on quite a steep hill but do not be afraid to follow the signs. We did and our MH is 7.5 meters long. Although only 2 year old the site is maturing and worth visiting, especially for the price.
After settling in we had a meander through the village only to find that the ancient site closed at 1500. Well done! So we photographed it over the fence. Ian thinks it was €12 well saved.
We had a very warm welcome and delicious coffees from the grandfather who spoke French and his 12 year old grandson who spoke English. The disadvantages of the site are that it is not level and there is no internet. The advantages are several. First of all the friendly owners, then the proximity to the ancient sites. There’s water, electricity, a motorhome dump and a peaceful atmosphere. The entrance is on quite a steep hill but do not be afraid to follow the signs. We did and our MH is 7.5 meters long. Although only 2 year old the site is maturing and worth visiting, especially for the price.
After settling in we had a meander through the village only to find that the ancient site closed at 1500. Well done! So we photographed it over the fence. Ian thinks it was €12 well saved.
Hera ruins
Heraeon ruins
Sunday 8 April 2012
On leaving the Camper Stop, grandmother gave us a hug and some flowers from her garden. Onwards to the nearest ruins, Kyras Vrysi. Not bad. We saw some underfloor heating and a row of Processional Caterpillars. The view over to the other side of the Gulf of Corinth was pretty good so we headed in that direction and ended up at Lake Vouliagmenis. The lake is about 1 mile x 0.5 mile and has a narrow opening to the sea. Every six hours water comes in or goes out... quite smartly. We must point out that we are now out of the Peloponnese.
Our Night Stop was in a large dirt car park next to a taverna and was very pleasant and peaceful setting. During the next day we took a walk to the end of Cape Melangavi and had a look at the Heraeon ruins. Not a big site but in a perfect setting. It’s surprising more people do not come here.
On leaving the Camper Stop, grandmother gave us a hug and some flowers from her garden. Onwards to the nearest ruins, Kyras Vrysi. Not bad. We saw some underfloor heating and a row of Processional Caterpillars. The view over to the other side of the Gulf of Corinth was pretty good so we headed in that direction and ended up at Lake Vouliagmenis. The lake is about 1 mile x 0.5 mile and has a narrow opening to the sea. Every six hours water comes in or goes out... quite smartly. We must point out that we are now out of the Peloponnese.
Our Night Stop was in a large dirt car park next to a taverna and was very pleasant and peaceful setting. During the next day we took a walk to the end of Cape Melangavi and had a look at the Heraeon ruins. Not a big site but in a perfect setting. It’s surprising more people do not come here.
On our one mile walk back we were invited into a guy’s garden. Kostas immediately arranged for his wife to make coffee and a glass of wine, and later a glass of ouzo. Kostas was quite a character, and could not stop talking, and invited us to park Bessy in his garden if we wanted.
The evening was brightened up by a group of Cub Scouts and Brownies enjoying games on the beach. Young Harry came up to me and we chatted in English. He said he came from New York and he said he didn’t speak good Greek. A very nice group of kids.
The evening was brightened up by a group of Cub Scouts and Brownies enjoying games on the beach. Young Harry came up to me and we chatted in English. He said he came from New York and he said he didn’t speak good Greek. A very nice group of kids.
After a second peaceful night we drove towards Athens on the non-toll road, saving €8.10. We were heading for a PJ Night Stop quoted as,
“The small village is situated opposite the island of Salamis. Pachi is an ideal place to stay if you just fail to reach Athens. Pachi south of a beach with all amenities, but very quiet.”
Shock, horror! A complete difference to the Peloponnese. The place was throbbing. Cars were parked (badly) about 1 km before the village and in the village it was a mess of badly parked cars and motorbikes. There must have been over 1000 vehicles in the village. The Night Spot quoted was in the village square... no chance. We managed to park on a full dirt car park next to the sea about 300 meters further on. Maybe it’s busy because we are near Athens, maybe because it’s Palm Sunday, who knows. But we are sticking with it for one night before heading for Athens.
“The small village is situated opposite the island of Salamis. Pachi is an ideal place to stay if you just fail to reach Athens. Pachi south of a beach with all amenities, but very quiet.”
Shock, horror! A complete difference to the Peloponnese. The place was throbbing. Cars were parked (badly) about 1 km before the village and in the village it was a mess of badly parked cars and motorbikes. There must have been over 1000 vehicles in the village. The Night Spot quoted was in the village square... no chance. We managed to park on a full dirt car park next to the sea about 300 meters further on. Maybe it’s busy because we are near Athens, maybe because it’s Palm Sunday, who knows. But we are sticking with it for one night before heading for Athens.
