2 May 2017. Start
Sorry for a long gap between updates. As some of you will know we have moved house and that takes time.
However on Monday May 1 we started out on another journey. This time it will be short.
We had a lovely break in the trip to Dover when we stopped at Ian's daughter and family in Northamptonshire. We even slept on the street which felt very peculiar as we've never done this before in the UK.
Sorry for a long gap between updates. As some of you will know we have moved house and that takes time.
However on Monday May 1 we started out on another journey. This time it will be short.
We had a lovely break in the trip to Dover when we stopped at Ian's daughter and family in Northamptonshire. We even slept on the street which felt very peculiar as we've never done this before in the UK.
Ingleborough, Yorkshire Dales.
3 May 2017. Dover
Nice easy run to Dover, but it wasn't easy for the traffic going the other direction. As we approached the Queen Elizabeth bridge we noticed that the traffic coming from the tunnels had stopped. Once over the bridge we kept an eye on the backlog approaching the tunnels. It went all the way back to Gravesend. We have no idea what caused the hold up.
Once in the Port of Dover we were told we were too early and to return in 90 minutes, so we left the Port and decided we'd have a look at the Port from the cliff top. What a convoluted way to get there, but we did it only to find that the road near the Coast Guard station was owned by the National Trust. Cheeky beggars wanted us to pay £7.00 just to look at the view. So we went to TESCO instead.
Back at the Port we were allowed to take an earlier ferry, which was fine by us. The crossing was a pleasure as usual with P&O. Amazingly it was very quiet on board. We were the only people in the restaurant getting our last top up of "pie, chips and beans"!
Approaching Calais we looked for the Aire we usually stop at but could not see one single motorhome and the building works seemed to be encroaching onto the Aire. Change of plan needed. Out came Google Earth and we found another Aire at Dunkirk-Malo. Good old Garmin kept telling me to go to the seafront but all the roads were closed (Well done Garmin, after spending nearly a week updating the maps!). We drove along the parallel road and luckily spotted the Aire sign. The entrance is not on the sea front but at the side of a block of flats. It was big enough and quiet enough so we stopped for the night.
Nice easy run to Dover, but it wasn't easy for the traffic going the other direction. As we approached the Queen Elizabeth bridge we noticed that the traffic coming from the tunnels had stopped. Once over the bridge we kept an eye on the backlog approaching the tunnels. It went all the way back to Gravesend. We have no idea what caused the hold up.
Once in the Port of Dover we were told we were too early and to return in 90 minutes, so we left the Port and decided we'd have a look at the Port from the cliff top. What a convoluted way to get there, but we did it only to find that the road near the Coast Guard station was owned by the National Trust. Cheeky beggars wanted us to pay £7.00 just to look at the view. So we went to TESCO instead.
Back at the Port we were allowed to take an earlier ferry, which was fine by us. The crossing was a pleasure as usual with P&O. Amazingly it was very quiet on board. We were the only people in the restaurant getting our last top up of "pie, chips and beans"!
Approaching Calais we looked for the Aire we usually stop at but could not see one single motorhome and the building works seemed to be encroaching onto the Aire. Change of plan needed. Out came Google Earth and we found another Aire at Dunkirk-Malo. Good old Garmin kept telling me to go to the seafront but all the roads were closed (Well done Garmin, after spending nearly a week updating the maps!). We drove along the parallel road and luckily spotted the Aire sign. The entrance is not on the sea front but at the side of a block of flats. It was big enough and quiet enough so we stopped for the night.
4 May 2017. Head South
An English couple told us they were driving past Arlon, our usual stop, to Pont a Mousson in France. We decided to give it a try. After an early start we drove to Ostend on the motorway and headed for Brussels.
At one of the service stations we found that we had to pay for the diesel before we used the pump. The cashier was very kind and explained that they had a lot of people leaving without paying so they introduced this system. Ian made a guess at €70.00 and then filled up. Ian only managed to put €50.00 worth of diesel in the tank, so back to the cashier with his receipt and she gave him back €20.00. A bit of a farce but she was kind and helpful.
We had a chat about our destination and she was concerned we were going to Greece. "What about the crisis?", she asked. It was clear that her TV news was not giving the whole story. We assured her that the troubles were nearly always in Athens and that was nearly always the same street. She also had no idea what the EU was doing to Greece. She thought that the EU money was going to help the poor people. I had to tell her that the poor people are losing their pensions and that the EU money went straight back from Greece to German banks. In fact the latest crisis after we arrived meant that pensions were dropping even further. Clearly, on a sample of one, the Belgians were not aware of the reality of the EU's actions.
Anyway, we passed Brussels and after a few hours found ourselves in Luxembourg where we topped up with cheap diesel. It came to €0.66 a litter compared with €0.98 in Ostend area. That is about £0.57 a litter in real money. We area always surprised about Luxembourg. People pay virtually no tax yet receive more money from the EU per head of population!
An English couple told us they were driving past Arlon, our usual stop, to Pont a Mousson in France. We decided to give it a try. After an early start we drove to Ostend on the motorway and headed for Brussels.
At one of the service stations we found that we had to pay for the diesel before we used the pump. The cashier was very kind and explained that they had a lot of people leaving without paying so they introduced this system. Ian made a guess at €70.00 and then filled up. Ian only managed to put €50.00 worth of diesel in the tank, so back to the cashier with his receipt and she gave him back €20.00. A bit of a farce but she was kind and helpful.
We had a chat about our destination and she was concerned we were going to Greece. "What about the crisis?", she asked. It was clear that her TV news was not giving the whole story. We assured her that the troubles were nearly always in Athens and that was nearly always the same street. She also had no idea what the EU was doing to Greece. She thought that the EU money was going to help the poor people. I had to tell her that the poor people are losing their pensions and that the EU money went straight back from Greece to German banks. In fact the latest crisis after we arrived meant that pensions were dropping even further. Clearly, on a sample of one, the Belgians were not aware of the reality of the EU's actions.
Anyway, we passed Brussels and after a few hours found ourselves in Luxembourg where we topped up with cheap diesel. It came to €0.66 a litter compared with €0.98 in Ostend area. That is about £0.57 a litter in real money. We area always surprised about Luxembourg. People pay virtually no tax yet receive more money from the EU per head of population!
Swans at Pont a Mousson
Another couple of hours and we were in Pont a Mousson. The locals seem to call it POM. The Aire is part of a large marina on the Moselle. Very pleasant and well organised with every facility including a restaurant. Cost was €9.50 a night for us.
Across the road is a Boulangerie (bread shop to Ian) where we bought our bread for the day; and very lovely it was too.
Across the road is a Boulangerie (bread shop to Ian) where we bought our bread for the day; and very lovely it was too.
5 May 2017. Through Switzerland
Although just off our route we were soon back on the motorway heading South. Within one hour we met our first toll. This was for a tunnel at St Marie aux Mines and cost €9.70 for the 7 kilometre trip through the Vosges mountains. We had told Garmin that we wanted toll free routes and after updating the maps it sent us this way. Well done Garmin. Some of us believe that map updates are only to update the POIs because those companies pay to be on the Sat Nav.
At the Swiss border near Basel we paid for our usual €32 ticket to drive any 10 days we wanted in the country for one year. One of the few benefits of having a larger motorhome. Switzerland looked beautiful compared the the foggy, wintery passage last year. We stopped at a Service Station just after Sempach and just before Lucerne for lunch and the purchase of a Swiss map. Judit like maps.
Although just off our route we were soon back on the motorway heading South. Within one hour we met our first toll. This was for a tunnel at St Marie aux Mines and cost €9.70 for the 7 kilometre trip through the Vosges mountains. We had told Garmin that we wanted toll free routes and after updating the maps it sent us this way. Well done Garmin. Some of us believe that map updates are only to update the POIs because those companies pay to be on the Sat Nav.
At the Swiss border near Basel we paid for our usual €32 ticket to drive any 10 days we wanted in the country for one year. One of the few benefits of having a larger motorhome. Switzerland looked beautiful compared the the foggy, wintery passage last year. We stopped at a Service Station just after Sempach and just before Lucerne for lunch and the purchase of a Swiss map. Judit like maps.
Switzerland from the motorway.
Now we had a long drive ahead of us. First we were held up nearing St Gotthard by several sets of traffic lights. It looked like the authorities were breaking up the traffic entering the 17 km long tunnel. We did begin to wonder just how much of our journey was underground as there are a lot of tunnels in Switzerland and Italy.
The southern side of the tunnel is still Switzerland but looks and sounds like Italy. Nevertheless we were soon in the real Italy and passing Milan. Here we decided to pay tolls. From experience we know that the non-toll roads are a nightmare of heavy traffic and roundabouts every 200 meters… or it just feels like that. From Milan to Bologna we paid €5.40 in tolls. But we also picked up a ticket for showing when we left the motorway in Bari.
It was a long drive that day but we were now on the Eastern side of Bologna so should have no trouble in the morning with commuters. Our stop was at an ENI Service Station which was packed with lorries bedding down for the night. Normally we don't like such places because of the higher risk of theft, but we were surrounded by tough looking truckers who look out for each other.
Although surrounded by trucks the night was very peaceful. In fact the noisiest thing was a Nightingale twittering away all night.
The southern side of the tunnel is still Switzerland but looks and sounds like Italy. Nevertheless we were soon in the real Italy and passing Milan. Here we decided to pay tolls. From experience we know that the non-toll roads are a nightmare of heavy traffic and roundabouts every 200 meters… or it just feels like that. From Milan to Bologna we paid €5.40 in tolls. But we also picked up a ticket for showing when we left the motorway in Bari.
It was a long drive that day but we were now on the Eastern side of Bologna so should have no trouble in the morning with commuters. Our stop was at an ENI Service Station which was packed with lorries bedding down for the night. Normally we don't like such places because of the higher risk of theft, but we were surrounded by tough looking truckers who look out for each other.
Although surrounded by trucks the night was very peaceful. In fact the noisiest thing was a Nightingale twittering away all night.
6 May 2017. Push to Bari
We began to worry that the Sunday crossing from Bari would be full and therefore decided to push things today to get to Bari. It certainly was a push because we drove nearly 700 km. (435 miles) stopping only for coffee and toilets. The toll from Bologna cost €65.00.
When we got to the booking office at Bari Port on Saturday the young lady told us that everything was fully booked until Tuesday evening. There was no choice so we booked for Tuesday evening. The price haggling was interesting because there is a discount if you are a camping club member. But she did not recognise ACSI. Luckily after a bit of discussion she accepted it. She did not notice that it was last year's card… phew. Our latest card will probably be in the UK.
We began to worry that the Sunday crossing from Bari would be full and therefore decided to push things today to get to Bari. It certainly was a push because we drove nearly 700 km. (435 miles) stopping only for coffee and toilets. The toll from Bologna cost €65.00.
When we got to the booking office at Bari Port on Saturday the young lady told us that everything was fully booked until Tuesday evening. There was no choice so we booked for Tuesday evening. The price haggling was interesting because there is a discount if you are a camping club member. But she did not recognise ACSI. Luckily after a bit of discussion she accepted it. She did not notice that it was last year's card… phew. Our latest card will probably be in the UK.
Approaching Alberobella.
Next problem… where to sleep. We had data on Google Earth of two possible stops but they were in the middle of Bari… no way!
Off we went for another hour's drive to Alberobello and stayed in a campsite just outside the town. The camp was pleasant and the staff pleasant and fun but it was let down by having to insert €0.50 to get hot water for a shower and having no seats on the toilets. Why?
Off we went for another hour's drive to Alberobello and stayed in a campsite just outside the town. The camp was pleasant and the staff pleasant and fun but it was let down by having to insert €0.50 to get hot water for a shower and having no seats on the toilets. Why?
7 May 2017. Take a chance
Just in case there was a cancellation we decided to go back to Bari on Sunday morning. First a trip into the lovely little "Trulli town" to get some cash from a hole in the wall. Back in Bari the same young lady was on duty and recognised us. Called us over and told us there was one place but we must hurry. Thanking her for her kindness we were rushed through the waiting trucks and up the steep ramps and behind another motorhome. Soon we were surrounded by trucks. Our quickest loading ever.
Departure was about 13-30. The weather was idyllic and we passed the crossing watching the waves and lounging around. The first leg was to Igoumenitsa and being Sunday was a daytime crossing. The food was well prepared and well presented.
Unloading at Igoumenitsa was a delight to witness… organised chaos.
Just in case there was a cancellation we decided to go back to Bari on Sunday morning. First a trip into the lovely little "Trulli town" to get some cash from a hole in the wall. Back in Bari the same young lady was on duty and recognised us. Called us over and told us there was one place but we must hurry. Thanking her for her kindness we were rushed through the waiting trucks and up the steep ramps and behind another motorhome. Soon we were surrounded by trucks. Our quickest loading ever.
Departure was about 13-30. The weather was idyllic and we passed the crossing watching the waves and lounging around. The first leg was to Igoumenitsa and being Sunday was a daytime crossing. The food was well prepared and well presented.
Unloading at Igoumenitsa was a delight to witness… organised chaos.
Very comfortable on-board camping.
Around 01-00 we set off again to Patras and this time we could sleep in the motorhome, but not for long; we were up at 04-30.
Camping on board is a new experience for us. It was well organised and we had an electric hook up for the fridge. In addition we were provided with passes which opened certain doors allowing us to go above to the passenger areas and back down to our motorhome.
Camping on board is a new experience for us. It was well organised and we had an electric hook up for the fridge. In addition we were provided with passes which opened certain doors allowing us to go above to the passenger areas and back down to our motorhome.
8 May 2017. Finikunda at Last
Amazingly the crossing to Patras is the same price as the crossing to Igoumenitsa. Who's complaining?
We were woken by the trusty iPad (and iPhone just in case) at 04-00 for unloading at 05-00. To be honest it was around 06-00 when we got off. It was an easy run through Patras at that early hour and soon we were on the main road heading South in the Peloponnese.
Pyrgos had a pleasant surprise as all the rubbish has been cleared. For the last three years the roads have been lined with rubbish bags. Presumably the dustbin man dispute has been resolved.
We had a shopping stop at LIDL North of Kyparissia and then a coffee stop in the town itself... outside in the sunshine!
Our next surprise was near Gargaliano. The new stretch of road has been opened and it avoids Agios Kiriaki, Lagkouvardos, Marathopoli, Pigadia, Rikia and Tragana… a fantastic time saver. So before very long we were driving on very familiar roads from Pylos, past Methoni and onto Camping Finikes at Finikunda
Amazingly the crossing to Patras is the same price as the crossing to Igoumenitsa. Who's complaining?
We were woken by the trusty iPad (and iPhone just in case) at 04-00 for unloading at 05-00. To be honest it was around 06-00 when we got off. It was an easy run through Patras at that early hour and soon we were on the main road heading South in the Peloponnese.
Pyrgos had a pleasant surprise as all the rubbish has been cleared. For the last three years the roads have been lined with rubbish bags. Presumably the dustbin man dispute has been resolved.
We had a shopping stop at LIDL North of Kyparissia and then a coffee stop in the town itself... outside in the sunshine!
Our next surprise was near Gargaliano. The new stretch of road has been opened and it avoids Agios Kiriaki, Lagkouvardos, Marathopoli, Pigadia, Rikia and Tragana… a fantastic time saver. So before very long we were driving on very familiar roads from Pylos, past Methoni and onto Camping Finikes at Finikunda
Ian enjoys a welcoming beer from Albert.
There was a right royal reception for us from Albert and Gabi, Erika and Hans and Rod. Rod had even saved our pitch with a traffic cone; which Ian unknowingly drove over and squashed.
What a delight to see our friends again.
What a delight to see our friends again.
Friends
Our stay in Finikes was very peaceful, only interrupted by long natters with Albert, Gabi and Rod. Our other friends, Rose and Alf, were busy for a while with visitors but we did manage to enjoy a meal out with them in Finikunda. The meal was at Mitilini Taverna next to Camping Thines. We were told it was a new owner. The food was simple but tasty.
As if proving our ages we spent a long time discussing the merits of different types of hearing aids! Which was rather strange because we certainly did not need them in the taverna. The guy playing the "bazooka" and singing was a real pain in the arse, so to speak. The sound was so loud that Alf and Ian were shouting to be heard each other just across the table. We asked for the music to be quietened a little but each time the "musician" turned it up louder. Guess who will not be eating there again.
Ian had an interesting diversion at the campsite. He became the unofficial chicken handler. Morning and evening he would visit the camp chicken run to ensure the hens had enough food and water and then collect the eggs. He was supposed to sell the eggs to the campers but he managed only to sell about one dozen
Our stay in Finikes was very peaceful, only interrupted by long natters with Albert, Gabi and Rod. Our other friends, Rose and Alf, were busy for a while with visitors but we did manage to enjoy a meal out with them in Finikunda. The meal was at Mitilini Taverna next to Camping Thines. We were told it was a new owner. The food was simple but tasty.
As if proving our ages we spent a long time discussing the merits of different types of hearing aids! Which was rather strange because we certainly did not need them in the taverna. The guy playing the "bazooka" and singing was a real pain in the arse, so to speak. The sound was so loud that Alf and Ian were shouting to be heard each other just across the table. We asked for the music to be quietened a little but each time the "musician" turned it up louder. Guess who will not be eating there again.
Ian had an interesting diversion at the campsite. He became the unofficial chicken handler. Morning and evening he would visit the camp chicken run to ensure the hens had enough food and water and then collect the eggs. He was supposed to sell the eggs to the campers but he managed only to sell about one dozen
Baby tortoise visits the camp.
One day we had a run out to Pylos to buy some steak from the good butcher. In fact we went to Pylos again another day to visit a stone merchant. He had some excellent looking sinks for clothes washing. Judit had a plan to take one back home. Unfortunately the deep one was too long and the smaller ones were too shallow.
Other runs out were down to Finikunda to the supermarket where they sell excellent Baked Beans by the Greek Canning Company (http://kyknoscanning.com/en/). They have a very large range of products and all that we have found are excellent quality. Sadly the Greek shops only seem to stock sweetcorn and mushrooms in cans. We are lucky that the Finikunda shop has been encouraged to keep a stock of the Baked Beans. This is much appreciated by all the Brit locals. and Ian.
Our trips were also a great opportunity to visit Gardenia Taverna for a frappe or two.
Other runs out were down to Finikunda to the supermarket where they sell excellent Baked Beans by the Greek Canning Company (http://kyknoscanning.com/en/). They have a very large range of products and all that we have found are excellent quality. Sadly the Greek shops only seem to stock sweetcorn and mushrooms in cans. We are lucky that the Finikunda shop has been encouraged to keep a stock of the Baked Beans. This is much appreciated by all the Brit locals. and Ian.
Our trips were also a great opportunity to visit Gardenia Taverna for a frappe or two.
Good to be back at friendly Gardenia cafe for a frappe.
Dog Courier
Our last few days at Finikes were enlivened by a new puppy. Andrea, who runs the reception at Finikes, is actively involved in a dog rescue organisation. The plan was for Albert and Gabi to take a puppy all the way to Holland and hand it over to the new owner on the Baltic Sea. Mio was a delightful puppy and he enjoyed romping with a couple of the camp dogs at every opportunity.
Our last few days at Finikes were enlivened by a new puppy. Andrea, who runs the reception at Finikes, is actively involved in a dog rescue organisation. The plan was for Albert and Gabi to take a puppy all the way to Holland and hand it over to the new owner on the Baltic Sea. Mio was a delightful puppy and he enjoyed romping with a couple of the camp dogs at every opportunity.
Albert and Gabi get to know Mio.
Finally on the 19th of May Albert, Gabi and Mio left for home. The camp seemed very empty after that. They very kindly extended their stay by one week to stay with us a bit longer. We thank you both.
North to Hungary
On the following Friday, 26 May 2017, we also left Finikes. One of Judit's uncles is 95 and there is a big family gathering in Budapest to celebrate the occasion. We have to attend of course.
After stopping in Pylos for a bit of veg shopping we motored on to LIDL at Messini for a few alcoholic beverages. Then it was motorway all the way stopping only to pay the excessive number of tolls and other stops for coffee and lunch. Our route took us past Megalopoli, Tripoli and Corinth.
We seemed to make such good time that we drove past Athens easily. At Lamia we took the newly constructed road past the town and through two or three tunnels. Shortly after we turned off and stopped for the night at Achillio where we know of a good peaceful Night Stop.
We were recognised by Sikos, the man whom lives on the corner opposite our stop, and had a good chat.
Another local called Dimitri recognised us on his way for an evening beer. On his return journey he had a flower for Judit. That's the second time he has done this… it's becoming a habit.
On the following Friday, 26 May 2017, we also left Finikes. One of Judit's uncles is 95 and there is a big family gathering in Budapest to celebrate the occasion. We have to attend of course.
After stopping in Pylos for a bit of veg shopping we motored on to LIDL at Messini for a few alcoholic beverages. Then it was motorway all the way stopping only to pay the excessive number of tolls and other stops for coffee and lunch. Our route took us past Megalopoli, Tripoli and Corinth.
We seemed to make such good time that we drove past Athens easily. At Lamia we took the newly constructed road past the town and through two or three tunnels. Shortly after we turned off and stopped for the night at Achillio where we know of a good peaceful Night Stop.
We were recognised by Sikos, the man whom lives on the corner opposite our stop, and had a good chat.
Another local called Dimitri recognised us on his way for an evening beer. On his return journey he had a flower for Judit. That's the second time he has done this… it's becoming a habit.
Early morning at Achillio.
New Tunnels new roads
Ian had a plan. We would skip breakfast and stop at a Goody's for a proper breakfast. Goody's is the Greek equivalent of McDonalds…. but better. The nearest one on our route was closed and they would not open until 11-00. That was the end of breakfast.
Our next stage had a pleasant surprise in store. North of Larissa is a pass between the mountains. We call it the Pyrgetos Pass but it probably has another name. Anyway, we no longer go on the narrow road as there is a new road with several tunnels that by-passes the narrow section.
The weather was overcast and Olympos could not be seen at all. After Aiginio we were in the delta of three rivers and here there are many rice paddies… a strange thing to see in Europe. It was from this point that the motorway lost its smoothness. From Thessaloniki northwards the area seems to have been neglected by the government regarding road maintenance.
That is, except for a new motorway being constructed. We decided to call in a small town Provatas to use their ATM. The new motorway allowed us to enter the town. However there was no way to return in a southerly direction. The town road took us to the motorway but there was only a junction that forced us to continue northward towards Serres.
The Greek motorway constructors do not seem to consider the needs of locals. In many places there was a perfectly good service station on the road alongside the motorway. But the crash barrier blocks any attempt to call in. It would be a simple matter to open the barriers to allow use of these possible stops. Now the poor owner is losing business and we saw several that were clearly abandoned.
Anyway, in Serres we bought he cheapest diesel in Greece (€1.17 per liter) before making our way cross country to Lake Kerkini. We stopped at our favourite place, Elodia Taverna, and we were very warmly welcomed by the owners. What lovely people. That evening we enjoyed water buffalo steaks for our dinner. Excellent.
Ian had a plan. We would skip breakfast and stop at a Goody's for a proper breakfast. Goody's is the Greek equivalent of McDonalds…. but better. The nearest one on our route was closed and they would not open until 11-00. That was the end of breakfast.
Our next stage had a pleasant surprise in store. North of Larissa is a pass between the mountains. We call it the Pyrgetos Pass but it probably has another name. Anyway, we no longer go on the narrow road as there is a new road with several tunnels that by-passes the narrow section.
The weather was overcast and Olympos could not be seen at all. After Aiginio we were in the delta of three rivers and here there are many rice paddies… a strange thing to see in Europe. It was from this point that the motorway lost its smoothness. From Thessaloniki northwards the area seems to have been neglected by the government regarding road maintenance.
That is, except for a new motorway being constructed. We decided to call in a small town Provatas to use their ATM. The new motorway allowed us to enter the town. However there was no way to return in a southerly direction. The town road took us to the motorway but there was only a junction that forced us to continue northward towards Serres.
The Greek motorway constructors do not seem to consider the needs of locals. In many places there was a perfectly good service station on the road alongside the motorway. But the crash barrier blocks any attempt to call in. It would be a simple matter to open the barriers to allow use of these possible stops. Now the poor owner is losing business and we saw several that were clearly abandoned.
Anyway, in Serres we bought he cheapest diesel in Greece (€1.17 per liter) before making our way cross country to Lake Kerkini. We stopped at our favourite place, Elodia Taverna, and we were very warmly welcomed by the owners. What lovely people. That evening we enjoyed water buffalo steaks for our dinner. Excellent.
Elodia Taverna at Lake Kerkini now have some very friendly deer.
FYROM (pronounced "fee-rom")
As much as we would like to, we could not stop long at Elodia Taverna. Budapest beckoned. This time we decided we would travel through the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (or Macedonia if you wish to annoy the Greeks) instead of Bulgaria. The journey from Kerkini was an easy 30 minutes. Border formalities were easy but we had to pay €55 for a Green Card insurance; a bit excessive for a morning's drive. We stood around for 20 minutes waiting for the Customs Man to let us go. Finally it became clear that he thought we were waiting for the Green Card. We received an apology, which was nice.
The scenery in FYROM (Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) is very pleasant with mountains around capped with the low cloud we've been suffering for several day. But as the journey progressed the sky began to clear and we soon warmed up.
The route follows that of the British Forces in the final days of the Yugoslav conflict. They headed for Skopje to assist the ethnic Albanians. They had little trouble as the Ghurkas were in the hills ensuring no idiot tried to ambush the convoy.
As much as we would like to, we could not stop long at Elodia Taverna. Budapest beckoned. This time we decided we would travel through the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (or Macedonia if you wish to annoy the Greeks) instead of Bulgaria. The journey from Kerkini was an easy 30 minutes. Border formalities were easy but we had to pay €55 for a Green Card insurance; a bit excessive for a morning's drive. We stood around for 20 minutes waiting for the Customs Man to let us go. Finally it became clear that he thought we were waiting for the Green Card. We received an apology, which was nice.
The scenery in FYROM (Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia) is very pleasant with mountains around capped with the low cloud we've been suffering for several day. But as the journey progressed the sky began to clear and we soon warmed up.
The route follows that of the British Forces in the final days of the Yugoslav conflict. They headed for Skopje to assist the ethnic Albanians. They had little trouble as the Ghurkas were in the hills ensuring no idiot tried to ambush the convoy.
FYROM motorway... a major attraction.
Our memory of FYROM is of the bad roads. Even the motorways are terrible. Somebody did not spend his EU money on good foundations. More to the point, the EU morons did not control the project. Whole sections were crumbling and very bumpy. Even worse there were sections with ripples. Not like a washboard, but more like waves on the sea. Bessy dives into one hollow. The springs react and push us up just as the road rises. Before you know it you are airborne before crashing back down into the next hollow.
At one of the toll booths Judit pointed out to the money collector that FYROM has some terrible roads. He answered in perfect English, "Welcome to the Balkans. They are a major attraction." They are certainly memorable and Bessy suffered because of it. A clunky sound could be heard from the suspension when we hit yet another bump. Worrying.
At one of the toll booths Judit pointed out to the money collector that FYROM has some terrible roads. He answered in perfect English, "Welcome to the Balkans. They are a major attraction." They are certainly memorable and Bessy suffered because of it. A clunky sound could be heard from the suspension when we hit yet another bump. Worrying.
Serbia smoothies
By comparison Serbian roads were much better. Not wonderful everywhere but definitely better. We made good time and stopped for the evening at a service station called Aleksandar. One of the best service stations we have ever stopped at. Staff were on duty 24 hours keeping an eye on the parking and security of the vehicles, both trucks and cars. There was a well stocked shop, a tyre service area and a wonderful restaurant.
We relaxed with a beer before ordering a meal. Ian had steak and chips with a mushroom sauce. Very tender and very tasty. Judit wanted some local dish so ordered the "sausage and chips". It had a Serbian name of course. Each sausage was a good 18 cm long and as thick as a man's thumb. Much to Judit's surprise her plate contained 10 of these tasty morsels. Luckily the staff understood "doggy bag" and the spares came in useful next day.
By comparison Serbian roads were much better. Not wonderful everywhere but definitely better. We made good time and stopped for the evening at a service station called Aleksandar. One of the best service stations we have ever stopped at. Staff were on duty 24 hours keeping an eye on the parking and security of the vehicles, both trucks and cars. There was a well stocked shop, a tyre service area and a wonderful restaurant.
We relaxed with a beer before ordering a meal. Ian had steak and chips with a mushroom sauce. Very tender and very tasty. Judit wanted some local dish so ordered the "sausage and chips". It had a Serbian name of course. Each sausage was a good 18 cm long and as thick as a man's thumb. Much to Judit's surprise her plate contained 10 of these tasty morsels. Luckily the staff understood "doggy bag" and the spares came in useful next day.
Proof. Serbian Roads are smoother.
People tell us that the diesel is cheaper in Serbia than Hungary so we took a route through Subotica and topped up. As before we were able to pay in Euros and get our change in Euros.
Subotica is not far from the Hungarian border where Bessy was examined for illegal immigrants. One of the Customs men asked if he could take photos because his girlfriend wants a motorhome…of course he could.
Three hours later we were in Almadi on the North side of Lake Balaton and in time for Ernö's 95th Birthday Party.
Subotica is not far from the Hungarian border where Bessy was examined for illegal immigrants. One of the Customs men asked if he could take photos because his girlfriend wants a motorhome…of course he could.
Three hours later we were in Almadi on the North side of Lake Balaton and in time for Ernö's 95th Birthday Party.
Happy Birthday Ernö.
Repairs
The extractor fan in the "kitchen" part of Bessy has stopped working. The "bathroom" door hangs on runners. One runner has come free from the wood of the door. Was it because of Macedonian roads? The local caravan service did not offer much assistance, saying it is an English motorhome!
The Fiat Garage in Siofok (Kovacs Auto Kft) were more helpful when we asked if they could repair a faulty wheel bearing and investigate the metallic clunk. An appointment was made for a few days later. The young man at reception (Balogh Balint) was very helpful. Ian's Hungarian and Balint's English soon sorted the job. It meant Ian had to hang around from 0800 to 1500. The clunk was a random nothingness and the wheel bearing and a scratched brake disc were changed. We noted that the hourly rate for the work was about £17.50 per hour! Beat that in the UK.
The extractor fan in the "kitchen" part of Bessy has stopped working. The "bathroom" door hangs on runners. One runner has come free from the wood of the door. Was it because of Macedonian roads? The local caravan service did not offer much assistance, saying it is an English motorhome!
The Fiat Garage in Siofok (Kovacs Auto Kft) were more helpful when we asked if they could repair a faulty wheel bearing and investigate the metallic clunk. An appointment was made for a few days later. The young man at reception (Balogh Balint) was very helpful. Ian's Hungarian and Balint's English soon sorted the job. It meant Ian had to hang around from 0800 to 1500. The clunk was a random nothingness and the wheel bearing and a scratched brake disc were changed. We noted that the hourly rate for the work was about £17.50 per hour! Beat that in the UK.
Fiat Service in Siofok. N 46° 53.868', E 18° 3.123'
Back to UK
We left Hungary sooner than normal because we have work to do on the house.
Our route took us through Austria. Because the greedy politicians have introduced a "Go-Box" system for vehicles over 3.5 tonnes we did not use the motorways. So now traffic clogs up the small roads… do politicians have to take an IQ test? They should.
From Liezen in Austria we drove all the way to Herzogenrauch. It rained all the way. Ian has put every aire, stellplatz, etc onto Google Earth and it is proving most useful. We have most of them on the new Garmin but the idiots at Garmin have "updated" the system so the "Favourites" do not display unless you have searched for it in the list and then selected it before returning to the screen. That involves 14 presses of buttons before returning to the map. You probably find that the aire/stellplatz nearest to your position is not appropriate because it is behind you. You then have to search again. The old system showed all favourites on the map. We thought that the SatNav was supposed to help travellers. Idiots.
We left Hungary sooner than normal because we have work to do on the house.
Our route took us through Austria. Because the greedy politicians have introduced a "Go-Box" system for vehicles over 3.5 tonnes we did not use the motorways. So now traffic clogs up the small roads… do politicians have to take an IQ test? They should.
From Liezen in Austria we drove all the way to Herzogenrauch. It rained all the way. Ian has put every aire, stellplatz, etc onto Google Earth and it is proving most useful. We have most of them on the new Garmin but the idiots at Garmin have "updated" the system so the "Favourites" do not display unless you have searched for it in the list and then selected it before returning to the screen. That involves 14 presses of buttons before returning to the map. You probably find that the aire/stellplatz nearest to your position is not appropriate because it is behind you. You then have to search again. The old system showed all favourites on the map. We thought that the SatNav was supposed to help travellers. Idiots.
It rained for 3 days through Austria and Germany. UK is not always wet.
In the morning we drove to the Moselle Valley with a plan to visit Eltz Castle. Germany's roads are in a bit of a mess as almost every viaduct appears to have concrete rot. We went through 13 major roadworks to prove it. The afternoon became sunny and the valley looked beautiful. Some of the vineyards are on slopes that defy gravity. How do the pickers keep their feet?
We found a Night Stop but were not happy with the location even though the coordinates are in a book… one of those feelings. Sure enough the real place was a few hundred yards away.
The journey to the Eltz Castle in the morning was very easy. It is really lovely. For some non-military reason the castle is in a valley which means a steep walk down and a steep walk back up to the car park. However Ian was able to indulge himself with a classic Currywurst and Frites. Wow. The shuttle bus was worth a Euro on the way back. Eltz Castle is really worth a visit and the guided tour was excellent. The young man put some fun into the presentation. Who said Germans have no sense of humour.
We found a Night Stop but were not happy with the location even though the coordinates are in a book… one of those feelings. Sure enough the real place was a few hundred yards away.
The journey to the Eltz Castle in the morning was very easy. It is really lovely. For some non-military reason the castle is in a valley which means a steep walk down and a steep walk back up to the car park. However Ian was able to indulge himself with a classic Currywurst and Frites. Wow. The shuttle bus was worth a Euro on the way back. Eltz Castle is really worth a visit and the guided tour was excellent. The young man put some fun into the presentation. Who said Germans have no sense of humour.
Eltz Castle.
Belgium
Onwards to Brugge. It was a long run because of a shortage of stellplatz. In fact there was shortage of service stations as well. The Autobahns are not as good as many people think. There are lots of them but the services are unreliable. Sometimes they are open but do not sell fuel. You have to pay for a pee. Sometimes there are no services or they are many miles apart. But on the good side, those that are open sell decent food and you can park for the night.
We walked around Brugge until about 16-00. There is a lot to see. There was a good exhibition of Flemish Primitive art. Calling the art primitive is crazy. The paintings are beautiful. Lunch of loempia and frites was an expensive disaster. The restaurants were cashing in on the tourist crowds.
After a walk in the drizzle to get back to Bessy we had a peaceful night in the aire.
Onwards to Brugge. It was a long run because of a shortage of stellplatz. In fact there was shortage of service stations as well. The Autobahns are not as good as many people think. There are lots of them but the services are unreliable. Sometimes they are open but do not sell fuel. You have to pay for a pee. Sometimes there are no services or they are many miles apart. But on the good side, those that are open sell decent food and you can park for the night.
We walked around Brugge until about 16-00. There is a lot to see. There was a good exhibition of Flemish Primitive art. Calling the art primitive is crazy. The paintings are beautiful. Lunch of loempia and frites was an expensive disaster. The restaurants were cashing in on the tourist crowds.
After a walk in the drizzle to get back to Bessy we had a peaceful night in the aire.
A Flemish Primitive painting of Jasper Carrot !
France
In the morning we drove to Calais. As mentioned earlier, the old aire has gone. There is a new aire in Calais (see Night Stops page for details). Sadly there are no frites huts so a cheap and cheerful meal was out of the question. The aire itself is OK but isolated. It also has a very strange entry system that means you have to bend almost double, or get on your knees, to read the display. Then you have to enter your number plate. Payment by card only. It is even more irritating because there is a brand new office staffed with 2 or 3 people who could take the money. Not sure what they do in their nice new building. We know that one man had to stand next to the strange machine to help people to get out of the aire. It is not easy.
Luckily we had booked our P&O ferry while still in Hungary. It's much cheaper to book ahead than turn up at the door. Also P&O from Calais is now about half the price of DFDS in Dunkirk. In the past it has been the other way around. The crossing was good and we were soon in the UK and making our way North to our new home.
A good trip but a short one.
In the morning we drove to Calais. As mentioned earlier, the old aire has gone. There is a new aire in Calais (see Night Stops page for details). Sadly there are no frites huts so a cheap and cheerful meal was out of the question. The aire itself is OK but isolated. It also has a very strange entry system that means you have to bend almost double, or get on your knees, to read the display. Then you have to enter your number plate. Payment by card only. It is even more irritating because there is a brand new office staffed with 2 or 3 people who could take the money. Not sure what they do in their nice new building. We know that one man had to stand next to the strange machine to help people to get out of the aire. It is not easy.
Luckily we had booked our P&O ferry while still in Hungary. It's much cheaper to book ahead than turn up at the door. Also P&O from Calais is now about half the price of DFDS in Dunkirk. In the past it has been the other way around. The crossing was good and we were soon in the UK and making our way North to our new home.
A good trip but a short one.
Entry system designed by 20 people who never had a motorhome... and never actually met each other.
