Sparta
After Gytheo we headed North to Sparta. We’ve been in the area at Mystras but not in Sparta itself. Near the sports stadium we found a quiet street next to a nursery/infants school. Luckily nearby are the ancient ruins of Sparta. The ruined amphitheatre looked good with ancient Mystras in the background.
In the afternoon we visited the museum. It’s quite simple with just 5 rooms, 6 staff and a selection of statues and mosaic. For some reason we were not allowed to photograph the mosaics!
Not too far away is the main church with a very ornate Orthodox interior. Other than these sights Sparta seemed very spartan.
In the afternoon we visited the museum. It’s quite simple with just 5 rooms, 6 staff and a selection of statues and mosaic. For some reason we were not allowed to photograph the mosaics!
Not too far away is the main church with a very ornate Orthodox interior. Other than these sights Sparta seemed very spartan.
Towards Nafplio
In the morning we continued North towards Tripoli. The road has a brand new section marked on the maps and SatNav... but it was closed. The EU billboard mentioned €800,000,000. A lot of money for an unfinished road. When will the EU stop wasting our money?
Just before Tripoli we turned East to see some old ruin guarded by three people. It was the size of two tennis courts. Ian refused to pay €2 each to enter as we could see it all through the fence.
But we were on a nice quiet backroad and headed for Paralio Astras. The route was very pretty and very quiet but a lot of money is being spent on building an impressive bridge to cut a corned off the route.
Just North of Paralia Astros is a beach with lots of parking and some shade trees. We lunched here but it would make a good Night Stop.
After lunch we followed the coast North in the direction of Nafplio. About 5km before the town is a new Coral filling station that also sells Autogas. The old one not far away up a side road still seems to be open.
In Nafplio we used the harbour car park for the night. Last year’s stock of wind turbine parts has gone so someone else has been conned into spoiling the countryside and wasting money. We walked around town with the intention of buying some orange blossom oil but almost everywhere was closed. Maybe Wednesday is full-day closing.
In need of an internet fix we entered a cafe. Judit had a fancy cold chocolate drink and Ian had a small Alpha. Each cost €4. In Gregg’s Place at Ag. Nikolaos a large beer cost €2; confirming that Nafplio is over-priced.
Just before Tripoli we turned East to see some old ruin guarded by three people. It was the size of two tennis courts. Ian refused to pay €2 each to enter as we could see it all through the fence.
But we were on a nice quiet backroad and headed for Paralio Astras. The route was very pretty and very quiet but a lot of money is being spent on building an impressive bridge to cut a corned off the route.
Just North of Paralia Astros is a beach with lots of parking and some shade trees. We lunched here but it would make a good Night Stop.
After lunch we followed the coast North in the direction of Nafplio. About 5km before the town is a new Coral filling station that also sells Autogas. The old one not far away up a side road still seems to be open.
In Nafplio we used the harbour car park for the night. Last year’s stock of wind turbine parts has gone so someone else has been conned into spoiling the countryside and wasting money. We walked around town with the intention of buying some orange blossom oil but almost everywhere was closed. Maybe Wednesday is full-day closing.
In need of an internet fix we entered a cafe. Judit had a fancy cold chocolate drink and Ian had a small Alpha. Each cost €4. In Gregg’s Place at Ag. Nikolaos a large beer cost €2; confirming that Nafplio is over-priced.
Salanti Beach
In the morning we moved South East to investigate the peninsula past Tolo. It is very beautiful. Plus there is a cheap filling station with diesel at €1.32 a litre (about £1.12).
The road to Salanti Beach is very attractive with lots of hills and hairpin bends. The highest part of the route was over 500 meters high and had a large open space which would make a good emergency stop. Quite deserted, except for the donkey, and excellent views. The NS we found is worth the effort. We camped on a big open beach with a few shade trees, not a sound to be heard, and the smell of camomile. In addition the sea was a fantastic azure blue with hardly a ripple.
Inshore is an abandoned beach hotel complex of seven floors, extensive gardens, a large pool with bar, tennis courts, crazy golf, a disco area, an outside restaurant and a small modern amphitheatre. Totally abandoned.
Someone must have had an idea... but not a good one!
Around midnight we heard loud banging in the empty hotel and then voices. The voices moved along the beach. We could see nothing but we hear loud chattering and a few gunshots. This is the downside of finding a secluded spot. The local louts can’t resist making a nuisance of themselves. The pistol shots could have been fireworks but as the local sport seems to be shooting road signs it is more than likely they were from a gun. It’s not a nice experience when the world is pitch black. Do you turn the lights on and hope they go away or pretend to be a big white rock? We decided that being a rock would be safer.
The road to Salanti Beach is very attractive with lots of hills and hairpin bends. The highest part of the route was over 500 meters high and had a large open space which would make a good emergency stop. Quite deserted, except for the donkey, and excellent views. The NS we found is worth the effort. We camped on a big open beach with a few shade trees, not a sound to be heard, and the smell of camomile. In addition the sea was a fantastic azure blue with hardly a ripple.
Inshore is an abandoned beach hotel complex of seven floors, extensive gardens, a large pool with bar, tennis courts, crazy golf, a disco area, an outside restaurant and a small modern amphitheatre. Totally abandoned.
Someone must have had an idea... but not a good one!
Around midnight we heard loud banging in the empty hotel and then voices. The voices moved along the beach. We could see nothing but we hear loud chattering and a few gunshots. This is the downside of finding a secluded spot. The local louts can’t resist making a nuisance of themselves. The pistol shots could have been fireworks but as the local sport seems to be shooting road signs it is more than likely they were from a gun. It’s not a nice experience when the world is pitch black. Do you turn the lights on and hope they go away or pretend to be a big white rock? We decided that being a rock would be safer.
Porto Cheli
On our way to Kilada we saw road signs for a prehistoric cave and an ancient tower. It would help if the signs gave distances because we found neither.
Kilada is a very attractive village and when all the stored boats are in the water it must be very lively. We found a good Night Stop on the sea front and an excellent internet cafe called Happy Flo. The owner was very hospitable and we chatted for a long time about the financial troubles of Greece. He, like many, consider that the EU could have done more to help the ordinary Greeks when the were given the Euro. As he said, when there is an open pot of honey everyone wants to dip their finger in. In addition the EU should have had more control over the change to the Euro. He, and everyone he knows, would welcome the Drachma back tomorrow.
On the road to Porto Cheli we found two filling stations selling Autogas. Porto Cheli is a little larger than Kilada and the harbour is full of expensive boats form around the world. We spent the night in a car park near the sea front. The downside of a spot like this is the number of idiots who compete to make the loudest noise with their unsilenced motor scooters.
Incidentally, it’s a good thing we removed the beige fitted carpets from Bessy as we have contrived to spill tomatoes, beer and olive oil on the floor. At least we can now wash, or throw away, our cheap rugs.
Kilada is a very attractive village and when all the stored boats are in the water it must be very lively. We found a good Night Stop on the sea front and an excellent internet cafe called Happy Flo. The owner was very hospitable and we chatted for a long time about the financial troubles of Greece. He, like many, consider that the EU could have done more to help the ordinary Greeks when the were given the Euro. As he said, when there is an open pot of honey everyone wants to dip their finger in. In addition the EU should have had more control over the change to the Euro. He, and everyone he knows, would welcome the Drachma back tomorrow.
On the road to Porto Cheli we found two filling stations selling Autogas. Porto Cheli is a little larger than Kilada and the harbour is full of expensive boats form around the world. We spent the night in a car park near the sea front. The downside of a spot like this is the number of idiots who compete to make the loudest noise with their unsilenced motor scooters.
Incidentally, it’s a good thing we removed the beige fitted carpets from Bessy as we have contrived to spill tomatoes, beer and olive oil on the floor. At least we can now wash, or throw away, our cheap rugs.
Triton II, Drepano
We continued round the peninsula in an anti-clockwise direction via Ermioni, Thermisia and Vlachaika past the island of Poros. The route is very windy and, in some places, narrow. But well worth it as the road was almost empty. We stopped at Ancient Epidavros and asked to camp next to a Taverna. The owner advised us that the campsites are open and we could have the Police calling around in the middle of the night to move us on.
So we moved on and stopped at Triton II campsite near Drepano.
It’s a very pretty, friendly and well organised campsite. The wifi behaved most of the time and Ian had the opportunity on the Sunday morning (14 April) to watch the Chines Grand Prix on Filmon.com. Sadly the internet packed up in the afternoon when Ian was calling Richard.
The peace and quiet gave Judit chance to squeeze her 5 kilos of oranges (€4)
So we moved on and stopped at Triton II campsite near Drepano.
It’s a very pretty, friendly and well organised campsite. The wifi behaved most of the time and Ian had the opportunity on the Sunday morning (14 April) to watch the Chines Grand Prix on Filmon.com. Sadly the internet packed up in the afternoon when Ian was calling Richard.
The peace and quiet gave Judit chance to squeeze her 5 kilos of oranges (€4)
Mycenae, 15 April 2013
We left Triton II on Monday 15 April in the direction of Corinth. First stop was near Nafplio to fill up at the AP Filling Station for the cheapest diesel around. They also sell Autogas. The reason for pointing out the Autogas station is because in the whole of the Peloponnese there were only two stations last year. Now they are sprouting up all over the place. On the way we stopped at the ancient ruins of Mycenae. We’ve been before but never saw the Treasury of Atreus or the museum. Entry to the whole site was €4 each for oldies and was worth every cent. The Treasury of Atreus is a very impressive complete Tholos tomb. Even in April the coaches were disgorging tourists every couple of minutes. It must be hell in the high season. The museum complex is missing out on a good money making opportunity... a cafe where we should be able to buy a spinach pie and a drink.
Ancient Corinth
Onwards to Ancient Corinth by avoiding toll roads made a very pleasant drive. We know it is going to get much busier as we approach Athens. We have stopped before at the Ancient Corinth Camper Stop but could not resist seeing the place again. They gave us a very warm welcome. Grandad gave Ian a hug and a kiss on each cheek. We were both given a coffee and a dish of grapes in honey. What an amazing place.
Grandad was explaining in Greek about the sad loss of Margaret Thatcher. It always amazes us to find that foreigners have a much higher opinion of our UK leaders than we do. Possibly they felt the good effects of our foreign policy more deeply than us.
In the evening Grandad came again, this time with lettuce and spring onions from the garden. But the biggest surprise was in the morning when he knocked on the door and presented us with Greek donuts for breakfast. Amazing.
They are not really donuts but some sort of bread dough deep fried and very tasty.
After our donated breakfast we walked up through the village to the ancient site of Corinth. This is one of the ruins that really is well worth a visit and has a very good museum. Because we are British and also ancient the entrance fee was €3 each.
Grandad was explaining in Greek about the sad loss of Margaret Thatcher. It always amazes us to find that foreigners have a much higher opinion of our UK leaders than we do. Possibly they felt the good effects of our foreign policy more deeply than us.
In the evening Grandad came again, this time with lettuce and spring onions from the garden. But the biggest surprise was in the morning when he knocked on the door and presented us with Greek donuts for breakfast. Amazing.
They are not really donuts but some sort of bread dough deep fried and very tasty.
After our donated breakfast we walked up through the village to the ancient site of Corinth. This is one of the ruins that really is well worth a visit and has a very good museum. Because we are British and also ancient the entrance fee was €3 each.
Akrocorinth
The big adventure was in the afternoon when we wanted to visit Akrocorinth. This is the amazing mountain fortress that overlooks Corinth. From the campsite it is a climb of 1,800 feet. Naturally we took a taxi to the entrance which still left another 700 feet to climb. The going was tough because the roadway was a) steep and b) made from large marble pebbles and c) the were smooth and slippery. Nevertheless the fortress ruins are impressive... and free.
Inside we met a group of three Greek young ladies who were nurses on holiday. They directed us to the highest point and even then we missed the path and spent a good 30 minutes clambering through scrub and rocks; hoping there were no snakes hidden in the grass.
The view from the summit was outstanding. Corinth was laid out like a map, the Gulf of Corinth seemed to stretch forever and in the village below we could just make out Bessy in the campsite. With the aid of binoculars we could easily make out the entrance and exit of the Corinth canal.
As in the morning we were not alone and there was a group of teenagers from the French School in Athens. They too were impressed.
We decided that we could easily walk down the mountain road back to camp. But we were relieved when a new Mini pulled up and offered us a lift. The two French ladies were very kind and took us all the way to the centre where we gave ourselves a Frappe treat.
Inside we met a group of three Greek young ladies who were nurses on holiday. They directed us to the highest point and even then we missed the path and spent a good 30 minutes clambering through scrub and rocks; hoping there were no snakes hidden in the grass.
The view from the summit was outstanding. Corinth was laid out like a map, the Gulf of Corinth seemed to stretch forever and in the village below we could just make out Bessy in the campsite. With the aid of binoculars we could easily make out the entrance and exit of the Corinth canal.
As in the morning we were not alone and there was a group of teenagers from the French School in Athens. They too were impressed.
We decided that we could easily walk down the mountain road back to camp. But we were relieved when a new Mini pulled up and offered us a lift. The two French ladies were very kind and took us all the way to the centre where we gave ourselves a Frappe treat.
Hot Water
We took our leave of the kind people in Ancient Corinth and headed North on the motorway. It’s easier than the old roads which twist and turn like a badly tied knot. Over the famous Corinth canal and onwards on the Athens road. At Magora we turned left through the narrow streets of the town. Once outside we started climbing over the mountains on a very picturesque road and eventually descended to Kato Alepochori, where we stopped and bought some veg from a man who used to live in Cardiff. We also stopped at the local bakers and bought some fine bread and nibbles which we ate in a lay-by near some giant water tanks. They were there, presumably, in case of fire in the forests.
Soon we were on the road to Thiva and further north on the road the tourists take to Delphi. The tourists turn off at Livadia but we kept on going North. The road was fantastic and we had lovely views of snow capped mountains before descending again to the plains around Thermopile. We’ve stopped here before and found it safe and level, if not attractive. But there is a Police station just opposite. We met up with a lot of teenagers and their teacher having a dip in the steaming water. It turned out they came from Australia and were doing the historical thing. They’d already been to Turkey.
Soon we were on the road to Thiva and further north on the road the tourists take to Delphi. The tourists turn off at Livadia but we kept on going North. The road was fantastic and we had lovely views of snow capped mountains before descending again to the plains around Thermopile. We’ve stopped here before and found it safe and level, if not attractive. But there is a Police station just opposite. We met up with a lot of teenagers and their teacher having a dip in the steaming water. It turned out they came from Australia and were doing the historical thing. They’d already been to Turkey.
Three wheels on his wagon...
In the morning we headed for Achilio but made a mistake and found ourselves in Lamia. This was fortunate because the road then took us right past another LIDL, where we bought some Thai Green Curry paste and various veg. It was the first time we’d tried it and it turned out to be delicious. The Sat Nav took us on a very devious route through a very narrow streeted village of Pelasgia before crossing the motorway towards Achilio.
Once there we took up our usual place and soon we were chatting with Sykos, who we had met the previous year. The yacht hire people kindly let us use their internet again and we were soon at home.
The next day we had a chat with a fellow “motorhomer” called Jean-Louise. He stated that he lived in Europe and was travelling around in an Italian three-wheel van. The sort driven by a two-stroke motorbike engine. Not even a steering wheel, just handlebars. He had fitted a wood burning stove inside the van and appeared comfortable with his way of life. In the evening we had a very pleasant evening in a bar with Sykos.
Once there we took up our usual place and soon we were chatting with Sykos, who we had met the previous year. The yacht hire people kindly let us use their internet again and we were soon at home.
The next day we had a chat with a fellow “motorhomer” called Jean-Louise. He stated that he lived in Europe and was travelling around in an Italian three-wheel van. The sort driven by a two-stroke motorbike engine. Not even a steering wheel, just handlebars. He had fitted a wood burning stove inside the van and appeared comfortable with his way of life. In the evening we had a very pleasant evening in a bar with Sykos.
Camping Hellas
Our onward route on Saturday took us up the motorway and then turned off towards Volos. That was pretty chaotic. The authorities had placed 50cm high orange plastic poles about two feet from the curb to discourage parking. That meant everyone was parked at least 50cm nearer the middle of the road. On top of that the authorities had also placed the same poles down the middle of the road to encourage lane discipline. It was a disaster.
We had planned to camp “wild” but found ourselves in Camping Hellas. This is a well appointed and very pretty seaside camp. The owners are charming and very helpful. They told us that on Sunday a narrow gauge railway would be twisting its way around the mountain side and we should take it. We did.
First a bus to Ano Lechonia and then the train. The route is spectacular and crossed some amazing gorges before a coffee stop at Ano Gatzea. There Ian tried the local firewater, called tsipouro, which is made from grapes and aniseed. The second half of the journey was even more spectacular with wonderful views and a couple of bridges that looked to come from the Indian Mountain Railways.
On arrival at Milies we had to walk a very long way uphill on cobbles to the village centre. After all that exertion we treated ourselves to a meal. Ian had lamb cooked in lemon sauce and Judit had a lovely sort of moussaka. It was not moussaka, it was even better.
After a walk around the pretty village we took the bus back to the camp. The bus had to make a very tight turn around the church. It was amazing to see as the left wing mirror was millimeters from the house on the left and the right side of the coach was the same distance from the church. Why do they use 44-seater coaches instead of smaller buses?
We had planned to camp “wild” but found ourselves in Camping Hellas. This is a well appointed and very pretty seaside camp. The owners are charming and very helpful. They told us that on Sunday a narrow gauge railway would be twisting its way around the mountain side and we should take it. We did.
First a bus to Ano Lechonia and then the train. The route is spectacular and crossed some amazing gorges before a coffee stop at Ano Gatzea. There Ian tried the local firewater, called tsipouro, which is made from grapes and aniseed. The second half of the journey was even more spectacular with wonderful views and a couple of bridges that looked to come from the Indian Mountain Railways.
On arrival at Milies we had to walk a very long way uphill on cobbles to the village centre. After all that exertion we treated ourselves to a meal. Ian had lamb cooked in lemon sauce and Judit had a lovely sort of moussaka. It was not moussaka, it was even better.
After a walk around the pretty village we took the bus back to the camp. The bus had to make a very tight turn around the church. It was amazing to see as the left wing mirror was millimeters from the house on the left and the right side of the coach was the same distance from the church. Why do they use 44-seater coaches instead of smaller buses?
Monday Morning 22 April 2012.
The island of Paleo Trikeri.
Further progress down the Peilion peninsula. It really is a very beautiful road with lots of twists and turns and dramatic views. The further south we got the more it reminded us of the Mani. There are very few places to pull up at the side of the road for a photo, but we did manage to find a nice harbour at Milina with a beautiful old Danish trading boat. The owner told us it was 99 year old. He takes people for one week cruises in the season.
When we were within shouting distance of Trikeri we turned right (beware it’s a bit tight) and went down to the very end of the Pelion peninsula. The place is called Alogoperos and is where the ferry for village of Paleo Trikeri can be taken.
The folks at the taverna were very kind and allowed us to stay in their car park. We had a good long chat with Pericles who used to be a seaman and had travelled the world. His colleague was a pretty young girl from Bulgaria.
When we were within shouting distance of Trikeri we turned right (beware it’s a bit tight) and went down to the very end of the Pelion peninsula. The place is called Alogoperos and is where the ferry for village of Paleo Trikeri can be taken.
The folks at the taverna were very kind and allowed us to stay in their car park. We had a good long chat with Pericles who used to be a seaman and had travelled the world. His colleague was a pretty young girl from Bulgaria.
Paleo Trikeri
The ferry to Paleo Trikeri.
Tuesday 23 April 2013. After breakfast we took the small, but very fast, ferry to the island which is the original Trikeri. Only 20 people live on the island and it is VERY, VERY peaceful. The monastery was worth visting. It’s a ten minute walk uphill. There are no cars on the island. By the way the ferry cost us €15 for 2 people return.
Finally, today we returned to Kala Nera and parked in the harbour, just 5 minute walk to the village where we ate the best gyros ever in Paris Taverna. Good wifi, good gyros and very nice people.
Finally, today we returned to Kala Nera and parked in the harbour, just 5 minute walk to the village where we ate the best gyros ever in Paris Taverna. Good wifi, good gyros and very nice people.
From Kala Nera Harbour
This cat simply stared at Judit for one whole hour... why?
Just south of Volos we found the ultimate low price diesel, €1.289 per lire (about £1.09p). Naturally we filled Bessy to the brim, but we had to pay cash. This meant finding a cash machine in Volos. Luckily it was not as busy as the last time we passed this way.
Out of Volos and onto a decent non-fee paying motorway. After about 25 miles we turned right to head for the coast. Here the country has really changed. In the Peloponnese the only trees seem to olive trees. Around Nafplio 99% of trees appear to be orange trees (and they smell beautiful). Here there was not a tree to be seen and the land was absolutely flat, littered with flat villages and no doubt flat people.
But the mountains ahead soonproved a challenge. The road is good and the views were amazing. Sadly a little hazy, but still good views. The only car we saw as we drove over the mountains was drived by someone who must have bought his driving licence in 1930. His lane discipline was wonderful to watch but it deterred us even thinking of overtaking.
On the coast we wriggled our way through various villages and seaside resorts. But the sea looked a little murky and not with sand. Maybe nearby Thessaloniki has something to do with it.
We really struggled to find a Night Stop. At Kato Polydendri was a good PJ spot but it was a little early. It would have been the best spot of all. We drove on through Agiokampos, Velika, Kokkino Nero,
Stomio had some space, but a very large open campsite next door.. eventually settled on a beach road south of Leptokarya, which seems to be full of weekend places for the well off.
Out of Volos and onto a decent non-fee paying motorway. After about 25 miles we turned right to head for the coast. Here the country has really changed. In the Peloponnese the only trees seem to olive trees. Around Nafplio 99% of trees appear to be orange trees (and they smell beautiful). Here there was not a tree to be seen and the land was absolutely flat, littered with flat villages and no doubt flat people.
But the mountains ahead soonproved a challenge. The road is good and the views were amazing. Sadly a little hazy, but still good views. The only car we saw as we drove over the mountains was drived by someone who must have bought his driving licence in 1930. His lane discipline was wonderful to watch but it deterred us even thinking of overtaking.
On the coast we wriggled our way through various villages and seaside resorts. But the sea looked a little murky and not with sand. Maybe nearby Thessaloniki has something to do with it.
We really struggled to find a Night Stop. At Kato Polydendri was a good PJ spot but it was a little early. It would have been the best spot of all. We drove on through Agiokampos, Velika, Kokkino Nero,
Stomio had some space, but a very large open campsite next door.. eventually settled on a beach road south of Leptokarya, which seems to be full of weekend places for the well off.
Leptokarya
Mount Olympus.
In the morning at Leptokarya we were lucky enough to see Mount Olympus. For days we have had a very heavy haze but today is much clearer. The Night Stop was OK even if it was on a road, but in season we would have been parked near a busy disco bar. There was also quite a lot of noise from Huey helicopters doing their exercises throughout the night. The town has a LIDL so we stocked up with fresh things before heading north in the direction of Thessoliniki. The road took us through the middle of the city. How do people do their shopping as there is nowhere to park?
On the road out of town we were held up for about 30 minutes. People were doing the Hungarian thing of driving down the hard shoulder because they are more important than the rest of us. But they made things worse because the road was littered with shattered glass from a truck that had lost its load. Luckily a road sweeper truck arrived and cleaned the lot up. Good man.
On the road out of town we were held up for about 30 minutes. People were doing the Hungarian thing of driving down the hard shoulder because they are more important than the rest of us. But they made things worse because the road was littered with shattered glass from a truck that had lost its load. Luckily a road sweeper truck arrived and cleaned the lot up. Good man.
Another Three Fingers
The siting of Greek motorways presents the unwary with a few problems. They are often built alongside an existing “A” road that may also be two carriageways. That in turn may have been built next to an old “B” road and in a town there will also be parallel streets. At Leptokarya there were 6 “roads” running parallel. Which one to take to avoid tolls? This becomes more of a problem because the SatNav frequently “thinks” it is on the wrong road. Should I really take a left on a Drive on the Right motorway!
We followed a very good road onto the Kassandra Peninsula. There are three fingers dangling down from Northern Greece: Kassandra in the West, Sithonia in the middle and the eastern one contains Mount Athos and lots of monks.
Women are not allowed on the Eastern finger. Even female animals are not allowed! Furthermore most men are not allowed without a great deal of vetting. Such h is the power of the Church in Greece. It should be noted that priests are civil servants and are paid by the government. We were told that they get between 40 and 50 thousand Euro a month. Not a bad job if you can get it.
We followed a very good road onto the Kassandra Peninsula. There are three fingers dangling down from Northern Greece: Kassandra in the West, Sithonia in the middle and the eastern one contains Mount Athos and lots of monks.
Women are not allowed on the Eastern finger. Even female animals are not allowed! Furthermore most men are not allowed without a great deal of vetting. Such h is the power of the Church in Greece. It should be noted that priests are civil servants and are paid by the government. We were told that they get between 40 and 50 thousand Euro a month. Not a bad job if you can get it.
Loutra
Kassandra was disappointing as virtually the whole coastline is built up with holiday apartments. But we found the cheapest diesel at an AP station; just €1.28.
We finally found a lovely village called Loutra in the south. It was lovely if you ignored the 500 holiday apartments and just looked at the 5 or 6 original houses.
The Tarnasos taverna was the oldest and had been very tastefully renovated. It also had free wifi.
We finally found a lovely village called Loutra in the south. It was lovely if you ignored the 500 holiday apartments and just looked at the 5 or 6 original houses.
The Tarnasos taverna was the oldest and had been very tastefully renovated. It also had free wifi.
Sethonia
On the Friday morning we set off for Sethonia. What a difference. Much more peaceful and lots of places to pull over and admire the view. We found a lovely shaded spot next to a closed taverna but were put off by the resident Albanians living in a disused railway carriage. For some reason they removed two large foam mattresses from the carriage and tried to stuff them into the boot. They then drove off with them dragging on the road behind them.
Just north of Torino is a wonderful beach with rocky outcrops at each end. The water is beautiful and the beach is made of tiny gravel, like rice grains. Once again we were put off by a group of gypsies who were asking for money... we drove on. Our next stop was just south of Torino to have a look at a Byzantine fortress. However access was not possible. There was also a Bulgarian motorhome and a couple of Bulgarian cars. If we want Bulgarian company we will go to Bulgaria.
A couple of kilometers further south we came upon Porto Koufo. We stopped at the coordinates given by Magbaz, or was it PeeJay? Right at the end of the pier and next to a tap. However we moved a little further to the right and parked on a quiet level road next to a memorial to the five victims of a Chinook accident. Next to it is a Bell 47G helicopter mounted on a steel pole.
Just north of Torino is a wonderful beach with rocky outcrops at each end. The water is beautiful and the beach is made of tiny gravel, like rice grains. Once again we were put off by a group of gypsies who were asking for money... we drove on. Our next stop was just south of Torino to have a look at a Byzantine fortress. However access was not possible. There was also a Bulgarian motorhome and a couple of Bulgarian cars. If we want Bulgarian company we will go to Bulgaria.
A couple of kilometers further south we came upon Porto Koufo. We stopped at the coordinates given by Magbaz, or was it PeeJay? Right at the end of the pier and next to a tap. However we moved a little further to the right and parked on a quiet level road next to a memorial to the five victims of a Chinook accident. Next to it is a Bell 47G helicopter mounted on a steel pole.
Saturday 27 April 2013
Crystal clear, azure blue and damned freezing.
On Saturday morning the weekend sailors started to arrive so we moved on to find a quiet beach. The eastern side of the peninsula had some good beaches but lacked any sort of atmosphere so we drove to “gypsie beach” and had a good paddle.
On our search for a good spot we saw plenty of billboards advertising the fact that the EU had given billions of Euros for various projects. None of them were noticeable.
After topping up our tans we returned to Porto Koufo to have a beer and a bit of fishing.
The beer and the ice cream dessert at O Faras taverna was good and they had free wifi. But the fishing was a waste of time. Maybe the fish don’t like boiled ham.
On our search for a good spot we saw plenty of billboards advertising the fact that the EU had given billions of Euros for various projects. None of them were noticeable.
After topping up our tans we returned to Porto Koufo to have a beer and a bit of fishing.
The beer and the ice cream dessert at O Faras taverna was good and they had free wifi. But the fishing was a waste of time. Maybe the fish don’t like boiled ham.
Sunday 28 April 2013
Small village, big tractors.
Kostas was out fishing again so we said our goodbyes to him and his dog Benito before starting up the eastern shore again. The roads were good, windy and wooded. On the slopes were low buildings for sheep but they were also sloping. It must make life awkward for the sheep unless they are like haggis and have the left legs shorter than the right. Very pleasant. One section of road was near the coast and we found a man filling scores of bottles with water from a roadside tap. He said it was a natural spring and he was collecting water for all the neighbours. We topped up ourselves.
A little further north at Ormos Panagios we saw a lovely wooden ship. Two masted square rigger. It’s probably for taking tourists around but it had character.
We drove through Larrisos and attempted to find a Night Stop posted on a website. However the road had been bulldozed and it was not possible to get through. But near the obstruction is a sports centre with plenty of level tarmac close to the beach. Not ideal, but if you are in need it would suffice.
We went back into town and shopped at Masoutis supermarket as LIDL was closed. It turned out to be a well stocked shop and worth visiting that brand again.
In Stratoni we found a good open space not far from the harbour. According to one posting we saw that it is official with toilets, showers and water and a charge. But we saw nothing.
The opposite end of town is a gold mine!
It was Sunday and after the siesta the local lads were out practising their drifting and wheelies on motorbikes. But according to the local fishermen the place is nice and safe. And it was.
In the evening the priest could be heard doing his Greek Orthodox service. He went on for almost 2 hours; a continuous drone through loudspeakers. But the mobile potato seller had a better amplifier.
A little further north at Ormos Panagios we saw a lovely wooden ship. Two masted square rigger. It’s probably for taking tourists around but it had character.
We drove through Larrisos and attempted to find a Night Stop posted on a website. However the road had been bulldozed and it was not possible to get through. But near the obstruction is a sports centre with plenty of level tarmac close to the beach. Not ideal, but if you are in need it would suffice.
We went back into town and shopped at Masoutis supermarket as LIDL was closed. It turned out to be a well stocked shop and worth visiting that brand again.
In Stratoni we found a good open space not far from the harbour. According to one posting we saw that it is official with toilets, showers and water and a charge. But we saw nothing.
The opposite end of town is a gold mine!
It was Sunday and after the siesta the local lads were out practising their drifting and wheelies on motorbikes. But according to the local fishermen the place is nice and safe. And it was.
In the evening the priest could be heard doing his Greek Orthodox service. He went on for almost 2 hours; a continuous drone through loudspeakers. But the mobile potato seller had a better amplifier.
Monday 29 April 2013
Part of the ruins at Philipi.
The road out of Stratoni was very pleasant following the coast. We passed Stagira, with an ancient fortified wall and Stavros with a good name. After that it seemed a good idea to take the motorway as it was free. But near to Akrogiali workmen were constructing toll booths. The motorway follows the route of the Via Egnatia, an ancient Roman route across Greece.
At Amigdaleonas we turned left towards Krinides and visited the ancient Roman site of Philipi. The site is well worth a visit as their is lots to see and most of it is recognisable. Plus there is not one mention of mythological beings!
It was here that St Paul stopped to address the people but was thrown into prison. After three years he was allowed out and he spoke again. The then people built a church. It is the first church in Europe. Interestingly it is square with an octagonal interior.
Back to the motorway and across the flat lands past Lake Vistonida and Vistoria bay where there are TWO churches on an island. We stopped for the night at Paralia Arogis, near Fanari, sandwiched between the sea and a lake. Sadly the interesting birds had flown and we were left with about 15 swans and a lot of mosquitoes.
At Amigdaleonas we turned left towards Krinides and visited the ancient Roman site of Philipi. The site is well worth a visit as their is lots to see and most of it is recognisable. Plus there is not one mention of mythological beings!
It was here that St Paul stopped to address the people but was thrown into prison. After three years he was allowed out and he spoke again. The then people built a church. It is the first church in Europe. Interestingly it is square with an octagonal interior.
Back to the motorway and across the flat lands past Lake Vistonida and Vistoria bay where there are TWO churches on an island. We stopped for the night at Paralia Arogis, near Fanari, sandwiched between the sea and a lake. Sadly the interesting birds had flown and we were left with about 15 swans and a lot of mosquitoes.
Tuesday 30 April 2013
Don and Maureen moved on before we got a photo... so here's a flower.
We attempted to avoid motorways to get to Maronia. That resulted in lots of detours. The first because the road became a dirt track and then because it crossed a river by ford. It looked wide and deep and suitable for Land Rovers and tractors, not motorhomes.
When we arrived at Maronia we saw the sign for the ancient theatre. This time it had the distance... 3 kilometer up a winding dirt road. We decided to give it a miss. So back around the mountain and took the motorway to Alexandroupoli. Just before the city was a massive new hospital and a LIDL. So we stocked up before arriving at the Municipal Campsite. The site is well presented and has most facilities. However the wifi is rubbish and then it switches off after 30 minutes. Quite a nuisance and SKYPE calls were a disaster.
The good thing was that we camped near to an English van. Who should be in it but Don Madge and his wife Maureen. They were just returning from Turkey having spent the winter in Fethiye.
Don is famous in motorhoming circles and contributes the sensible comments to the forums. He gave us lots of hints and tips about Turkey and even lent us his Turkish dongle so we can pick up the internet in Turkey. What a great guy. We feel honored to have met them both.
When we arrived at Maronia we saw the sign for the ancient theatre. This time it had the distance... 3 kilometer up a winding dirt road. We decided to give it a miss. So back around the mountain and took the motorway to Alexandroupoli. Just before the city was a massive new hospital and a LIDL. So we stocked up before arriving at the Municipal Campsite. The site is well presented and has most facilities. However the wifi is rubbish and then it switches off after 30 minutes. Quite a nuisance and SKYPE calls were a disaster.
The good thing was that we camped near to an English van. Who should be in it but Don Madge and his wife Maureen. They were just returning from Turkey having spent the winter in Fethiye.
Don is famous in motorhoming circles and contributes the sensible comments to the forums. He gave us lots of hints and tips about Turkey and even lent us his Turkish dongle so we can pick up the internet in Turkey. What a great guy. We feel honored to have met them both.
Wednesday 1 May 2013
May Day has been cancelled in Greece because this week is Holy Week. So May Day will be next Tuesday.
In the morning Judit and I drove to the giant new hospital to see if we could get a prescription for our medications. The hospital was almost deserted but we eventually found some helpful people in Casualty who wrote us a scrip. The local pharmacy dispensed it. We got one month’s medication for €13.50.
Back at the camp we were disappointed to find that Don and Maureen were leaving. It’s a hot day (31°C in the shade) and they have a 400 mile drive to Igoumenitsa. They are stopping half way.
So the rest of our day was spent in washing clothes, preparing the website and chatting with two Bulgarian lads in the next pitch. They are threatening to give us some Bulgarian firewater this evening. More details to follow!
We did drink a lot of raki and ate a lot of meat. It was a great evening, with lots of jokes.
The following evening we returned the favour and got rid of a bottle of whisky and some more raki. We must meet them again in Stara Zagora.
In the morning Judit and I drove to the giant new hospital to see if we could get a prescription for our medications. The hospital was almost deserted but we eventually found some helpful people in Casualty who wrote us a scrip. The local pharmacy dispensed it. We got one month’s medication for €13.50.
Back at the camp we were disappointed to find that Don and Maureen were leaving. It’s a hot day (31°C in the shade) and they have a 400 mile drive to Igoumenitsa. They are stopping half way.
So the rest of our day was spent in washing clothes, preparing the website and chatting with two Bulgarian lads in the next pitch. They are threatening to give us some Bulgarian firewater this evening. More details to follow!
We did drink a lot of raki and ate a lot of meat. It was a great evening, with lots of jokes.
The following evening we returned the favour and got rid of a bottle of whisky and some more raki. We must meet them again in Stara Zagora.
