Winter 2012/2013
Beautiful Pylos seen from the castle ramparts.
Time for an update in winter activities in Greece. First of all the problems you see on TV are not apparent in the South. Yes, people are feeling the pinch, with comments ranging from, “It’s not too bad”, to “Business is bad” and “There is a shortage of money”.
Maybe people don’t want to talk about it, but the impression is that things are much the same as last year.
However we can see that prices have risen, certainly compared to Italy. In Italian LIDL stores a bottle of whisky cost €4.95. In Greece LIDL were selling the same whisky for €9.95 (in March €10.95). Similar price hikes for foodstuff. With milk costing around €1.8 a litre.
Maybe people don’t want to talk about it, but the impression is that things are much the same as last year.
However we can see that prices have risen, certainly compared to Italy. In Italian LIDL stores a bottle of whisky cost €4.95. In Greece LIDL were selling the same whisky for €9.95 (in March €10.95). Similar price hikes for foodstuff. With milk costing around €1.8 a litre.
Where are we?
Methoni viewed from the castle. Just a 5 minute drive from our campsite.
Like last year, we are spending the cooler months in Camp Finikes near Finikunda in the Peloponnese. We have our own toilet and shower, with key. The campsite is fairly well sheltered from the wind and the paths drain well. We are right on the beach so we can have pleasant walks into the village or go fishing, and so on. The towns of Methoni, Pylos, Koroni and Kalamata are within easy reach.
Weather
One very cold morning we had frost on the roof window. What a shame!!
We’ve had all sorts. Christmas was very mild weather with folks sitting out in shorts and shirt sleeves. But although the weather has been generally mild we have had a fair amount of rain and wind. For several nights it was cold with the temperature around -1°C. Luckily we have electricity included in the price of the campsite so we can use the fan heater when the cold arrives.
Being so close to the beach can be really noisy during storms; almost like standing at the end of a runway.
Being so close to the beach can be really noisy during storms; almost like standing at the end of a runway.
Shopping
A delicious calorie packed gyros. Only €2.00 each. Beat that McDonalds.
There are a few local shops but they are generally expensive compared to LIDL. So when we feel like a ride out for a change of scene we may end up at LIDL in Messini. They had a special offer of a bottle jack which may be a safer option than the one fitted in the motorhome.
The nearest local shop closed over Christmas and opened again on 21 January. That was a pain but we can go to Methoni and Pylos. In Pylos there is a good supermarket and the opportunity to have some excellent cakes, Greek spinach pies and gyros snacks in the town square.
The nearest local shop closed over Christmas and opened again on 21 January. That was a pain but we can go to Methoni and Pylos. In Pylos there is a good supermarket and the opportunity to have some excellent cakes, Greek spinach pies and gyros snacks in the town square.
Activities
Navarino Bay with Pylos in the distance.
Being in a camp for an extended period is a bit like being at home. In other words you are not tourists, so stay at home most of the time. Nevertheless we’ve been quite active. Fishing kept Ian quiet a few times, even though the fish have all disappeared from the sea. Judit was able to sit and watch and do a few sketches.
Although it’s not exciting, we took time to give Bessy a really good wash and brush up, including the roof which had become mottled with mould.
Then there is Ari the camp dog. We take him for a walk on the beach and through the dunes every day. He’s even become better behaved on the lead and does not pull one’s arm off every few minutes.
Walking is not Ian’s favourite hobby but it has taken us to nice places. For example we took Brian and Carol with us to visit the flamingoes north of Pylos. The scenery is lovely even if the birds were a bit distant.
That trip out took us past a garage at Gianouleika selling AutoGas; so we were able to top up our GasIt bottles we use for cooking. This year there are more AutoGas suppliers in Greece. There is another one in nearby Kalamata.
Although it’s not exciting, we took time to give Bessy a really good wash and brush up, including the roof which had become mottled with mould.
Then there is Ari the camp dog. We take him for a walk on the beach and through the dunes every day. He’s even become better behaved on the lead and does not pull one’s arm off every few minutes.
Walking is not Ian’s favourite hobby but it has taken us to nice places. For example we took Brian and Carol with us to visit the flamingoes north of Pylos. The scenery is lovely even if the birds were a bit distant.
That trip out took us past a garage at Gianouleika selling AutoGas; so we were able to top up our GasIt bottles we use for cooking. This year there are more AutoGas suppliers in Greece. There is another one in nearby Kalamata.
Herbs and Olive Oil
Filling our cans with fresh pressed olive oil in Finikunda.
A beach walk is also a good place to forage for herbs such as thyme. There’s tons of it. We also found wild spring onions. Judit has been amusing herself making jams and lemon curd with the plentiful supply of citrus fruit. A 10 kilo sack of oranges costs €4.00. She has also been collecting and drying out bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, oregano and sage... all growing wild.
Playing with the internet also keeps us occupied. We can download TV programmes to watch later. In addition, Brian told us of a website called Filmon (http://www.filmon.com). This enables us to watch live TV from literally dozens of TV channels, including all the main UK channels. Of course we can also play with the website, which you are now reading.
There was a period when the internet started playing up and our stored movies came in handy.
Another interesting outing took us to the local olive oil press. While topping up some cans we had a guided tour of the facilities. Very interesting to hear that 80% of the olive oil is exported to Italy where it is bottled as Italian oil. We also met up with Rose and Alf who were passing on the scooter. Cups of coffee at their place in Lachanada quickly followed.
Playing with the internet also keeps us occupied. We can download TV programmes to watch later. In addition, Brian told us of a website called Filmon (http://www.filmon.com). This enables us to watch live TV from literally dozens of TV channels, including all the main UK channels. Of course we can also play with the website, which you are now reading.
There was a period when the internet started playing up and our stored movies came in handy.
Another interesting outing took us to the local olive oil press. While topping up some cans we had a guided tour of the facilities. Very interesting to hear that 80% of the olive oil is exported to Italy where it is bottled as Italian oil. We also met up with Rose and Alf who were passing on the scooter. Cups of coffee at their place in Lachanada quickly followed.
Social Life
Christmas Eve coffee morning with Geoff and Corrie, Brian and Carole, and ourselves.
Although there are fewer campers this year we still have a decent social life. Almost every day the sun shines there is a coffee morning with Geoff and Corrie, Brian and Carol, Russ and Lynne and Derrick and Nadine. Then we go out for a meal now and again with our friends from last year, Rose and Alf. The local restaurants are not Michelin starred but provide good honest Greek fodder at reasonable prices.
Judit is able to practice her Hungarian with Val. She is a Hungarian lady with a German husband, Heinz, from Passau.
Christmas was the highlight of course and Judit prepared some excellent food. We had hoped for a duck from LIDL. They had them in Italy but not in Greece, which was a real shame. Geoff and Corrie insisted of having a dip in the sea on Christmas day. It must have been reasonably warm as they were not blue afterwards.
Judit is able to practice her Hungarian with Val. She is a Hungarian lady with a German husband, Heinz, from Passau.
Christmas was the highlight of course and Judit prepared some excellent food. We had hoped for a duck from LIDL. They had them in Italy but not in Greece, which was a real shame. Geoff and Corrie insisted of having a dip in the sea on Christmas day. It must have been reasonably warm as they were not blue afterwards.
Christmas period
Christmas Eve bonfire on the beach.
Rose and Alf took us to Pylos where Rose was playing her trombone in a local band. We had a lovely evening with the band playing Christmas music in the square.
New Year’s Eve evening was spectacular, even if it was drizzling and cold. Rod and ourselves assembled a massive bonfire on the beach and we all took along some grub and booze.
We went to Finikunda for the special Epiphany celebrations. In brief, the locals came from church and paraded through the village to the harbour. Once there the priest threw a wooden cross into the sea and two boys jumped from a boat to rescue it. The boys then went around the town with a washing up bowl collecting money for themselves. There was a lot of paper in the bowl!
New Year’s Eve evening was spectacular, even if it was drizzling and cold. Rod and ourselves assembled a massive bonfire on the beach and we all took along some grub and booze.
We went to Finikunda for the special Epiphany celebrations. In brief, the locals came from church and paraded through the village to the harbour. Once there the priest threw a wooden cross into the sea and two boys jumped from a boat to rescue it. The boys then went around the town with a washing up bowl collecting money for themselves. There was a lot of paper in the bowl!
So you see, we are not bottled up like hermits in a white box. We are having a good time. There was even time for Judit to practice driving Bessy. Now one of us can have a beer!
Life is a pig!
Lovely crackling.
When the weather picked up and Rod started his strimming activities he came across a small poisonous snake. The question is: where is the mother?
We had an excellent day out at Akritochori which is a village about 5 km from us. It was the day for killing and preparing the pig. We were saved the slaughter but enjoyed the music, dancing and the free food and wine.
We had an excellent day out at Akritochori which is a village about 5 km from us. It was the day for killing and preparing the pig. We were saved the slaughter but enjoyed the music, dancing and the free food and wine.
Carnival time
Judit and Carole enjoy the free bean soup at Methoni Carnival.
The Carnival season arrived with every local town staggering the dates so we could visit all of them. Our first was in Finikunda on a scorching hot day. A week later we went to see the ruins of Nestor’s Palace and found it will be closed for 2 or more years. It looks like the EU gave them some money... but nothing was happening. But up the road in the Town of Chora the carnival was just kicking off. Our last Carnival was in Methoni. Good fun and excellent FREE bean soup... lovely.
Very loose plans
In a couple of weeks time the weather should pick up and we will start our travels again. At the moment we are waiting for the postman to deliver our Green Card for Turkey. The plan is to tour Turkey, Bulgaria, Romania and then stop in Hungary for a while. Hopefully family will visit us in Hungary, which would be nice. After that we are thinking of returning to the UK via Poland, Germany, Holland and Belgium to Dunkirk.
1 to 7 April 2013
DSry river bed in Kardamyli. Taygetos mountains in background.
We left our winter base of Camping Finikes on April 1st. Judit got me to wipe my nose because I had a black spot on it. The first and only April Fool’s joke. Our first stop was Pylos where Ian bought some cigars from the only kiosk that sold them and then we headed off to Messini.
On the way we bought some vegetables at a roadside stall before our main stop at LIDL. At least the food is cheaper in LIDL and Queen Margot whisky is available. Ian thinks that this is decent whisky but does not have the advertising power of Johnny Walker and his friends.
Onwards through Kalamata and over the mountains to Kardamyli. We know the road now but it still surprises us how beautiful it is. Especially the view down the Mani; always worth a stop to admire it.
On the way we bought some vegetables at a roadside stall before our main stop at LIDL. At least the food is cheaper in LIDL and Queen Margot whisky is available. Ian thinks that this is decent whisky but does not have the advertising power of Johnny Walker and his friends.
Onwards through Kalamata and over the mountains to Kardamyli. We know the road now but it still surprises us how beautiful it is. Especially the view down the Mani; always worth a stop to admire it.
Kardamyli
Beautiful orange blossom.
We found a decent bit of dirt car park on the beach next to the village football field. The field is covered in Astroturf, but it seems to have shrunk as the pitch is only about 2/3 size. Then we saw a pile of discarded stuff; maybe it was worn out. Ian had a plan to borrow a decent size piece for a doormat outside Bessy. However a clandestine outing showed that most of it was very heavy duty underlay and not easy to carry. Shame.
We spent two nights at Kardamyli. It really is a very pretty village and worth walking around a couple of times. The whole village was filled with the fantastic scent of orange blossom.
There was a nice lady at the Bead Shop. She came from Leeds. Yorkshire Rules!
At the opposite end of the football field from us is a very pleasant taverna called Gialos, with internet. Apparently Gialos means “beach”. However most of the beach is covered in large pebbles. No matter because the weather was windy and the sea very rough. The whole sky was gloomy and filled with sand... maybe from Africa.
NOTE: New Autogas Kalamata
N 37° 3.366'
E 22° 4.067'
Drive from Kalamata airport towards Kalamata on the long straight road. At the traffic lights turn right as if going to Kalamata. After about 300 meters enter BP station on left. It had only been open 2 days when we arrived and they were not sure what to do with motorhome refillable bottles. However after a little discussion they filled us up just fine. They also asked us to tell everyone we know... and that’s just what we are doing.
We will stop entering Autogas stations because they are now in almost all towns.
We spent two nights at Kardamyli. It really is a very pretty village and worth walking around a couple of times. The whole village was filled with the fantastic scent of orange blossom.
There was a nice lady at the Bead Shop. She came from Leeds. Yorkshire Rules!
At the opposite end of the football field from us is a very pleasant taverna called Gialos, with internet. Apparently Gialos means “beach”. However most of the beach is covered in large pebbles. No matter because the weather was windy and the sea very rough. The whole sky was gloomy and filled with sand... maybe from Africa.
NOTE: New Autogas Kalamata
N 37° 3.366'
E 22° 4.067'
Drive from Kalamata airport towards Kalamata on the long straight road. At the traffic lights turn right as if going to Kalamata. After about 300 meters enter BP station on left. It had only been open 2 days when we arrived and they were not sure what to do with motorhome refillable bottles. However after a little discussion they filled us up just fine. They also asked us to tell everyone we know... and that’s just what we are doing.
We will stop entering Autogas stations because they are now in almost all towns.
Agios Nikolaus
A very pleasant walk from Agios Nikolaos to Stoupa.
Our next stop was Agios Nikolaus. We stopped here last year in the same large dirt car park. The locals seem to be enlarging it because one morning we were asked to move 50 meters so that the JCB could level off another area. Maybe one day it will be concrete and have a tap and a public toilet!
Gregg’s Plateia is still going strong and we spent a couple of mornings helping Freda to make a Weebly website. It’s a good place to have a coffee or a beer and also catch up with the internet.
Duiring our stay we walked along the coastal path to Stoupa. People there were getting ready for the influx of tourists. Our old “Pork Butcher”, who’s place burned down last year, has found a new site not far from the dentists. Pity he’s not open out of season.
The weather has been strange again with the African sand in the air.
Gregg’s Plateia is still going strong and we spent a couple of mornings helping Freda to make a Weebly website. It’s a good place to have a coffee or a beer and also catch up with the internet.
Duiring our stay we walked along the coastal path to Stoupa. People there were getting ready for the influx of tourists. Our old “Pork Butcher”, who’s place burned down last year, has found a new site not far from the dentists. Pity he’s not open out of season.
The weather has been strange again with the African sand in the air.
Neo Itilo and Areopolis
Ancient castle at Neo Itilo.
Our onward journey took us to Neo Itilo which is about 20 K down the Mani. We had no trouble finding a spot as the place was deserted. Judit insisted on a walk up the mountainside to a castle we saw on Google Earth. The road is very steep and the castle is around 800 feet up. Very puff making. The place really is a ruin with only the walls remaining and the interior filled with vegetation. The view of Oitilo, the village on the opposite side of the gorge, was excellent. Walking down was a pleasure.
In the evening we saw a fox patrolling the pebble beach.
During the night we suffered very strong winds which rocked us around like a December Channel crossing. The wind did not clear the sky as we still had the gloomy sandy clouds.
Sunday found us just up the windy road in Areopoli where we meandered around before buying some very strange bread at a traditional bakers. A lady was using a real wood fired oven which looked really good. The bread is like coiled 1cm thick rope and it appears to have been deep fried.
Mike and Pat will be pleased to know that the massive deep hole in Areopolis is still there, as is the souvlaki cafe.
Next stop was Githeon Bay campsite, near Gytheio, where we are charging up and emptying out. Alan and Viv, who were here last year, moved on a month ago. The site is changing as the new owners are putting a pool in on the beach front. The place is also more crowded. From Bessy we can count 16 caravans or motorhomes. Most of them are German or Swiss and seem almost permanent. Last year there were three of us.
Sadly the owner has done nothing with the internet, which is a domestic wi-fi box in one of the rooms. It has a range of around 3 meters and is very slow.
So have pity on us putting this information on our site!
In the evening we saw a fox patrolling the pebble beach.
During the night we suffered very strong winds which rocked us around like a December Channel crossing. The wind did not clear the sky as we still had the gloomy sandy clouds.
Sunday found us just up the windy road in Areopoli where we meandered around before buying some very strange bread at a traditional bakers. A lady was using a real wood fired oven which looked really good. The bread is like coiled 1cm thick rope and it appears to have been deep fried.
Mike and Pat will be pleased to know that the massive deep hole in Areopolis is still there, as is the souvlaki cafe.
Next stop was Githeon Bay campsite, near Gytheio, where we are charging up and emptying out. Alan and Viv, who were here last year, moved on a month ago. The site is changing as the new owners are putting a pool in on the beach front. The place is also more crowded. From Bessy we can count 16 caravans or motorhomes. Most of them are German or Swiss and seem almost permanent. Last year there were three of us.
Sadly the owner has done nothing with the internet, which is a domestic wi-fi box in one of the rooms. It has a range of around 3 meters and is very slow.
So have pity on us putting this information on our site!
