Greece 2018 to 2019
Our track for 2018/19 trip.
True.
Tuesday 4 December 2018
Depart
After bidding farewell to our neighbours and having a quick lunch we finally got under way at 13-30. Our route from home to Hull passed our good friend Pat, so we stopped for coffee and a chat. Then back onto the M62 to Hull.
It’s been many years since Ian used the Hull Rotterdam route so we were really on “new” ground.
One bad thing about an evening departure is the fact that we hit the Hull rush hour. Not as bad as the M25 but busy none the less. We found the docks just fine and it seemed to be deserted except for a very large ship. No queues waiting to board, no trucks jostling for position, just a lone lady in a Hi-Vis jacket.
She checked our tickets and directed us to the ship. Straight on, no messing.
We were surprised to find that the ship was a rear loader, much like the Bari to Greece ferries. The difference was size. We were directed down the port half of the deck and to our surprise we then had to do a U-turn to drive to the starboard side. If Ian had known this would happen he would have driven well to the left but the loader kept indicating right so Ian got in the righthand lane. At the U-turn we had to perform a 7-point turn to get round the corner. Luckily there was no rush and no crowds.
Once parked we made our way to the passenger decks… with a lift thank goodness. We were then directed to our cabin which turned out to be quite good. Small but perfectly formed as they say. Two bunks (Ian was sent to the top one), a bathroom with toilet shower and washbasin. Excellent.
Depart
After bidding farewell to our neighbours and having a quick lunch we finally got under way at 13-30. Our route from home to Hull passed our good friend Pat, so we stopped for coffee and a chat. Then back onto the M62 to Hull.
It’s been many years since Ian used the Hull Rotterdam route so we were really on “new” ground.
One bad thing about an evening departure is the fact that we hit the Hull rush hour. Not as bad as the M25 but busy none the less. We found the docks just fine and it seemed to be deserted except for a very large ship. No queues waiting to board, no trucks jostling for position, just a lone lady in a Hi-Vis jacket.
She checked our tickets and directed us to the ship. Straight on, no messing.
We were surprised to find that the ship was a rear loader, much like the Bari to Greece ferries. The difference was size. We were directed down the port half of the deck and to our surprise we then had to do a U-turn to drive to the starboard side. If Ian had known this would happen he would have driven well to the left but the loader kept indicating right so Ian got in the righthand lane. At the U-turn we had to perform a 7-point turn to get round the corner. Luckily there was no rush and no crowds.
Once parked we made our way to the passenger decks… with a lift thank goodness. We were then directed to our cabin which turned out to be quite good. Small but perfectly formed as they say. Two bunks (Ian was sent to the top one), a bathroom with toilet shower and washbasin. Excellent.
Cabin. Hull to Rotterdam
In a way the ferry was like a mini-cruise. There was a live stage show… pop music only, a casino, a restaurant and a coffee shop, and lots of lounges.
The big disappointment was the catering. There were only three choices of restaurant. The first was the Club Class restaurant and was very expensive. The second was more normal but also expensive. This restaurant was basically a “carvery” and eat as much as you like. So on the face of it £22.50 would be a fair price. We had eaten earlier and only wanted a snack. The only option left for us was the coffee shop Starbucks. Guess what... they served coffee.
But luckily they had 4 meat pies on display so we opted for one each. It was very tasty but cost £6.00 each.
The other over priced meal was breakfast at £13.50 a head. The price was the same whatever you ate making it a very expensive coffee and a cereal breakfast. Instead we went back to Starbucks and had two coffees, one croissant and one Danish pastry. Cost £12.00.
Next time we will self cater and carry a flask and sandwiches.
It’s worth noting that the cross channel ferries are cheaper and have a broader selection of restaurants, even if they are owned by the same company, P&O.
Shopping on board was more expensive than our Skipton branch of Morrisons. No duty-free of course.
The big disappointment was the catering. There were only three choices of restaurant. The first was the Club Class restaurant and was very expensive. The second was more normal but also expensive. This restaurant was basically a “carvery” and eat as much as you like. So on the face of it £22.50 would be a fair price. We had eaten earlier and only wanted a snack. The only option left for us was the coffee shop Starbucks. Guess what... they served coffee.
But luckily they had 4 meat pies on display so we opted for one each. It was very tasty but cost £6.00 each.
The other over priced meal was breakfast at £13.50 a head. The price was the same whatever you ate making it a very expensive coffee and a cereal breakfast. Instead we went back to Starbucks and had two coffees, one croissant and one Danish pastry. Cost £12.00.
Next time we will self cater and carry a flask and sandwiches.
It’s worth noting that the cross channel ferries are cheaper and have a broader selection of restaurants, even if they are owned by the same company, P&O.
Shopping on board was more expensive than our Skipton branch of Morrisons. No duty-free of course.
5 December 2018
Phew, Rotterdam port is big.
We drove a long way before we felt to be out of the city. Then we had a leisurely drive across Nederland and into Germany. Our first Night Stop was at a Stellplatz in Baunatal near Kassel. Reading the notice board it seems it is a campsite costing €5.00 a night with a minimum of 3 nights. Luckily it was out of season and no one came for the money.
We had kept several one Euro coins for electricity hookups but found that in Baunatal we could only insert 50 cent coins. We didn’t have any so used the on-board batteries. That’s when we found they were not holding a charge. OK, plod on.
Phew, Rotterdam port is big.
We drove a long way before we felt to be out of the city. Then we had a leisurely drive across Nederland and into Germany. Our first Night Stop was at a Stellplatz in Baunatal near Kassel. Reading the notice board it seems it is a campsite costing €5.00 a night with a minimum of 3 nights. Luckily it was out of season and no one came for the money.
We had kept several one Euro coins for electricity hookups but found that in Baunatal we could only insert 50 cent coins. We didn’t have any so used the on-board batteries. That’s when we found they were not holding a charge. OK, plod on.
6 December 2018
Cool Passau
The A7 and the A1 were both very busy autobahns made worse by roadworks every 40 or 50 kilometers. We arrived in Passau at evening rush hour. It was dark and raining and we missed the turning for the Stellplatz we know. That meant a tour around the one way system of Passau to the parking near the station.
The parking is for busses, trucks and motorhomes. No hookup, no water but you have to pay €9.00 in the multi-story car park on leaving. We had a walk to the station where there is an ATM and Ian took out some cash.
In the evening we realised that we really do have a problem with leisure batteries as we had no lighting and no gas heating. It was a cool night.
Cool Passau
The A7 and the A1 were both very busy autobahns made worse by roadworks every 40 or 50 kilometers. We arrived in Passau at evening rush hour. It was dark and raining and we missed the turning for the Stellplatz we know. That meant a tour around the one way system of Passau to the parking near the station.
The parking is for busses, trucks and motorhomes. No hookup, no water but you have to pay €9.00 in the multi-story car park on leaving. We had a walk to the station where there is an ATM and Ian took out some cash.
In the evening we realised that we really do have a problem with leisure batteries as we had no lighting and no gas heating. It was a cool night.
7 December 2018
Trans Austria
We have mentioned before that Bessy is 3.8 tonnes. Anything over 3.5 tonnes must have a “go-box” in Austria. You buy the electronic box, load it with money and drive around on Austrian motorways. For us to cross Austria to Hungary by motorway would cost us at least €110.00 plus the cost of the box. For a lorry it’s not a problem as he can pass the cost on to a customer. Motorhoming tourists cannot pass the cost on. Very shortsighted and greedy of the Austrians.
Therefore when we left Passau we drove on the non-motorway roads. Generally we prefer not to use motorways but when in a hurry motorways are excellent. We take our time and avoid giving Austria any of our pension.
The journey started in fog and we saw small areas of snow but the fog cleared and the rest of the day was nice and sunny. There was a bit of a hold up in Linz. A poor lorry driver had got himself in a fix at a tight turn and it took a while for him to extricate himself.
After Linz we paralleled the motorway to Baden and then headed for the Sopron crossing into Hungary. The roadworks in Sopron delayed us for about 30 minutes but soon we were on the way to Hegykö.
Trans Austria
We have mentioned before that Bessy is 3.8 tonnes. Anything over 3.5 tonnes must have a “go-box” in Austria. You buy the electronic box, load it with money and drive around on Austrian motorways. For us to cross Austria to Hungary by motorway would cost us at least €110.00 plus the cost of the box. For a lorry it’s not a problem as he can pass the cost on to a customer. Motorhoming tourists cannot pass the cost on. Very shortsighted and greedy of the Austrians.
Therefore when we left Passau we drove on the non-motorway roads. Generally we prefer not to use motorways but when in a hurry motorways are excellent. We take our time and avoid giving Austria any of our pension.
The journey started in fog and we saw small areas of snow but the fog cleared and the rest of the day was nice and sunny. There was a bit of a hold up in Linz. A poor lorry driver had got himself in a fix at a tight turn and it took a while for him to extricate himself.
After Linz we paralleled the motorway to Baden and then headed for the Sopron crossing into Hungary. The roadworks in Sopron delayed us for about 30 minutes but soon we were on the way to Hegykö.
Delicious food at Tornacos Etterem, Hegykö
Hegykö is a small village with thermal baths and a campsite called SARA open all year. The friendly girl at reception told us to park where we like, so we did. Quite a lot of Germans and Austrians already parked ready for a health-giving dip in smelly water… they like that sort of thing.
Almost opposite the campsite is Tornácos Restaurant. One of the best restaurants we’ve eaten in for a long time. Very clean and tidy with attentive staff and a very extensive menu. Judit had the duck breast with sautéed red cabbage, wild mushrooms and crushed potatoes. Ian enjoyed the chicken breast roll Tornacos style in a golden breadcrumb coating filled with ham, cheese and green peas, served with steamed rice and chips. The food was really well cooked and well presented. And much better value for money than the P&O ferry; cost €22.00 for both of us including two drinks.
The camp had very nice hot showers. We took advantage of them.
Almost opposite the campsite is Tornácos Restaurant. One of the best restaurants we’ve eaten in for a long time. Very clean and tidy with attentive staff and a very extensive menu. Judit had the duck breast with sautéed red cabbage, wild mushrooms and crushed potatoes. Ian enjoyed the chicken breast roll Tornacos style in a golden breadcrumb coating filled with ham, cheese and green peas, served with steamed rice and chips. The food was really well cooked and well presented. And much better value for money than the P&O ferry; cost €22.00 for both of us including two drinks.
The camp had very nice hot showers. We took advantage of them.
Battery inside. Do have a look now and then!
8 December 2018
To Budapest and embarrassment
For some reason we awoke at 06-30 and therefore had an early start to Budapest, using the M86, M85 and M1. But first we had to stop for diesel and buy the Hungarian vignette… which is not a vignette. Everything is done electronically. At least in Hungary we are not treated like a commercial vehicle so the price is lower than a truck but higher than a car.
Our first stop in Budapest was Hollako, the excellent caravan sales and service just behind Tesco. A very friendly and helpful man had a look at our “sealed for life” leisure batteries. Oh, how embarrassing. They were not sealed as the sales team said when we bought Bessy. They were absolutely dry and Judit had to go to the car spares shop next door to buy 5 litres of de-ionised water. She then had to go back and buy another 5 litres! At least they provided power for nearly 10 years.
We accepted our mistake and did not write lengthy letters or threaten legal action against the sales team.
To Budapest and embarrassment
For some reason we awoke at 06-30 and therefore had an early start to Budapest, using the M86, M85 and M1. But first we had to stop for diesel and buy the Hungarian vignette… which is not a vignette. Everything is done electronically. At least in Hungary we are not treated like a commercial vehicle so the price is lower than a truck but higher than a car.
Our first stop in Budapest was Hollako, the excellent caravan sales and service just behind Tesco. A very friendly and helpful man had a look at our “sealed for life” leisure batteries. Oh, how embarrassing. They were not sealed as the sales team said when we bought Bessy. They were absolutely dry and Judit had to go to the car spares shop next door to buy 5 litres of de-ionised water. She then had to go back and buy another 5 litres! At least they provided power for nearly 10 years.
We accepted our mistake and did not write lengthy letters or threaten legal action against the sales team.
Finally we were on the road again and went direct to Niche Camping in Buda where we were given a welcome drink of gluh wine. Then we sorted ourselves out, plugged in the electricity and left the batteries charging while we went to see Judit’s sister and niece for dinner. She had cooked delicious hurka, kolbasz and red cabbage. Best description is that the sausages were like black pudding and another a bit like Haggis. Lovely.
After dinner we had a roam around some antique shops where the ladies enjoyed themselves haggling over some Erdely (Transylvania) hand woven textiles. Before returning to the camp on the 291 bus.
After dinner we had a roam around some antique shops where the ladies enjoyed themselves haggling over some Erdely (Transylvania) hand woven textiles. Before returning to the camp on the 291 bus.
Excellent food at Vak Varju.
9 December 2018
Blind Crow
In the morning we took the bus and tram to Mamut, a large shopping centre and bought a new fan heater and some Hungarian paprika for friends in Greece. Then onwards to see the family and have a snack of croissants and coffee. At lunchtime Judit’s niece, Panka, arrived and drove us to a new restaurant (certainly new to us) called Vak Varju, which means Blind Crow.
Our table was reserved for 14-00. The restaurant is very very attractive and the food was outstanding. Not surprising it was busy. The restaurant may not be Michelin star but the food was certainly presented that way. Ian ate pig cheek, Panka had the salmon, Gyongyi had Tarja (a variation on pork chop and Judit had duck leg. Panka surprised us by paying for the lot… we love you Panka!
After dinner we went to inspect Panka’s new apartment and very nice it is too. Indoor parking was a bonus. The flat is 45 sq meter and very warm.
Ian was given his birthday present of a bottle of Unicum. Panka received her birthday present of some old family jewellery, 4 gold bracelets. Panka and Gyongyi kindly drove us back to the camp and inspected Bessy. The temperature inside was 4°C… they did not stay long!
Blind Crow
In the morning we took the bus and tram to Mamut, a large shopping centre and bought a new fan heater and some Hungarian paprika for friends in Greece. Then onwards to see the family and have a snack of croissants and coffee. At lunchtime Judit’s niece, Panka, arrived and drove us to a new restaurant (certainly new to us) called Vak Varju, which means Blind Crow.
Our table was reserved for 14-00. The restaurant is very very attractive and the food was outstanding. Not surprising it was busy. The restaurant may not be Michelin star but the food was certainly presented that way. Ian ate pig cheek, Panka had the salmon, Gyongyi had Tarja (a variation on pork chop and Judit had duck leg. Panka surprised us by paying for the lot… we love you Panka!
After dinner we went to inspect Panka’s new apartment and very nice it is too. Indoor parking was a bonus. The flat is 45 sq meter and very warm.
Ian was given his birthday present of a bottle of Unicum. Panka received her birthday present of some old family jewellery, 4 gold bracelets. Panka and Gyongyi kindly drove us back to the camp and inspected Bessy. The temperature inside was 4°C… they did not stay long!
10 December 2018
Windy Serbia
Another early start at 06-00. Paid the Niche lady and then left Budapest via Budakeszi; missing the heavy traffic in Budapest. We did a bit of shopping in ALDI and then took the very busy M0 around Budapest to the M5 motorway in the direction of Szeged.
The weather was lovely and sunny but very windy all the way south and we had a very pleasant and warm drive to the Serbian border at Röszke. We topped up the diesel and found it was £1.16 a liter. But they did want us to pay for the toilet after we had given them about £100.00 for the fuel. Cheeky buggers.
Amazingly we were held up there for 40 minutes as the Hungarian border folk checked thoroughly every vehicle except ours. We were entertained by a stupid arrogant German guy pushing into the single queue. He met his match with another German family who told him exactly where to put himself. After 30 minutes he gave up and went to the back like a good little boy.
Serbia is very flat all the way to Belgrade. We only paused for a coffee until around 16-00 when we pulled in to Mihajlovác Truck Stop. It’s really a service station.
Windy Serbia
Another early start at 06-00. Paid the Niche lady and then left Budapest via Budakeszi; missing the heavy traffic in Budapest. We did a bit of shopping in ALDI and then took the very busy M0 around Budapest to the M5 motorway in the direction of Szeged.
The weather was lovely and sunny but very windy all the way south and we had a very pleasant and warm drive to the Serbian border at Röszke. We topped up the diesel and found it was £1.16 a liter. But they did want us to pay for the toilet after we had given them about £100.00 for the fuel. Cheeky buggers.
Amazingly we were held up there for 40 minutes as the Hungarian border folk checked thoroughly every vehicle except ours. We were entertained by a stupid arrogant German guy pushing into the single queue. He met his match with another German family who told him exactly where to put himself. After 30 minutes he gave up and went to the back like a good little boy.
Serbia is very flat all the way to Belgrade. We only paused for a coffee until around 16-00 when we pulled in to Mihajlovác Truck Stop. It’s really a service station.
Where is the computer?
11 December 2018
Computers, don’t we love them!
Serbia was a little warmer in the morning at 8°C. Overnight the batteries lost charge and the lamps were very dim. It looks like we will have to buy some more batteries at some time.
Ian attempted to start Bessy. The engine battery was certainly working but the engine was not firing. Before flattening the battery fully Ian stopped and had a look around. He spotted a recovery vehicle in the car park and went for a chat. Luckily one man spoke a little English. His diagnosis was that the diesel pump was not working and they would tow us to a garage 25 Km away in Velika Plana. His mate drove the tow truck and the English speaker insisted on driving Bessy.
Once at the garage their computer diagnosed a few potential and real problems with the onboard computer. We never knew we had a computer!
After a trip to the Fiat service the mechanic told us that the computer was dead. In total we had a new computer for €750, a connection between the accelerator pedal and the computer (fly by wire) €300, towing €70, labour €100. In total €1220. We could not pay by card and we did not have enough Euros. In the end Judit paid with our sneaky security cash of £1100. But Bessy did work after all that.
Computers, don’t we love them!
Serbia was a little warmer in the morning at 8°C. Overnight the batteries lost charge and the lamps were very dim. It looks like we will have to buy some more batteries at some time.
Ian attempted to start Bessy. The engine battery was certainly working but the engine was not firing. Before flattening the battery fully Ian stopped and had a look around. He spotted a recovery vehicle in the car park and went for a chat. Luckily one man spoke a little English. His diagnosis was that the diesel pump was not working and they would tow us to a garage 25 Km away in Velika Plana. His mate drove the tow truck and the English speaker insisted on driving Bessy.
Once at the garage their computer diagnosed a few potential and real problems with the onboard computer. We never knew we had a computer!
After a trip to the Fiat service the mechanic told us that the computer was dead. In total we had a new computer for €750, a connection between the accelerator pedal and the computer (fly by wire) €300, towing €70, labour €100. In total €1220. We could not pay by card and we did not have enough Euros. In the end Judit paid with our sneaky security cash of £1100. But Bessy did work after all that.
The office.
The garage was very simple; the office was a table in one corner. We were given coffee while we waited. We were also shown around the site while Vladimir worked outside in the cold. The father of the garage owner kept cows in a shed and some sheep and chickens in another. He was very proud of them so we had to make agreeable noises.
The other wildlife was 2 very vicious looking Caucasian sheepdogs. They gave us some very angry glares and growls as we walked around the site.
The other wildlife was 2 very vicious looking Caucasian sheepdogs. They gave us some very angry glares and growls as we walked around the site.
Bulgarian road to Greece is better every year.
The work was quite quick and we were able to leave at 11-00. Luckily the English speaker guided us back to the motorway and then we headed south towards Nis. The big mountains were covered with snow. The Bulgarian border was absolutely empty and we were through in minutes. At the first Shell station we topped up the tank and bought a Bulgarian vignette for one month, costing around €13.00.
The road towards Sofia was small roads in parts and motorway in parts. We had no holdups at the Sofia Ring and soon we were on the motorway heading south. After the Rila turnoff we were back to small roads again with lots of silly speed restrictions. The Bulgarian mountains had more snow and there was some against the roads; it all looked very wintery.
The road took us through a long gorge and around 17-00 we were at the Kresna TIR truck stop. A chatty Hungarian trucker said he had just called for a truck wash as it was much cheaper than in Hungary. His normal run was between Budapest and Athens. In fact there was a steady stream of trucks calling in the yard for a wash until around 22-00 when the noise of pressure washers died down. The yard was tarmac and well lit. However the toilets were low-type.
Our dinner was basically a large LIDL can of lentil stew, modified with spuds. Very tasty, easy and satisfying.
The road towards Sofia was small roads in parts and motorway in parts. We had no holdups at the Sofia Ring and soon we were on the motorway heading south. After the Rila turnoff we were back to small roads again with lots of silly speed restrictions. The Bulgarian mountains had more snow and there was some against the roads; it all looked very wintery.
The road took us through a long gorge and around 17-00 we were at the Kresna TIR truck stop. A chatty Hungarian trucker said he had just called for a truck wash as it was much cheaper than in Hungary. His normal run was between Budapest and Athens. In fact there was a steady stream of trucks calling in the yard for a wash until around 22-00 when the noise of pressure washers died down. The yard was tarmac and well lit. However the toilets were low-type.
Our dinner was basically a large LIDL can of lentil stew, modified with spuds. Very tasty, easy and satisfying.
12 December 2018
Greece at last
We were not far from the Greek border where there were very few vehicles and we had a very easy entry. The weather was much warmer and we were able to dispense with sweaters and turn the heating off.
It was a long drive to Athens and once there we were held up by the rush hour traffic in the dark. The situation was not made better by two accidents blocking the road. Once out of Athens the roads were clear and we were soon at the large car park in Pachi.
A first time visitor to Greece would think that the country was rich. It was amazing to watch several new-looking cars drive into the car park, perform handbrake turns and then burn rubber as the raced away. Although the car park was “relatively” quiet the village was throbbing with nightlife.
Clearly some people have money to burn.
Greece at last
We were not far from the Greek border where there were very few vehicles and we had a very easy entry. The weather was much warmer and we were able to dispense with sweaters and turn the heating off.
It was a long drive to Athens and once there we were held up by the rush hour traffic in the dark. The situation was not made better by two accidents blocking the road. Once out of Athens the roads were clear and we were soon at the large car park in Pachi.
A first time visitor to Greece would think that the country was rich. It was amazing to watch several new-looking cars drive into the car park, perform handbrake turns and then burn rubber as the raced away. Although the car park was “relatively” quiet the village was throbbing with nightlife.
Clearly some people have money to burn.
Snowing just north of Kalamata.
13 December 2018
Nearly there
Miserable weather, rain and low cloud. Near Tripoli we had quite heavy snow but it cleared after we drove through a tunnel. When we arrived at Kalamata we checked our toll payments. We had to stop at 20 toll booths and the total cost was €110.00… not cheap at all for a tourist. Must have words with the Prime Minister!
First stop was LIDL where we bought enough food to put in the camp freezer in the hope it would last quite a while. Judit also bought a large bag of oranges and tomatoes on the roadside.
The next stop was Pylos where Ian got a welcome cuddle from the cigar kiosk lady. We also shopped at the nice veg shop and then we had a gyros and souvlaki.
At 14-00 we were in Camping Finikes. It was very quiet as everybody seemed to be having a seista. Our usual pitch was taken by an English couple, Ian and Susan in a large 5-wheeler. We also met Erika who now seems to be looking after 9 cats. But we were soon adopted by the ginger cat from last year.
Nearly there
Miserable weather, rain and low cloud. Near Tripoli we had quite heavy snow but it cleared after we drove through a tunnel. When we arrived at Kalamata we checked our toll payments. We had to stop at 20 toll booths and the total cost was €110.00… not cheap at all for a tourist. Must have words with the Prime Minister!
First stop was LIDL where we bought enough food to put in the camp freezer in the hope it would last quite a while. Judit also bought a large bag of oranges and tomatoes on the roadside.
The next stop was Pylos where Ian got a welcome cuddle from the cigar kiosk lady. We also shopped at the nice veg shop and then we had a gyros and souvlaki.
At 14-00 we were in Camping Finikes. It was very quiet as everybody seemed to be having a seista. Our usual pitch was taken by an English couple, Ian and Susan in a large 5-wheeler. We also met Erika who now seems to be looking after 9 cats. But we were soon adopted by the ginger cat from last year.
Christmas Season
We had a quiet Xmas in Finikes. But I guess we would have had a quiet one at home. There was a gathering organised by Roger our resident Frenchman. Naturally we enjoyed a few private drinks and natters here and there.
One day Albert and Gaby took us shopping and another day he took us Olive oil hunting. Both days were excellent outings. Finished off with a frappe at Gardenia in Finikunda.
With the aid of a few shells and a some driftwood Judit made a special Christmas Tree.
Of course we celebrated the day with a tasty Xmas dinner and the present opening ceremony. SKYPE came in handy for calling the family. Unlike previous years Xmas day was wet.
We had a quiet Xmas in Finikes. But I guess we would have had a quiet one at home. There was a gathering organised by Roger our resident Frenchman. Naturally we enjoyed a few private drinks and natters here and there.
One day Albert and Gaby took us shopping and another day he took us Olive oil hunting. Both days were excellent outings. Finished off with a frappe at Gardenia in Finikunda.
With the aid of a few shells and a some driftwood Judit made a special Christmas Tree.
Of course we celebrated the day with a tasty Xmas dinner and the present opening ceremony. SKYPE came in handy for calling the family. Unlike previous years Xmas day was wet.
Village band on Christmas Eve walkabout in Finikunda.
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On the Methoni mole Boxing Day excursion.
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Presents to enjoy.
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The place to eat in Kalamata.
8 February 2019
Kalamata night out
Friday saw us driving to Kalamata. We suffered a quick shower on the way just to remind us of the terrible weather we have had since we arrived. But the rest of the day was warm and sunny. In past years we would have gone to good old LIDL more often but today was our first since arriving in Greece.
We poured 30 Euros worth of diesel in at Akimakis in Methoni and then looked for cheaper on the way. It was 1.37 a liter. On the way we saw it as low as 1.27. That’s a saving of 8 beer tokens or almost a bottle of whisky!
We drove directly to the Marina and booked in for one night. If you stop for 30 days it costs €7.00 a night. For only one night it is €12.4. First job was to sort out the electric hookup to keep the “fridge” going. It was impossible to remove the two-pin adapter from our hookup cable because we have had so much rain water it got into the works. Luckily a nice German guy lent us another adapter for the adapter (I know!) and we were up and running.
Off we went to JUMBO for a browse and spotted a few potential goodies to collect on the way back to the Marina. Then the No.1 bus to the top of the town. First stop was iRepair.We were greeted like long lost family by George, the boss. You will not believe it but we needed an adapter. This time for some ear-pods. They fit the WeeWee (Huawei) mobile but not the Mac. No joy, but George will have a look around and let us know.
Then to find an ATM before any more shopping. There was no joy looking for flip-flops as it’s not the season yet… bugger. Also no joy looking for cheap reading glasses. Try again tomorrow. They day was not a complete waste because we stopped for a meal at Xouliara. Outstanding eatery that caters for the local Greeks. Everything is on display, you try to remember the name of the dish and sit down. Within a few moments a delightful young maiden (they are all young these days) comes for the order. Ian wanted Stefado and chips, Judit wanted stuffed pepper and tomato with chips. Again, within moments the food arrives. It is absolutely delicious home cooking.
Kalamata night out
Friday saw us driving to Kalamata. We suffered a quick shower on the way just to remind us of the terrible weather we have had since we arrived. But the rest of the day was warm and sunny. In past years we would have gone to good old LIDL more often but today was our first since arriving in Greece.
We poured 30 Euros worth of diesel in at Akimakis in Methoni and then looked for cheaper on the way. It was 1.37 a liter. On the way we saw it as low as 1.27. That’s a saving of 8 beer tokens or almost a bottle of whisky!
We drove directly to the Marina and booked in for one night. If you stop for 30 days it costs €7.00 a night. For only one night it is €12.4. First job was to sort out the electric hookup to keep the “fridge” going. It was impossible to remove the two-pin adapter from our hookup cable because we have had so much rain water it got into the works. Luckily a nice German guy lent us another adapter for the adapter (I know!) and we were up and running.
Off we went to JUMBO for a browse and spotted a few potential goodies to collect on the way back to the Marina. Then the No.1 bus to the top of the town. First stop was iRepair.We were greeted like long lost family by George, the boss. You will not believe it but we needed an adapter. This time for some ear-pods. They fit the WeeWee (Huawei) mobile but not the Mac. No joy, but George will have a look around and let us know.
Then to find an ATM before any more shopping. There was no joy looking for flip-flops as it’s not the season yet… bugger. Also no joy looking for cheap reading glasses. Try again tomorrow. They day was not a complete waste because we stopped for a meal at Xouliara. Outstanding eatery that caters for the local Greeks. Everything is on display, you try to remember the name of the dish and sit down. Within a few moments a delightful young maiden (they are all young these days) comes for the order. Ian wanted Stefado and chips, Judit wanted stuffed pepper and tomato with chips. Again, within moments the food arrives. It is absolutely delicious home cooking.
Sunset from Kalamata marina.
We meandered around the old town for a while, stopping at various curtain shops… Judit wanted some authentic ethnic curtains for home. Finally back at Jumbo to collect the goodies we had seen earlier. Jumbo is big, as the name suggests, and stocks lots of things you never thought you would need. Mostly strange things from China. We picked up a pack of foam plastic tiles that fit together like a jigsaw. The idea is to cover the part of the motorhome floor where we generally sit. Over winter that area has been cold to the feet. We also bought a funnel with a very fine filter to clean olive oil or any other oil.
Back to the marina for a sit down, a coffee and catch up with some notes.
In the evening we were presented with a beautiful sunset effect. The sun sets in the west as we all know. This time the rays shone on the mountains of the Taygetos range. But they were shining through a narrow gap and only lit up the lower slope. Beautiful.
Back to the marina for a sit down, a coffee and catch up with some notes.
In the evening we were presented with a beautiful sunset effect. The sun sets in the west as we all know. This time the rays shone on the mountains of the Taygetos range. But they were shining through a narrow gap and only lit up the lower slope. Beautiful.
Saturday 9 February 2019
Shopping in Kalamata
Ian searched for a hookup plug and socket to replace the corroded together ones while Judit searched the market for interesting foods. After some confusing directions from a shopkeeper Ian eventually found Astron Electric; an excellent store that seemed to sell everything an electrician would want.
So loaded with plugs, sockets and a couple of LED bulbs Ian made his way to the agreed meeting place. On the way he found a small pharmacy that sold cheap reading glasses. Not quite in the “One Euro Shop” band but good enough especially after being served by another lovely young thing.
After a one coffee wait Judit joined Ian and she explained the wares she had found in the market. They were heavy wares. Luckily the bus stop was close and we went back to the Jumbo bus stop. Ian raced around the store to buy another pack of foam plastic tiles to complete the floor of the motorhome. They nicely insulate our feet under the table.
After a lunch of spanakopita (cheese and spinach pie) we left the Marina to collect some LPG and then some diesel before a last shop at LIDL. On the way back to Pylos the weather broke and we had a heavy shower but it cleared up fairly quickly.
A fairly successful shopping trip. No need to go for another month!!!
Shopping in Kalamata
Ian searched for a hookup plug and socket to replace the corroded together ones while Judit searched the market for interesting foods. After some confusing directions from a shopkeeper Ian eventually found Astron Electric; an excellent store that seemed to sell everything an electrician would want.
So loaded with plugs, sockets and a couple of LED bulbs Ian made his way to the agreed meeting place. On the way he found a small pharmacy that sold cheap reading glasses. Not quite in the “One Euro Shop” band but good enough especially after being served by another lovely young thing.
After a one coffee wait Judit joined Ian and she explained the wares she had found in the market. They were heavy wares. Luckily the bus stop was close and we went back to the Jumbo bus stop. Ian raced around the store to buy another pack of foam plastic tiles to complete the floor of the motorhome. They nicely insulate our feet under the table.
After a lunch of spanakopita (cheese and spinach pie) we left the Marina to collect some LPG and then some diesel before a last shop at LIDL. On the way back to Pylos the weather broke and we had a heavy shower but it cleared up fairly quickly.
A fairly successful shopping trip. No need to go for another month!!!
Mystery “flu”
What is to blame for the mystery illness that has already struck two of the campers? The first person was laid low for 3 days after an illness that struck immediately after a meal. And several days later he is still under the weather.
The second person, an elderly lady, was struck down with similar symptoms a week later. Sadly she has been taken to Kalamata hospital and at the time of writing we have no further news.
It seems strange because we are reasonably isolated in the camp. We meet one or two people as we are walking on the beach and now an again visitors come to the camp mainly to meet with the elderly lady.
Is it food poisoning? Is it flu? Is it related to the cold and wet weather we have been experiencing? Time will tell.
What is to blame for the mystery illness that has already struck two of the campers? The first person was laid low for 3 days after an illness that struck immediately after a meal. And several days later he is still under the weather.
The second person, an elderly lady, was struck down with similar symptoms a week later. Sadly she has been taken to Kalamata hospital and at the time of writing we have no further news.
It seems strange because we are reasonably isolated in the camp. We meet one or two people as we are walking on the beach and now an again visitors come to the camp mainly to meet with the elderly lady.
Is it food poisoning? Is it flu? Is it related to the cold and wet weather we have been experiencing? Time will tell.
20 February 2019
Knuckle Down
Today we had a minor problem. It was starting to rain and as Ian attempted to put up the awning the knuckle joint at the top of one of the legs broke. It was plastic and has survived for the life of the motorhome, about 20 years. That was the problem; where do you get a replacement part for an out-of-date awning?
After searching the internet Ian found the site of Outdoor Bits. A SKYPE call confirmed that they might be able to locate the knuckle but could I send photos of the item. Yes, we could and after a couple of days Julie sent me a link to exploded diagrams of various awnings. Amazingly FIAMMA have several designs of knuckle and it took quite a while to examine each diagram to identify the actual part and part number. Eventually we were ready to place an order but the camp internet did not want to play. Another SKYPE call to the friendly and very helpful people at Outdoor Bits and we were able to order the items by telephone. They are now waiting for us back in Yorkshire.
Meantime the staff at Finikes were pruning the many trees and we found just the length and form of a forked stick. It is now performing well as a jury rigged awning leg.
Knuckle Down
Today we had a minor problem. It was starting to rain and as Ian attempted to put up the awning the knuckle joint at the top of one of the legs broke. It was plastic and has survived for the life of the motorhome, about 20 years. That was the problem; where do you get a replacement part for an out-of-date awning?
After searching the internet Ian found the site of Outdoor Bits. A SKYPE call confirmed that they might be able to locate the knuckle but could I send photos of the item. Yes, we could and after a couple of days Julie sent me a link to exploded diagrams of various awnings. Amazingly FIAMMA have several designs of knuckle and it took quite a while to examine each diagram to identify the actual part and part number. Eventually we were ready to place an order but the camp internet did not want to play. Another SKYPE call to the friendly and very helpful people at Outdoor Bits and we were able to order the items by telephone. They are now waiting for us back in Yorkshire.
Meantime the staff at Finikes were pruning the many trees and we found just the length and form of a forked stick. It is now performing well as a jury rigged awning leg.
The broken awning knuckle.
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The good one on the other leg.
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The emergency awning leg.
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Something from the sea.
Life in Camp
You probably imagine that staying on a campsite over winter is boring, but it’s not. The usual image is of people just sitting around and making barbecues. However, there’s always something happening and to do.
Almost every day we take a walk along the beach and in the dunes. Most days there’s something new to see. One day Albert and Gaby found a dead flying fish on the beach. Or there is new driftwood and shells to discover after a storm. Sometimes kids would play on the beach and use bamboo that had blown in to make dens. The current opinions on TV is that the sea is full of plastic. Well, we can tell you that it’s true. Apart from the big things like the ships hawser Ian found there are tiny pieces of polystyrene… lots of it.
You probably imagine that staying on a campsite over winter is boring, but it’s not. The usual image is of people just sitting around and making barbecues. However, there’s always something happening and to do.
Almost every day we take a walk along the beach and in the dunes. Most days there’s something new to see. One day Albert and Gaby found a dead flying fish on the beach. Or there is new driftwood and shells to discover after a storm. Sometimes kids would play on the beach and use bamboo that had blown in to make dens. The current opinions on TV is that the sea is full of plastic. Well, we can tell you that it’s true. Apart from the big things like the ships hawser Ian found there are tiny pieces of polystyrene… lots of it.
Buying olive oil.
Some days our walk takes us into Finikunda where we may do a bit of shopping or just chat with the locals at Gardenia. If the weather is good we’ll enjoy a slow frappe.
Another must in Greece is to buy olive oil. First we go to the hardware shop to buy 5 liter cans and then direct to the oil press. If they are not too busy they will fill your cans for about €15. Compare that with UK supermarket prices. In Greece everyone cooks, bakes and whatever with extra virgin oil.
Another must in Greece is to buy olive oil. First we go to the hardware shop to buy 5 liter cans and then direct to the oil press. If they are not too busy they will fill your cans for about €15. Compare that with UK supermarket prices. In Greece everyone cooks, bakes and whatever with extra virgin oil.
Note the rabbit !
Other shopping will take us to LIDL in Messini or Kalamata and that becomes a day out. The most common place for shopping is Pylos. On Saturday morning there’s a street market where we buy fresh veg and fresh eggs. The nice guy always gives us an extra egg whatever we buy. The big thing this year is the new “AB supermarket” in Pylos. Just like all the other places Greek people are kind and helpful. Especially so was the old couple at the kiosk. Ian was always welcomed with a cuddle.
Of course we mostly buy our groceries at the small shops. We have our favourite greengrocer and our favourite butcher for example. There is usually a man selling olive products at the entrance to the harbour car park. He has an amazing memory because he remembers us every year. He speaks no English but that’s not a problem. While in Pylos we always took time to have a coffee in the square and watch the world go by. One day it was a big party for children. Wonderful to watch. Before returning to the camp we would go to the fast food cafe and enjoy a gyros. Yummy and only €2.00.
Of course we mostly buy our groceries at the small shops. We have our favourite greengrocer and our favourite butcher for example. There is usually a man selling olive products at the entrance to the harbour car park. He has an amazing memory because he remembers us every year. He speaks no English but that’s not a problem. While in Pylos we always took time to have a coffee in the square and watch the world go by. One day it was a big party for children. Wonderful to watch. Before returning to the camp we would go to the fast food cafe and enjoy a gyros. Yummy and only €2.00.
Buying Mizithra cheese.
On the road to Pylos is a smallholding at the side of the road. They have sheep and chickens and make cheese. Apart from the obvious feta they also make Mizithra. Mizithra (pronounced mi-zee-thra) is a lesser-known Greek cheese. Made from pasteurised sheep’s or goat’s milk, or a mixture of both and whey. This cheese is creamy and white. At this stage, it is often consumed as a dessert with honey or in salads and pastries. However, the cheese can be salt-dried, producing a saltier cheese that can then be aged, by hanging outside in cloth bags. The longer it ages, the drier and harder it gets. At this stage, it is perfect for grating over hot pasta. It gives parmesan a run for it’s money.
Carnival kiss.
Carnival comes once a year and the events are staggered from village to village. It’s always a good day down in Finikunda. The procession, the dancing in the street, enjoying a beer or two. Funny costumes make the day and everyone is happy. Good fellowship because everyone you know will be there.
Camping Finikes, Finikunda.
Back at the camp we get new guests arriving. One young man was Paul who is a photographer travelling around in his motorhome with his old dog. There were quite a few storms at the time and Paul stood outside for hours trying to catch just the right lightning flash. Patience was rewarded with a wonderful skyscape even if the lightning flash was small. His other hobby was taking photos with a very desirable drone. He attached his mobile phone to the control box and could see exactly what the drone was pointing at before taking a photo. The one of the campsite was particularly good.
Terpsi restaurant at Iklaina.
Another very enjoyable activity is to meet up with our friends Rose and Alf. Apart from visiting local restaurants and enjoying genuine local food we had a great day out birdwatching at the lagoon near Pylos. Well, Alf and Ian did but with little success. All the birds were at the wrong end of the lagoon that day. Meanwhile Rose and Judit went for a meander around the area. Afterwards Rose drove us to a fabulous little restaurant in Iklaina. The name was “Terpsi” which means “delight” and it was. The cook was delighted (sorry) to chat with Judit about some of the dishes. We had a great day out.
"Cat" first time on a knee.
Our other activity on camp was enjoying the ginger cat which had adopted us. We called her “Cat” and she seemed to like that. She would sleep under the motorhome especially when we made a little home for her out of an old carpet and a broken plastic crate. Her daily treat was a “catstick” from LIDL. Goodness knows what’s in them but it drives a cat frantic to get to the sticks. Although she took to us in a big way (and we to her) she would not sit on our lap. But one day while Judit was sitting out in the sun Cat suddenly jumped on to Judit’s lap and sat there very content for at least one hour. We miss her very much but she probably has a better life on the camp than with us travelling around in a motorhome.
Spyros helps with the pipe.
The camp is always in need of a bit of maintenance and sometimes we help out and other times enjoy watching. Pruning the trees is best left to the young Albanian man and his colleagues as they climb up into the trees and lop off the branches with a chainsaw. Health and Safety people would have a dizzy fit. One week the place was very busy with work to replace the fire hydrant system. Quite entertaining watching them unroll the very long blue water pipe.
Compression chamber did not like being trodden on.
Of course there is always a little motorhome maintenance to be carried out. We’ve already mentioned that the awning knuckle decided to break. That’s not all. One day we noticed that the pipe joints near the water pump were weeping. As with most compression fittings the solution is to tighten the joints. That seemed to work but we had to leave the lid off the pump area to allow it to dry out. The next day someone, who shall remain nameless, stepped into the hole and broke the “compression chamber”. As the motorhome system detected an opening the pump “thought” it was a tap and automatically started pumping. We had a 2 meter high fountain inside the motorhome. A frantic flap ensued as we tried to stop the water going everywhere, stop the pump and empty the main 100 liter water tank.
That’s when we not only had no battery electrics, or gas heating, or no gas for the fridge… we now had no water in the taps. From then on we used water from bottles or a 10 liter container we carried.
Life is not dull on a campsite!
That’s when we not only had no battery electrics, or gas heating, or no gas for the fridge… we now had no water in the taps. From then on we used water from bottles or a 10 liter container we carried.
Life is not dull on a campsite!
Band practice in Kardamyli.
Monday 18 March 2019
Started our meanderings
We left our friends at Finikes and soon we were at Messini where we did some last minute shopping at LIDL and Jumbo. When we left Kalamata our route took us over the mountains to Kardamyli and our usual Night Stop next to the village football field. The weather at the coast was pleasantly warm but we could still see a lot of snow on the Taygetos mountains.
On the main road a group workmen were painting yellow and white road markings and 20 children were practising marching and playing their musical instruments. Not sure what for. Luckily the traffic is very light and marching down the middle of the road is no problem.
Started our meanderings
We left our friends at Finikes and soon we were at Messini where we did some last minute shopping at LIDL and Jumbo. When we left Kalamata our route took us over the mountains to Kardamyli and our usual Night Stop next to the village football field. The weather at the coast was pleasantly warm but we could still see a lot of snow on the Taygetos mountains.
On the main road a group workmen were painting yellow and white road markings and 20 children were practising marching and playing their musical instruments. Not sure what for. Luckily the traffic is very light and marching down the middle of the road is no problem.
Sundowner at Aquarella bar in Kardamyli.
The nearby taverna was still closed for the winter so we wandered around and found a really nice, but expensive, bar called Aquarella, from where we watched the sunset. Now we are facing West we can do that.
On the main road was a hardware shop; just like they used to be. Thousands of different goods were hanging or standing all over the shop ranging from 6 different types of paraffin lamps to the latest LED lamps.
Back in Bessy we reflected on our current state.
We had no running water, no electricity, no awning and the gas kettle had lost its lid.
We are going down the pan… quickly.
But we have travelled thousands of miles with the Land Rover and a tent; so no problem.
On the main road was a hardware shop; just like they used to be. Thousands of different goods were hanging or standing all over the shop ranging from 6 different types of paraffin lamps to the latest LED lamps.
Back in Bessy we reflected on our current state.
We had no running water, no electricity, no awning and the gas kettle had lost its lid.
We are going down the pan… quickly.
But we have travelled thousands of miles with the Land Rover and a tent; so no problem.
Tuesday 19 March 2019
Kardamyli
After breakfast we strolled to Aquarella for a coffee and a charge up, but stupidly left the cable behind. We are really going down the pan! However we were able to buy a nice book about West Mani at the Mayor’s office.
Ian bought a simple fishing kit of line around a 15 cm spool of plastic. The line had two hooks and a lead weight connected with a small swivel. If the locals can so can Ian… maybe.
Back to Bessy for a read and a sunbathe.
Kardamyli
After breakfast we strolled to Aquarella for a coffee and a charge up, but stupidly left the cable behind. We are really going down the pan! However we were able to buy a nice book about West Mani at the Mayor’s office.
Ian bought a simple fishing kit of line around a 15 cm spool of plastic. The line had two hooks and a lead weight connected with a small swivel. If the locals can so can Ian… maybe.
Back to Bessy for a read and a sunbathe.
Nikos Kazantzakis.
Wednesday 20 March 2019
Agios Nikolaos
Judit had a walk around old Kardamyli to take some photos with the real camera. This year we seem to be taking a lot more photos with the mobile phone. Our New Huawei has a photo resolution maximum of 20 Megapixels, but we find that for website photos we set the resolution at 12 Megapixels. The phone camera has many options, such as night, portrait, video, Pro, Slow-motion, panorama, time lapse and so on. It’s quite amazing. The downside is that it is not very ergonomically friendly as it is easy to press/touch the wrong button and find yourself closing down or taking 20 photos of the same subject. Hopefully we will get better at handling the thing.
Maybe a selfie stick will help. It will also help us to blend in with tourists!!!
After lunch we drove to Stoupa and looked for the house of Nikos Kazantzakis (he wrote “Zorba the Greek”). No joy, but we did find his bust on the main road.
Agios Nikolaos
Judit had a walk around old Kardamyli to take some photos with the real camera. This year we seem to be taking a lot more photos with the mobile phone. Our New Huawei has a photo resolution maximum of 20 Megapixels, but we find that for website photos we set the resolution at 12 Megapixels. The phone camera has many options, such as night, portrait, video, Pro, Slow-motion, panorama, time lapse and so on. It’s quite amazing. The downside is that it is not very ergonomically friendly as it is easy to press/touch the wrong button and find yourself closing down or taking 20 photos of the same subject. Hopefully we will get better at handling the thing.
Maybe a selfie stick will help. It will also help us to blend in with tourists!!!
After lunch we drove to Stoupa and looked for the house of Nikos Kazantzakis (he wrote “Zorba the Greek”). No joy, but we did find his bust on the main road.
Storm rubble in Ag Nik car park.
Just up the road from the statue is Stoupa Camping so we had a stroll and found ex-Finikes campers, Ian and Sue and their Belgian friends. We were introduced to George, the owner, with a view to winter camping. He would allow it but there would not be a full range of facilities.
On our way to “Ag Nik” we tried the old supermarket and the newer Katerina’s. On balance the old one was cheaper and had a good range of products. At Katerina’s we were too big for the car park.
The car park at Ag Nik is in a mess. Normally we would park next to the sea wall and stay out of the way. This year the place is covered in builders rubble with only a central area that has been cleared. The locals told us that the winter storms had thrown the rubble around. Probably an extra 30 minutes work with a JCB would have cleared the lot rather than just a thin strip down the middle.
In the evening we had a stroll around the village ending up at Greg’s Place. Freda, Niki and Pat were there chatting and knitting. Nice to see them again.
On our way to “Ag Nik” we tried the old supermarket and the newer Katerina’s. On balance the old one was cheaper and had a good range of products. At Katerina’s we were too big for the car park.
The car park at Ag Nik is in a mess. Normally we would park next to the sea wall and stay out of the way. This year the place is covered in builders rubble with only a central area that has been cleared. The locals told us that the winter storms had thrown the rubble around. Probably an extra 30 minutes work with a JCB would have cleared the lot rather than just a thin strip down the middle.
In the evening we had a stroll around the village ending up at Greg’s Place. Freda, Niki and Pat were there chatting and knitting. Nice to see them again.
Thursday 21 March 2019
Knitting
Our morning coffee and charging was again at Gregg’s where we found the British ladies knitting circle having a good chin wag. The men kept out of the way.
After lunch we drove to Trachila, stopping for water at the village tap on the way. The road is a pleasure to drive along but as we approached the village it was clear that a 7.5 meter MH was not a good thing. Judit walked in and took some photos while Ian negotiated an open gate and some rubbish bins into a field allowing him to turn around.
Temperature: a very pleasant 26°C. At last the weather seems to be improving.
Knitting
Our morning coffee and charging was again at Gregg’s where we found the British ladies knitting circle having a good chin wag. The men kept out of the way.
After lunch we drove to Trachila, stopping for water at the village tap on the way. The road is a pleasure to drive along but as we approached the village it was clear that a 7.5 meter MH was not a good thing. Judit walked in and took some photos while Ian negotiated an open gate and some rubbish bins into a field allowing him to turn around.
Temperature: a very pleasant 26°C. At last the weather seems to be improving.
Dog on a hot tiled roof.
Friday 22 March 2019
Dog on a roof
Some MHs must have arrived late last night because we awoke to find 5 of them littered around the car park. Luckily most left around 0900.
After the usual CC&C (Coffee, Cxxx and Charge…. You work it out) we took the cycle path to Stoupa. It took around one hour before we got to the village and found a cafe selling frappe. On the roof next door we saw a Labradoodle enjoying the view. We could not see how he got there but he seemed very content.
Incidentally it took another hour to return!
Dog on a roof
Some MHs must have arrived late last night because we awoke to find 5 of them littered around the car park. Luckily most left around 0900.
After the usual CC&C (Coffee, Cxxx and Charge…. You work it out) we took the cycle path to Stoupa. It took around one hour before we got to the village and found a cafe selling frappe. On the roof next door we saw a Labradoodle enjoying the view. We could not see how he got there but he seemed very content.
Incidentally it took another hour to return!
Church of Agios Ioannis.
Saturday 23 March 2019
Itilo Bay
We made our farewells to Freda and Niki at Greg’s and then a little shopping before heading south through Pigi. We stopped at Koumani Plastra and looked at a nice, big but locked Byzantine church. Judit then walked into the village to look at a second Byzantine church of Agios Paraskevi. She returned to Bessy through narrow cobbled streets where she had seen a newly built amphitheatre.
A little further along was another Byzantine church at the roadside. Judit took lots of pictures and then noticed that the small wooden door was open. Inside were lots of frescoes which meant even more photos.
In the village of Lagkada we saw the main church was covered in blue netting and scaffolding; clearly being renovated. Not to be thwarted in her efforts to take many photos of every Byzantine church on the Mani Judit headed up a steep cobbled road to the church of Agia Sofia.
The view was magnificent with the hillside village being laid out as an amphitheatre. The yard was open but the church was locked. Apparently it had been added to in the 13th Century and had not long ago been renovated.
She was also able to find out that St Nikon, the man who had “christianised” the Mani, died in Lagkada. She also discovered that Agios Nikon was the last stone built village in the Messinia prefecture! So there.
Itilo Bay
We made our farewells to Freda and Niki at Greg’s and then a little shopping before heading south through Pigi. We stopped at Koumani Plastra and looked at a nice, big but locked Byzantine church. Judit then walked into the village to look at a second Byzantine church of Agios Paraskevi. She returned to Bessy through narrow cobbled streets where she had seen a newly built amphitheatre.
A little further along was another Byzantine church at the roadside. Judit took lots of pictures and then noticed that the small wooden door was open. Inside were lots of frescoes which meant even more photos.
In the village of Lagkada we saw the main church was covered in blue netting and scaffolding; clearly being renovated. Not to be thwarted in her efforts to take many photos of every Byzantine church on the Mani Judit headed up a steep cobbled road to the church of Agia Sofia.
The view was magnificent with the hillside village being laid out as an amphitheatre. The yard was open but the church was locked. Apparently it had been added to in the 13th Century and had not long ago been renovated.
She was also able to find out that St Nikon, the man who had “christianised” the Mani, died in Lagkada. She also discovered that Agios Nikon was the last stone built village in the Messinia prefecture! So there.
Traditional baker in Areopoli.
Continuing south we passed Itilo and went to Areopolis and parked in the bus station, where the market was just packing up for the day. It was time for a souvlaki so we went to the place we have favoured before and found it is under new management and they have a wider selection of food. But we still had souvlaki and chips with a salad and it was very good.
The bakery still seems to be in the same hands and we bought a couple of spanakopita (spinach pies) before trying to find Pikoulakis Tower House Museum. The tourist signpost pointed in the general direction but we could not find it. Instead we looked for the shop where we had bought some very attractive pottery in previous years. It seems to have closed down.
As the weather was nice and warm and sunny we returned downhill to Itilo Bay to spend the night after Judit had a quick sunbathe on the pebble beach. The village is small but has at least three tavernas which were all full, probably as Monday is Independence Day. However quite close to us was a nice cafe and bar, “Oasis”, so we had a beer and watched the sunset.
The bakery still seems to be in the same hands and we bought a couple of spanakopita (spinach pies) before trying to find Pikoulakis Tower House Museum. The tourist signpost pointed in the general direction but we could not find it. Instead we looked for the shop where we had bought some very attractive pottery in previous years. It seems to have closed down.
As the weather was nice and warm and sunny we returned downhill to Itilo Bay to spend the night after Judit had a quick sunbathe on the pebble beach. The village is small but has at least three tavernas which were all full, probably as Monday is Independence Day. However quite close to us was a nice cafe and bar, “Oasis”, so we had a beer and watched the sunset.
On display at Tower House museum.
Sunday 24 March 2019
Tower House Museum
Back to Oasis for the usual CC&C and then the search for the museum in Areopolis. We found it after wandering through narrow passages and stone houses. The “keeper” opened up the rooms for us, It was an interesting tower house with a small courtyard in the centre. The exhibition was mainly churchy things such as Byzantine frescoes, stone carvings and wooden crosses. It costs €1.00 each.
During our meander we found that the pottery shop had moved down the road, but was closed.
We drove east across the width of the Mani in the general direction of Gythio but turned off to Kamares where we know of a quiet beach. A German guy was there in his van, just where we had met him before. The sea was very choppy and a strong wind. Judit had a walk along the coast road.
Tower House Museum
Back to Oasis for the usual CC&C and then the search for the museum in Areopolis. We found it after wandering through narrow passages and stone houses. The “keeper” opened up the rooms for us, It was an interesting tower house with a small courtyard in the centre. The exhibition was mainly churchy things such as Byzantine frescoes, stone carvings and wooden crosses. It costs €1.00 each.
During our meander we found that the pottery shop had moved down the road, but was closed.
We drove east across the width of the Mani in the general direction of Gythio but turned off to Kamares where we know of a quiet beach. A German guy was there in his van, just where we had met him before. The sea was very choppy and a strong wind. Judit had a walk along the coast road.
Monday 25 March 2019
Independence Day
The road from Kamares to Gythio means we had to negotiate some narrow roads with overhanging olive trees. Once parked we saw the town preparing for the big day. We had time as the celebrations did not start until 1200 so went for a CC&C in a taverna. Every place we visit people are happy for us to use their electricity and internet and it is always better quality than at Finikes.
When the parade got under way we saw many school groups in various national costumes march past the important people on a dais. The parade also included a some soldiers carrying flags, the Police and the Fire Brigade.
A short time later we watched folk dancing in font of the Town Hall and assembled dignitaries. It was very colourful and very professional.
We left them dancing around 1300 and headed for Bozas Beach where we found the taverna packed with locals and a group of Brits. Our meal was aubergine salad, bread and chips. Ian had grilled veal chops and Judit had grilled octopus. It was all washed down with a small carafe of rose and a bottle of Alpha. As usual we parked next to the beach and read or played with the owners white dog then watched the sunset over the Mani. Very nice day out.
Sadly our Swedish friends Julian and Stina were not there. But we have good memories of all of us helping a little puppy survive and get a new home.
Independence Day
The road from Kamares to Gythio means we had to negotiate some narrow roads with overhanging olive trees. Once parked we saw the town preparing for the big day. We had time as the celebrations did not start until 1200 so went for a CC&C in a taverna. Every place we visit people are happy for us to use their electricity and internet and it is always better quality than at Finikes.
When the parade got under way we saw many school groups in various national costumes march past the important people on a dais. The parade also included a some soldiers carrying flags, the Police and the Fire Brigade.
A short time later we watched folk dancing in font of the Town Hall and assembled dignitaries. It was very colourful and very professional.
We left them dancing around 1300 and headed for Bozas Beach where we found the taverna packed with locals and a group of Brits. Our meal was aubergine salad, bread and chips. Ian had grilled veal chops and Judit had grilled octopus. It was all washed down with a small carafe of rose and a bottle of Alpha. As usual we parked next to the beach and read or played with the owners white dog then watched the sunset over the Mani. Very nice day out.
Sadly our Swedish friends Julian and Stina were not there. But we have good memories of all of us helping a little puppy survive and get a new home.
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Hand wash at Bozas Beach.
Tuesday 26 March 2019
Wash day
In the morning Judit did some hand washing, which we kept wet for now, before driving a short distance to Plytra and our favoured cafe. We managed to charge up the laptop, the camera and Judit’s Kindle as well as downloading photos from the camera and the mobile. The place is still being run by the same old couple, and the same old men seem to be enjoying their coffees.
Last minute shopping next door and back to Bozas Beach. It was now windy and time to hang out the washing.
In the afternoon a small group of Immigrants (?Pakistani) came to the beach for a swim and a shower. The impression was that they now lived and worked in the orange growing area around here. We rarely see the groups of illegals as in previous years. Thanks to Angela Merkel saying they were all welcome… they seem to have gone!
It was a quiet day. The taverna only opens at weekends. So Judit washed some fruit, Ian cooked a corned beef pie with chunky potatoes. It’s a bit like a shepherds pie and very tasty. Judit also cooked polenta and sausages in red wine and tomato sauce. That’s the food sorted for a couple of days.
Wash day
In the morning Judit did some hand washing, which we kept wet for now, before driving a short distance to Plytra and our favoured cafe. We managed to charge up the laptop, the camera and Judit’s Kindle as well as downloading photos from the camera and the mobile. The place is still being run by the same old couple, and the same old men seem to be enjoying their coffees.
Last minute shopping next door and back to Bozas Beach. It was now windy and time to hang out the washing.
In the afternoon a small group of Immigrants (?Pakistani) came to the beach for a swim and a shower. The impression was that they now lived and worked in the orange growing area around here. We rarely see the groups of illegals as in previous years. Thanks to Angela Merkel saying they were all welcome… they seem to have gone!
It was a quiet day. The taverna only opens at weekends. So Judit washed some fruit, Ian cooked a corned beef pie with chunky potatoes. It’s a bit like a shepherds pie and very tasty. Judit also cooked polenta and sausages in red wine and tomato sauce. That’s the food sorted for a couple of days.
The cross overlooking Molai.
Wednesday 27 March 2019
Limani Gerakas
In the past we have been able to empty the cassette into a main drain behind the taverna at Bozas. Not this time. The whole drain had been covered over with all sorts of rubbish. Anyway we filled up with fresh water and drove to Molai to find an ATM and have a coffee, plus a bit of shopping.
The town is on a very steep hillside but fortunately very wide, so a U-turn was not a problem. We found the National Bank of Greece for some much needed cash and then sat outside a cafe; drinking a cappuccino and viewing the distant mountains.
From Molai we drove towards Sykea on a good main road where we found a SHELL station and topped up the LPG and diesel.
We arrived in Limani Gerakas just before noon and parked in our usual place in the small harbour. The village has been tidied up a little as they have removed the shower from behind the “medical centre” and a new one installed next to the sea… but it was clearly switched off for the season. New taps and electric hookups have been installed for the sailors but they need a card to operate them. Sadly the electric socket on the outside of the centre has been isolated as well. Damn.
After a bite to eat we walked down to Ioanni’s cafe but it was closed, so we went to a new one next door called Botzi. The place was clean and tidy with a good toilet. The owner was big and fat and spoke good English. While Ian returned to the MH, Judit went for a walk around the village.
The weather is a bit dull but warm with rain expected later. Luckily we are parked on concrete so no mud and dust to walk into the MH.
Limani Gerakas
In the past we have been able to empty the cassette into a main drain behind the taverna at Bozas. Not this time. The whole drain had been covered over with all sorts of rubbish. Anyway we filled up with fresh water and drove to Molai to find an ATM and have a coffee, plus a bit of shopping.
The town is on a very steep hillside but fortunately very wide, so a U-turn was not a problem. We found the National Bank of Greece for some much needed cash and then sat outside a cafe; drinking a cappuccino and viewing the distant mountains.
From Molai we drove towards Sykea on a good main road where we found a SHELL station and topped up the LPG and diesel.
We arrived in Limani Gerakas just before noon and parked in our usual place in the small harbour. The village has been tidied up a little as they have removed the shower from behind the “medical centre” and a new one installed next to the sea… but it was clearly switched off for the season. New taps and electric hookups have been installed for the sailors but they need a card to operate them. Sadly the electric socket on the outside of the centre has been isolated as well. Damn.
After a bite to eat we walked down to Ioanni’s cafe but it was closed, so we went to a new one next door called Botzi. The place was clean and tidy with a good toilet. The owner was big and fat and spoke good English. While Ian returned to the MH, Judit went for a walk around the village.
The weather is a bit dull but warm with rain expected later. Luckily we are parked on concrete so no mud and dust to walk into the MH.
The morning natter in the taverna.
Thursday 28 March 2019
Wet and windy
Rain started at midnight and continued until 1700 to day. The wind has really picked up and the water in the fjord is really rough.
After breakfast we walked to our favourite place, Zykos, to see Ioanni and Chrissy. She was very happy to see us again and we were greeted like long lost friends. But she had some bad news, her husband Ioanni had died 3 year ago in August. That was just after we had been there.
However, the place was as welcoming as ever and a few of the old boys were inside discussing the world’s events as loud as ever. In fact nobody was outside as it was pouring down.
Another local man came in and spoke excellent English. He and Ian had a good chat about Greece and EU politics. It seems that very few Greeks actually like the current Prime Minister, especially as there had been a referendum about EU membership. According to our man, and many others, the vote showed that people wanted to leave the EU but the PM did not carry out their wishes. The ordinary Greek in the street sees very little of the money coming into the country from the EU as it all goes back to German banks. We knew that taxes had been raised and were told later that places such as restaurants pay 65% tax. So much for EU assistance.
Wet and windy
Rain started at midnight and continued until 1700 to day. The wind has really picked up and the water in the fjord is really rough.
After breakfast we walked to our favourite place, Zykos, to see Ioanni and Chrissy. She was very happy to see us again and we were greeted like long lost friends. But she had some bad news, her husband Ioanni had died 3 year ago in August. That was just after we had been there.
However, the place was as welcoming as ever and a few of the old boys were inside discussing the world’s events as loud as ever. In fact nobody was outside as it was pouring down.
Another local man came in and spoke excellent English. He and Ian had a good chat about Greece and EU politics. It seems that very few Greeks actually like the current Prime Minister, especially as there had been a referendum about EU membership. According to our man, and many others, the vote showed that people wanted to leave the EU but the PM did not carry out their wishes. The ordinary Greek in the street sees very little of the money coming into the country from the EU as it all goes back to German banks. We knew that taxes had been raised and were told later that places such as restaurants pay 65% tax. So much for EU assistance.
Krisi painting outside her taverna.
On more practical matters, Chrissy was going to Monemvasia later in the day for shopping and promised to bring us some Greek pita bread, we had run out. She also filled up a couple of 5 litre water bottles for us. This is such a lovely place it feels like home.
Later Judit cooked some bean soup with gigantes (excellent giant Greek beans) and Pasto. Pasto is pork that has been marinaded and smoked and is delicious. As the temperature is now 14°C Ian decided to make jacket potatoes in the oven to warm the place up a bit. Our gas-fired hot-air central heating does not work because the batteries have very little charge left. Will anything else go wrong this trip? We hope not.
Later Judit cooked some bean soup with gigantes (excellent giant Greek beans) and Pasto. Pasto is pork that has been marinaded and smoked and is delicious. As the temperature is now 14°C Ian decided to make jacket potatoes in the oven to warm the place up a bit. Our gas-fired hot-air central heating does not work because the batteries have very little charge left. Will anything else go wrong this trip? We hope not.
Friday 29 March 2019
Mind your language
If anything the wind has increased and the sea is even more disturbed, but it has stopped raining. Ian went to Zykos to do some interneting while Judit did a major washing up and cleaning session.
For a tiny village it gets quite busy. The old boys were still there and one of them turned out to be French. Then the greengrocer arrived in his van so Judit bought some tomatoes and aubergines. Instead of a strong coffee Judit drank some “mountain tea”. It seems to be quite popular in Greece as a caffeine free drink.
In the afternoon we had a walk along the waterfront and returned via the steep hill and the very narrow back streets. Back at Bessy we were taking photos of the waves when a British couple arrived in a car. It transpired that he was head of languages at Warwick University. We were soon discussing Yorkshire Dialect, Friesian language and Dutch along with Hungarian. A great time was had by all and they were sorry to leave as they had a long journey back to their accommodation. The charming couple were very interested in botany and were on holiday searching for tulips.
We had other visitors a little later when a class of Greek teenagers arrived. They were given a talk by the teacher and then they relaxed, ran around and were generally noisy. But they were not hooligans.
At 1830 the sun set behind the mountains so we ate the Bab Leves (delicious bean soup, in Hungarian).
Mind your language
If anything the wind has increased and the sea is even more disturbed, but it has stopped raining. Ian went to Zykos to do some interneting while Judit did a major washing up and cleaning session.
For a tiny village it gets quite busy. The old boys were still there and one of them turned out to be French. Then the greengrocer arrived in his van so Judit bought some tomatoes and aubergines. Instead of a strong coffee Judit drank some “mountain tea”. It seems to be quite popular in Greece as a caffeine free drink.
In the afternoon we had a walk along the waterfront and returned via the steep hill and the very narrow back streets. Back at Bessy we were taking photos of the waves when a British couple arrived in a car. It transpired that he was head of languages at Warwick University. We were soon discussing Yorkshire Dialect, Friesian language and Dutch along with Hungarian. A great time was had by all and they were sorry to leave as they had a long journey back to their accommodation. The charming couple were very interested in botany and were on holiday searching for tulips.
We had other visitors a little later when a class of Greek teenagers arrived. They were given a talk by the teacher and then they relaxed, ran around and were generally noisy. But they were not hooligans.
At 1830 the sun set behind the mountains so we ate the Bab Leves (delicious bean soup, in Hungarian).
Wild countryside on route to Kyparissi.
Saturday 30 March 2019
Kiparissi
For some reason we awoke quite early and found Zykos to be closed. Also the neighbour was closed but the nice cleaning lady allowed us to use the facilities.
Around 1000 we went to say goodbye to Chrissy and we were introduced to her new man. He seems much younger and very charming. Chrissy told us there is a new road from Kiparissi to Leonidia. That means we do not have to go a long way inland and then around the world to drive through Kosmas. Although Kosmas is a lovely place the entrance and exit roads are very narrow.
Our route was easy. Drive north through Richea then turn right following Kiparissi signs. This new-to-us road is very dramatic with a very rugged coastline, 500 foot cliffs on one side and a mountain on the other. Breathtaking and dramatic. Below the sea was bluer than blue, as Judit described it. Beautiful. Away from the fjord and looking at open sea again we saw the power of the wind as the swell was very big.
We managed to squeeze through the lovely villages of Pistamata, Harakas and Kiparissi itself before we reached to coast. We stopped at the paralia (beach) and walked to a nice small cafe run by a very friendly couple who spoke good English. We had delicious coffee and homemade cake and biscuits. The cafe is really lovely with flowers both inside and out in the garden. We were invited back to eat their delicious homemade spanakopita. All the veg and the wine was home grown.
Kiparissi
For some reason we awoke quite early and found Zykos to be closed. Also the neighbour was closed but the nice cleaning lady allowed us to use the facilities.
Around 1000 we went to say goodbye to Chrissy and we were introduced to her new man. He seems much younger and very charming. Chrissy told us there is a new road from Kiparissi to Leonidia. That means we do not have to go a long way inland and then around the world to drive through Kosmas. Although Kosmas is a lovely place the entrance and exit roads are very narrow.
Our route was easy. Drive north through Richea then turn right following Kiparissi signs. This new-to-us road is very dramatic with a very rugged coastline, 500 foot cliffs on one side and a mountain on the other. Breathtaking and dramatic. Below the sea was bluer than blue, as Judit described it. Beautiful. Away from the fjord and looking at open sea again we saw the power of the wind as the swell was very big.
We managed to squeeze through the lovely villages of Pistamata, Harakas and Kiparissi itself before we reached to coast. We stopped at the paralia (beach) and walked to a nice small cafe run by a very friendly couple who spoke good English. We had delicious coffee and homemade cake and biscuits. The cafe is really lovely with flowers both inside and out in the garden. We were invited back to eat their delicious homemade spanakopita. All the veg and the wine was home grown.
Cliff road to Kyparissi.
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We came from up there to Kyparissi.
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Best spanakopita in Greece.
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Excellent new road from Kyparissi to Leonidio.
Sunday 31 March 2019
The new road
George, the cafe owner, had forgotten to put his clock forward an hour and missed church! We made good use of the facilities and charged the laptop and camera. A few people called in for coffee after church. They were all very smart in their black clothing. George pointed us to a tap for spring water and we topped up our containers, packed up and left Kiparissi.
The “famous” new road starts after Mitropoli and was very very good. George had been a civil engineer on the project and had done a good job. The road was wide, lots of good bends, good signs and white lines. Not quite as dramatic as the road we had taken into Kiparissi. The new road followed the “white road” on our maps up to Kapsala, then it was totally new as far as Fokiano. The village had a small beach and would make a good Night Stop. From Fokiano we were on the old road that weaved its way through olive groves, then became a bit wider up in the mountains to Pigadi. After Amygdalia we joined the bigger “brown” road that wiggled its way down to Poulithra and Vigla and eventually into Plaka where we camped again in Semeli Camp.
It is now a very good campsite that is open all year. The toilets and showers are very clean and tidy. Complete with toilet paper, hairdryer, clothes racks for washing, washing machines and so on. There’s a kitchen area with fridges, freezers and cookers.
Semeli camp is on a very long grey sand beach. Just the other side of Leonidia is a very high cliff; that’s why the camp is popular with climbers.
In the evening Judit cut up the big ball of cheese we had bought near Pylos and grated it onto some “spag bol”. It was just like parmesan, excellent flavour.
Judit took the opportunity to have a shower and hair wash.
The new road
George, the cafe owner, had forgotten to put his clock forward an hour and missed church! We made good use of the facilities and charged the laptop and camera. A few people called in for coffee after church. They were all very smart in their black clothing. George pointed us to a tap for spring water and we topped up our containers, packed up and left Kiparissi.
The “famous” new road starts after Mitropoli and was very very good. George had been a civil engineer on the project and had done a good job. The road was wide, lots of good bends, good signs and white lines. Not quite as dramatic as the road we had taken into Kiparissi. The new road followed the “white road” on our maps up to Kapsala, then it was totally new as far as Fokiano. The village had a small beach and would make a good Night Stop. From Fokiano we were on the old road that weaved its way through olive groves, then became a bit wider up in the mountains to Pigadi. After Amygdalia we joined the bigger “brown” road that wiggled its way down to Poulithra and Vigla and eventually into Plaka where we camped again in Semeli Camp.
It is now a very good campsite that is open all year. The toilets and showers are very clean and tidy. Complete with toilet paper, hairdryer, clothes racks for washing, washing machines and so on. There’s a kitchen area with fridges, freezers and cookers.
Semeli camp is on a very long grey sand beach. Just the other side of Leonidia is a very high cliff; that’s why the camp is popular with climbers.
In the evening Judit cut up the big ball of cheese we had bought near Pylos and grated it onto some “spag bol”. It was just like parmesan, excellent flavour.
Judit took the opportunity to have a shower and hair wash.
Lovely shop with colourful Easter hot air balloons.
Monday 1 April 2019
Leonidia
After breakfast we drove into Leonidia to do some shopping. It was market day next to the dry river so we bought some eggs, fruit and veg. Then we found the supermarket for some basic shopping.
In one of the squares we stopped for a frappe and enjoy the sunshine before dumping the shopping in Bessy. Then we walked back into the village for a look at some of the interesting shops. Judit spotted a woven wool bag similar to one she had bought in Romania but this was more colourful. We enquired about the price. The old lady wanted €70.00 but even after she dropped the price to €60.00 it was still too much. No business.
Back at the camp Judit did some more washing while Ian had a go at repairing the gas function of the fridge but with no joy. But sitting outside in 20°C sunshine was relaxing.
Leonidia
After breakfast we drove into Leonidia to do some shopping. It was market day next to the dry river so we bought some eggs, fruit and veg. Then we found the supermarket for some basic shopping.
In one of the squares we stopped for a frappe and enjoy the sunshine before dumping the shopping in Bessy. Then we walked back into the village for a look at some of the interesting shops. Judit spotted a woven wool bag similar to one she had bought in Romania but this was more colourful. We enquired about the price. The old lady wanted €70.00 but even after she dropped the price to €60.00 it was still too much. No business.
Back at the camp Judit did some more washing while Ian had a go at repairing the gas function of the fridge but with no joy. But sitting outside in 20°C sunshine was relaxing.
Old Night Stop destroyed by winter storms.
Tuesday 2 April 2019
Hercules again
We left the camp after a shower and paid for 2 nights: €32.00. If we stayed for a month in the winter and paid by cash the cost would be €350.00.
We followed the coast road north and had great views from on high over Sambatiki harbour, Paralia Tyrou ( a touristy place in a bay), past Zaritsi and Kryoneri. Near Agios Andreas we saw a quite large prickly pear orchard.
We stopped for a look at a Night Spot at Kveri with a good write up. The town is really a holiday town with almost everything closed. On the beach parking was a single Dutch motorhome. The bridge, ford and Night Stop area had been totally devastated by winter storms. It was impossible to drive to it. Please cross it off your list of possibles.
After a nice frappe in the only open Kafenion we returned to Bessy, had lunch and drove on after lunch. At Myli we wanted to look at the archeological site of Lerna where Hercules killed the lion as his last labour. We parked next to the main road and walked back only to find that the site was closed as it was Tuesday!
Hercules again
We left the camp after a shower and paid for 2 nights: €32.00. If we stayed for a month in the winter and paid by cash the cost would be €350.00.
We followed the coast road north and had great views from on high over Sambatiki harbour, Paralia Tyrou ( a touristy place in a bay), past Zaritsi and Kryoneri. Near Agios Andreas we saw a quite large prickly pear orchard.
We stopped for a look at a Night Spot at Kveri with a good write up. The town is really a holiday town with almost everything closed. On the beach parking was a single Dutch motorhome. The bridge, ford and Night Stop area had been totally devastated by winter storms. It was impossible to drive to it. Please cross it off your list of possibles.
After a nice frappe in the only open Kafenion we returned to Bessy, had lunch and drove on after lunch. At Myli we wanted to look at the archeological site of Lerna where Hercules killed the lion as his last labour. We parked next to the main road and walked back only to find that the site was closed as it was Tuesday!
Konstantin, a charming man.
Back at the MH we met a really nice old boy called Konstantin. He started to outline the history of Hercules and the Hydra. He showed us the swamp that used to be a “bottomless” lake where the Hydra lived. Hercules cut off one of the 9 heads and was surprised that 2 grew back. Eventually he cauterised the neck of the Hydra to prevent regrowth. Cauterise is a Greek word.
Konstantin went on to tell us more stories about Greek Gods and mythology relevant to the area and the springs. It was very interesting and well presented. With a few photos and a video team he could make a very good documentary. He also spoke 9 languages!
From Myli we drove all the way to Nafplio harbour, where we have stopped several times before. In the evening we wandered around the old town. Ian was amazed to find a very well stocked high quality cigar shop. The first we have ever seen outside London.
Konstantin went on to tell us more stories about Greek Gods and mythology relevant to the area and the springs. It was very interesting and well presented. With a few photos and a video team he could make a very good documentary. He also spoke 9 languages!
From Myli we drove all the way to Nafplio harbour, where we have stopped several times before. In the evening we wandered around the old town. Ian was amazed to find a very well stocked high quality cigar shop. The first we have ever seen outside London.
Kilada prawns ARE big.
Wednesday 3 April 2019
Prawns
In the morning we did a little shopping and drove to Drepano, Paralia Irion and through the market gardens full of lettuce and artichoke. In this flat area we had to drive through a shallow ford and then we started to climb on winding roads to Neochori. At a major road we headed south and finally stopped at the fishing village of Kilada. The biggest and best prawns in Greece are said to come from this area.
We had a frappe in Happy Flo cafe and in the evening we went to the “red coloured” fish restaurant to try the prawns. It’s true. The prawns were big and juice and sweet. To accompany the prawns we had courgette fritters, Horta (spring greens of all sorts such as dandelion leaves), chips, wine and beer for €24.00.
The charming old boy of the restaurant made a fire and sat in front of it. It was cool in the evening after all. The restaurant had many old photos and various nautical nick-nacks including some lovely patterned glass lampshades. Another lampshade was made from an upturned zinc bucket. It sounds strange but looked really effective.
Prawns
In the morning we did a little shopping and drove to Drepano, Paralia Irion and through the market gardens full of lettuce and artichoke. In this flat area we had to drive through a shallow ford and then we started to climb on winding roads to Neochori. At a major road we headed south and finally stopped at the fishing village of Kilada. The biggest and best prawns in Greece are said to come from this area.
We had a frappe in Happy Flo cafe and in the evening we went to the “red coloured” fish restaurant to try the prawns. It’s true. The prawns were big and juice and sweet. To accompany the prawns we had courgette fritters, Horta (spring greens of all sorts such as dandelion leaves), chips, wine and beer for €24.00.
The charming old boy of the restaurant made a fire and sat in front of it. It was cool in the evening after all. The restaurant had many old photos and various nautical nick-nacks including some lovely patterned glass lampshades. Another lampshade was made from an upturned zinc bucket. It sounds strange but looked really effective.
Franchthi cave is worth a visit.
Thursday 4 April 2019
Franchthi Cave
Happy Flo cafe was open early so we made good use of it’s facilities and chatted to the young lady. She explained how to get to Frachthi Cave which we had seen illuminated across the bay. The solution is to rent a boat and go across the bay or drive around, following signs to a secluded beach. Then follow the red arrows.
We went back to the main road, found the signs and drove on narrow roads and a short dirt road to the beach. It would make an excellent peaceful Night Stop. The path to the cave started as a bit of a scramble over large rocks but the red arrows helped and soon we were on a normal dirt footpath. We had excellent views over the bay, islands and Kilada. The cave was open and nobody guarding it. The cave is big and has good footpaths laid out inside with information boards here and there in Greek and English. Lots of photos of the excavations. The archeologists say that the cave was lived in from 40,000 BC up to 8,000 BC. This is the oldest burial site in Greece. It was very interesting and well worth a visit. All the finds, skeletons and different objects are in the Archeological Museum of Nafplio.
Frachthi Cave: N 37.422444°, E 23.131228°
Following our educational tour we drove on to Portocheli, which is a holiday resort not too far away. We parked near the moorings and noticed that there seems to be a lot of money here. The yachts were big, the motorboats were big and the shops sold expensive things you don’t really need. Most were not open but getting ready for the season. In the evening Ian practised his Greek by playing football with some local youngsters. They were not impressed at his skills!
Franchthi Cave
Happy Flo cafe was open early so we made good use of it’s facilities and chatted to the young lady. She explained how to get to Frachthi Cave which we had seen illuminated across the bay. The solution is to rent a boat and go across the bay or drive around, following signs to a secluded beach. Then follow the red arrows.
We went back to the main road, found the signs and drove on narrow roads and a short dirt road to the beach. It would make an excellent peaceful Night Stop. The path to the cave started as a bit of a scramble over large rocks but the red arrows helped and soon we were on a normal dirt footpath. We had excellent views over the bay, islands and Kilada. The cave was open and nobody guarding it. The cave is big and has good footpaths laid out inside with information boards here and there in Greek and English. Lots of photos of the excavations. The archeologists say that the cave was lived in from 40,000 BC up to 8,000 BC. This is the oldest burial site in Greece. It was very interesting and well worth a visit. All the finds, skeletons and different objects are in the Archeological Museum of Nafplio.
Frachthi Cave: N 37.422444°, E 23.131228°
Following our educational tour we drove on to Portocheli, which is a holiday resort not too far away. We parked near the moorings and noticed that there seems to be a lot of money here. The yachts were big, the motorboats were big and the shops sold expensive things you don’t really need. Most were not open but getting ready for the season. In the evening Ian practised his Greek by playing football with some local youngsters. They were not impressed at his skills!
Impressive landing at Ermioni.
Friday 5 April 2019
Palea Epidavros
A few kilometers away is Ermioni. To our eyes it is real Greece as opposed to the touristy Portocheli. Large parking area for Bessy so that we could walk around. There is everything you need here; tavernas, coffee shops, bakers, butchers and so on. Plus the hydrofoil “flies” in to the harbour on its run to the islands; very impressive Soviet technology. We liked Ermioni.
Carrying on the sometimes-narrow winding coast road we passed a couple of lagoons, but no bird life. At Galatas we stopped at the first large car park opposite the island of Poros and had lunch of pies and spanakopita. The car park has been tidied up a lot since our last visit but Ian still found a slack handful of large rusty nails on the ground… beware.
The weather has been cloudy today with rain predicted. After Galatas we found a lot of road repairs with traffic light controlling the infrequent traffic. As we became higher we had good views over the coastline and then to Palea Epidavros.
“Park4night” recommends a Night Stop just north of the town so we followed the SatNav’s instructions. This is the first time the SatNav has got us into trouble. The streets are VERY narrow with tight corners. Eventually we managed to squeeze back to the main square. A good 45 minutes of sweating and mumbling under breath only to hear that the Night Stop is not as described. There is no taverna and there are parking restrictions.
We walked back to one of the junctions and relaxed with a beer and a wine. The 4 Brits sitting outside had earlier pointed us in a safe direction during our moment of fun in the narrow streets. They also gave us an important tip; do not drink tap water in this area.
Palea Epidavros
A few kilometers away is Ermioni. To our eyes it is real Greece as opposed to the touristy Portocheli. Large parking area for Bessy so that we could walk around. There is everything you need here; tavernas, coffee shops, bakers, butchers and so on. Plus the hydrofoil “flies” in to the harbour on its run to the islands; very impressive Soviet technology. We liked Ermioni.
Carrying on the sometimes-narrow winding coast road we passed a couple of lagoons, but no bird life. At Galatas we stopped at the first large car park opposite the island of Poros and had lunch of pies and spanakopita. The car park has been tidied up a lot since our last visit but Ian still found a slack handful of large rusty nails on the ground… beware.
The weather has been cloudy today with rain predicted. After Galatas we found a lot of road repairs with traffic light controlling the infrequent traffic. As we became higher we had good views over the coastline and then to Palea Epidavros.
“Park4night” recommends a Night Stop just north of the town so we followed the SatNav’s instructions. This is the first time the SatNav has got us into trouble. The streets are VERY narrow with tight corners. Eventually we managed to squeeze back to the main square. A good 45 minutes of sweating and mumbling under breath only to hear that the Night Stop is not as described. There is no taverna and there are parking restrictions.
We walked back to one of the junctions and relaxed with a beer and a wine. The 4 Brits sitting outside had earlier pointed us in a safe direction during our moment of fun in the narrow streets. They also gave us an important tip; do not drink tap water in this area.
Much needed drink after taking wrong directions.
Much refreshed we drove to the southern end of town, past the football field and left towards the site of an ancient theatre (Not the Big One). We parked at the end of the road and watched a group of gypsies/foreign people and their domestic arrangements. They had 2 vans and 2 cars and used these as if they were rooms in one house. The kids ran about and the women cooked. The men seemed to drive off at regular intervals.
In the evening a Dutch and a German MH arrived.
At night 2, maybe 3, of the gypsie men slept in one car and the rest in one of the vans; maybe 10 people in all. The toilet facilities were zero so the group used the beach. Lots of squatting by both sexes. But we had better views such as the town and had a peaceful night even though the rain poured down all night.
In the evening a Dutch and a German MH arrived.
At night 2, maybe 3, of the gypsie men slept in one car and the rest in one of the vans; maybe 10 people in all. The toilet facilities were zero so the group used the beach. Lots of squatting by both sexes. But we had better views such as the town and had a peaceful night even though the rain poured down all night.
Theatre of Demos, Paleia Epidavros.
Saturday 6 April 2019
Wet and windy
It was still pouring down in the morning. But after breakfast we drove into town and dashed across the road to the first open cafe where we were served by a lovely young lass. She explained to Judit the way to the nearest hairdresser. So while Judit had her hair done (much easier than in Bessy) Ian stayed behind and worked on the laptop.
All the other vehicles had left the Night Stop when we returned… in the rain. Judit made a red pepper and sausage omelette for lunch. When the rain had eased a little Ian started preparing a modified corned beef cottage pie for the evening meal.
We decided to stay another night because of the weather, but about 1600 the rain eventually stopped altogether. Judit went for a walk to the theatre (the small one) where there were signs of new excavations. The path goes through orange and mandarin orchards. Some where in blossom and the smell is fantastic.
After a delicious cottage pie we walked into town again and browsed the shops. Back at base was an Austrian MH and a large German 4x4 truck with a young couple and 2 young children.
Wet and windy
It was still pouring down in the morning. But after breakfast we drove into town and dashed across the road to the first open cafe where we were served by a lovely young lass. She explained to Judit the way to the nearest hairdresser. So while Judit had her hair done (much easier than in Bessy) Ian stayed behind and worked on the laptop.
All the other vehicles had left the Night Stop when we returned… in the rain. Judit made a red pepper and sausage omelette for lunch. When the rain had eased a little Ian started preparing a modified corned beef cottage pie for the evening meal.
We decided to stay another night because of the weather, but about 1600 the rain eventually stopped altogether. Judit went for a walk to the theatre (the small one) where there were signs of new excavations. The path goes through orange and mandarin orchards. Some where in blossom and the smell is fantastic.
After a delicious cottage pie we walked into town again and browsed the shops. Back at base was an Austrian MH and a large German 4x4 truck with a young couple and 2 young children.
Sunday 7 April 2019
The Big One
In the morning we went back to the same cafe which soon filled up with a very large group commemorating a family funeral so after a quick charge of laptop we left them to it.
We’ve been before, but Ancient Epidavros is worth a second look. It was busy as usual with many tourist coaches in the large parking area. We bought our over-65 tickets for €6.00 each and then found that nobody was checking the tickets; we could have walked straight in.
Our first stop was at the amphitheatre which is very impressive. A young woman dressed in ancient Greek clothing started spouting on the stage area and after 5 minutes she collapsed in an emotional heap and had to be helped to a seat… what’s going on?
The highlight of the museum, for Ian, was a cat guarding the entrance totally ignoring the hundreds of people milling around. It looked very proud of its home. We met the Austrians and the Germans from the Night Stop.
On our way to Korfos Judit bought a large sack of oranges at the roadside. We’ve been to Korfos before but had parked at the roadside next to a taverna. This time we drove all the way through the village and found an open area set aside for MHs. There was a taverna just 20 yards away and we enjoyed watching a fishing boat mooring at the taverna and selling fish to the diners.
The Big One
In the morning we went back to the same cafe which soon filled up with a very large group commemorating a family funeral so after a quick charge of laptop we left them to it.
We’ve been before, but Ancient Epidavros is worth a second look. It was busy as usual with many tourist coaches in the large parking area. We bought our over-65 tickets for €6.00 each and then found that nobody was checking the tickets; we could have walked straight in.
Our first stop was at the amphitheatre which is very impressive. A young woman dressed in ancient Greek clothing started spouting on the stage area and after 5 minutes she collapsed in an emotional heap and had to be helped to a seat… what’s going on?
The highlight of the museum, for Ian, was a cat guarding the entrance totally ignoring the hundreds of people milling around. It looked very proud of its home. We met the Austrians and the Germans from the Night Stop.
On our way to Korfos Judit bought a large sack of oranges at the roadside. We’ve been to Korfos before but had parked at the roadside next to a taverna. This time we drove all the way through the village and found an open area set aside for MHs. There was a taverna just 20 yards away and we enjoyed watching a fishing boat mooring at the taverna and selling fish to the diners.
Judit in Epidavros amphitheatre.
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Ian in Epidavros museum.
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Judit and museum cat.
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Corinth Canal from main road bridge.
Monday 8 April 2019
Corinth Canal
Just as we were ready to leave the rain started again; very heavy this time. We found an open cafe and stayed there until 1130 when the rain eased a little.
AT 1300 we arrived at the Corinth Canal and took photos of the sinking bridge before taking more photos from one of the bridges. The canal is really very impressive. After the photos we walked to Goodies which is a Greek version of McDonalds but much better. They have a large range of food not just burgers. At one of the nearby souvenir ships Judit bought Greek scarf.
Sinking Bridge: N 37.918144°, E 23.007046°
Around 1500 we arrived at the NS at Pachi and the rain stopped at last. This gave us the opportunity to walk around the village and take a few photos. Our next stop was at “Level Cafe” next to our car park. Ian enjoyed a beer and Judit went for the mountain tea. Back to Bessy to give her a good cleaning. The wind started to increase and we wobbled quite a bit.
Corinth Canal
Just as we were ready to leave the rain started again; very heavy this time. We found an open cafe and stayed there until 1130 when the rain eased a little.
AT 1300 we arrived at the Corinth Canal and took photos of the sinking bridge before taking more photos from one of the bridges. The canal is really very impressive. After the photos we walked to Goodies which is a Greek version of McDonalds but much better. They have a large range of food not just burgers. At one of the nearby souvenir ships Judit bought Greek scarf.
Sinking Bridge: N 37.918144°, E 23.007046°
Around 1500 we arrived at the NS at Pachi and the rain stopped at last. This gave us the opportunity to walk around the village and take a few photos. Our next stop was at “Level Cafe” next to our car park. Ian enjoyed a beer and Judit went for the mountain tea. Back to Bessy to give her a good cleaning. The wind started to increase and we wobbled quite a bit.
New jet needed for fridge gas part.
Tuesday 9 April 2019
Repairs at last
There’s never an ATM when you need one. We were driving on the motorway towards Athens. The various service stations were supposed to have ATMs. They didn’t. For some reason they had recently been removed.
Our good MH friends, Sue and Craig from Athens who we had met several times at Finikes, had arranged a repair service for us. Sure enough when we arrived the young man was waiting for us.
He immediately set to work and dismantled the gas flame system of the fridge. He found that the jet was so blocked it needed a new one, which he had. The fridge was sorted.
Next was the leisure battery problem. At €280 each we were a little shocked. But our wizard mechanic reckoned that with the solar panel and driving we would more than cope with one battery. Generally we don’t leave all the lights on in the MH so we agreed to one battery. We can always buy another one if necessary. Battery sorted.
Next on the list was the pressure chamber of the water pump system. After fitting the pipes were still leaking a little. Repairs continued for a few hours more.
Repairs at last
There’s never an ATM when you need one. We were driving on the motorway towards Athens. The various service stations were supposed to have ATMs. They didn’t. For some reason they had recently been removed.
Our good MH friends, Sue and Craig from Athens who we had met several times at Finikes, had arranged a repair service for us. Sure enough when we arrived the young man was waiting for us.
He immediately set to work and dismantled the gas flame system of the fridge. He found that the jet was so blocked it needed a new one, which he had. The fridge was sorted.
Next was the leisure battery problem. At €280 each we were a little shocked. But our wizard mechanic reckoned that with the solar panel and driving we would more than cope with one battery. Generally we don’t leave all the lights on in the MH so we agreed to one battery. We can always buy another one if necessary. Battery sorted.
Next on the list was the pressure chamber of the water pump system. After fitting the pipes were still leaking a little. Repairs continued for a few hours more.
Athens repairs next to this sign. Easy to find.
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MH Service cat at home on Bessy's steps.
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Meantime Sue and Craig arrived and took Judit off to an ATM. That was not successful because Judit often writes her PIN number on her hand and this time it had rubbed off. She dare not make a guess or she could lose the card. We went back to the service and decided to leave Bessy with the wizard while we went to Sue and Craig’s beautiful apartment. Finn, the black Labrador, was delighted to see us and have somebody else to play with. We were also delighted to play with him.
Motorhome Repair Athens: N 44.332180°, E 21.010169°
Craig had planned a BBQ on the balcony but the very high winds put paid to that and Sue had to cook inside. She did a great job and we ate delicious salads, grilled aubergines and courgettes, grilled pork and lamb chops. We supplied a bottle of Bull’s Blood from Hungary.
Later Sue, Ian and Finn went for a walk in the woods while Craig took Judit to another ATM. Success this time and she came away with €300.
In the evening we sat chatting and drinking. Sue made a delicious bacon quiche for supper. We discussed the many articles they have collected from their travels. And well before bed we saw a lovely sunset over Athens. We slept soundly on the futon that night.
Motorhome Repair Athens: N 44.332180°, E 21.010169°
Craig had planned a BBQ on the balcony but the very high winds put paid to that and Sue had to cook inside. She did a great job and we ate delicious salads, grilled aubergines and courgettes, grilled pork and lamb chops. We supplied a bottle of Bull’s Blood from Hungary.
Later Sue, Ian and Finn went for a walk in the woods while Craig took Judit to another ATM. Success this time and she came away with €300.
In the evening we sat chatting and drinking. Sue made a delicious bacon quiche for supper. We discussed the many articles they have collected from their travels. And well before bed we saw a lovely sunset over Athens. We slept soundly on the futon that night.
Soon to be ready, new Athens stopover.
Wednesday 10 April 2019
All sorted
We said our goodbyes and thanks to Sue before Craig took us to the service. Our favourite wizard had worked well into the evening repairing the water system. He had found a faulty valve and had replaced it. The valve had probably been damaged by hard water over the years.
The bill for all that work was €570. And on top of that we left a substantial tip for the conscientious hard work. Thank you.
We left the service and Craig guided us to meet George, the boss, at the new headquarters. He is building, is that the right word, a stopover just for motorhomes. It will not be a campsite. The project is well under way and it should be ready for the summer. In addition he is a really nice guy. Check the Night Stops page for details.
Now we can start again. We headed for Sounio but first we stopped at a LIDL near Markopoulo and meat pies and spanakopita that Ian bought at a nearby bakers.
The weather was much warmer and the wind had dropped. We ate the pies, which were a bit lacking in filling, near to Poseidon’s Temple. Next, the temple itself. It is a lovely place and just around 1300 it was relatively quiet while the tourists had lunch. We took lots of photos of the ruins and also the beautiful partridge that inhabit the area.
As we were leaving the site the tourists started flooding in. In fact when we got back to Bessy it was a squeeze to get past all the coaches. Nearby are two tavernas and we went there with a plan to stay in the car park. We had a couple of frappes and watched the teenagers frolicking on the beach and swimming in the sea. Ian asked if we could stay in the car park for the night and received the usual Greek answer, “Yes, of course.”
The mainly seafood looked good but we had perishable food in the MH so we ate in. Towards evening a Belgian registered giant of a motorhome arrived. It was a “Concorde Liner”. It looked more like a cruise liner. Bessy was dwarfed next to it. They also had a car. Not sure how that worked. There was at least one family and four girls.
All sorted
We said our goodbyes and thanks to Sue before Craig took us to the service. Our favourite wizard had worked well into the evening repairing the water system. He had found a faulty valve and had replaced it. The valve had probably been damaged by hard water over the years.
The bill for all that work was €570. And on top of that we left a substantial tip for the conscientious hard work. Thank you.
We left the service and Craig guided us to meet George, the boss, at the new headquarters. He is building, is that the right word, a stopover just for motorhomes. It will not be a campsite. The project is well under way and it should be ready for the summer. In addition he is a really nice guy. Check the Night Stops page for details.
Now we can start again. We headed for Sounio but first we stopped at a LIDL near Markopoulo and meat pies and spanakopita that Ian bought at a nearby bakers.
The weather was much warmer and the wind had dropped. We ate the pies, which were a bit lacking in filling, near to Poseidon’s Temple. Next, the temple itself. It is a lovely place and just around 1300 it was relatively quiet while the tourists had lunch. We took lots of photos of the ruins and also the beautiful partridge that inhabit the area.
As we were leaving the site the tourists started flooding in. In fact when we got back to Bessy it was a squeeze to get past all the coaches. Nearby are two tavernas and we went there with a plan to stay in the car park. We had a couple of frappes and watched the teenagers frolicking on the beach and swimming in the sea. Ian asked if we could stay in the car park for the night and received the usual Greek answer, “Yes, of course.”
The mainly seafood looked good but we had perishable food in the MH so we ate in. Towards evening a Belgian registered giant of a motorhome arrived. It was a “Concorde Liner”. It looked more like a cruise liner. Bessy was dwarfed next to it. They also had a car. Not sure how that worked. There was at least one family and four girls.
Ian at Temple of Poseidon.
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We thought Bessy was big!
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Judit at temple of Artemis.
Thursday 11 April 2019
Goddess of Women !
After breakfast we headed back the way we came and stopped at Lavrio for a coffee, etc. It was a nice little town. The centre was a “longabout” and we meandered both sides looking for training shoes and a bank. Instead we bought spanakopita for lunch.
A very jolly lady greeted us at the cafe. In Greece most places are jolly so you can imagine how REALLY jolly this lady was because we have mentioned it.
A little further north we came to Thoriko, an ancient site with amphitheatre and a prehistoric settlement. Nobody at the entrance so we had a freebie. The area had been famous for minerals, mainly silver. In fact in the area we saw many signs warning people not to walk in a certain parts because of old mine shafts.
On the road to Markopoulo we bought diesel, LPG and some water. Soon we were on smaller roads and we eventually found the ancient site of Vravron near Hamolia. It’s a site worth visiting even if it is out of the way. Several coach loads of visitors vouch for that.
By the way, the weather was hot and it was a delight to enter the very well stocked museum; artefacts from the surrounding area and the sanctuary of Artemis. From there the path leads down to a swampy area with lots of birds and other wildlife and onto the temple of Artemis, goddess of women, marriage and children. There is also a stone bridge with wheel ruts from ancient carts.
From the museum we drove a little way south to Porto Rafti and found a quiet beach next to a large tarmac car park. One end was a tennis club and the other a group of people playing boule.
It was lucky we moved from the seafront because in the evening the local morons arrived with their noisy cars, and the ones with less money and mopeds with even noisier exhausts. We are amazed that the locals put up with this behaviour. Then a car alarm went off for an hour or so. We cannot recommend this place for a Night Stop.
Goddess of Women !
After breakfast we headed back the way we came and stopped at Lavrio for a coffee, etc. It was a nice little town. The centre was a “longabout” and we meandered both sides looking for training shoes and a bank. Instead we bought spanakopita for lunch.
A very jolly lady greeted us at the cafe. In Greece most places are jolly so you can imagine how REALLY jolly this lady was because we have mentioned it.
A little further north we came to Thoriko, an ancient site with amphitheatre and a prehistoric settlement. Nobody at the entrance so we had a freebie. The area had been famous for minerals, mainly silver. In fact in the area we saw many signs warning people not to walk in a certain parts because of old mine shafts.
On the road to Markopoulo we bought diesel, LPG and some water. Soon we were on smaller roads and we eventually found the ancient site of Vravron near Hamolia. It’s a site worth visiting even if it is out of the way. Several coach loads of visitors vouch for that.
By the way, the weather was hot and it was a delight to enter the very well stocked museum; artefacts from the surrounding area and the sanctuary of Artemis. From there the path leads down to a swampy area with lots of birds and other wildlife and onto the temple of Artemis, goddess of women, marriage and children. There is also a stone bridge with wheel ruts from ancient carts.
From the museum we drove a little way south to Porto Rafti and found a quiet beach next to a large tarmac car park. One end was a tennis club and the other a group of people playing boule.
It was lucky we moved from the seafront because in the evening the local morons arrived with their noisy cars, and the ones with less money and mopeds with even noisier exhausts. We are amazed that the locals put up with this behaviour. Then a car alarm went off for an hour or so. We cannot recommend this place for a Night Stop.
Ramnous Camp, puppies, Frenchman and Judit.
Friday 12 April 2019
Ghost town, ghost camp
We found a cafe that was open in the town. Probably the only one because the place was like a ghost town. Most of the houses and holiday places were closed. The main road around the town was very wide and one way; it probably explains the idiotic driving last night.
Our route was to take the road past the museum we had visited then on the main road following the coast. It was very built up and not very interesting… Loutsa, Rafina and Nea Makeri. We shopped at a Lidl for fresh meat and veg as we were planning to stop at Ramnous Camping near Marathonas.
When we got there the gate was open but nobody around so we found a hookup, but it had no power. We walked around and it looked like the place was really closed. Most of the place was set up for permanent caravans. We found an area with water, that’s all. Finally we met a Frenchman with a French motorhome. He was cooking in the communal kitchen. He said the place was closed; no electric, no showers or toilets. The only electricity was in the kitchen.
We decided to stop anyway so had lunch and went for a walk. There are a few puppies and cats in the camp. Later an oriental looking lady appeared and agreed that we could stay for one night. Just as well because it started to rain heavily.
Judit was cooking rolled up stuffed pork, roast potatoes, carrots and courgettes. She was also planning tomorrows route which was not easy as there are no open campsites in the area. We need one to do some washing.
Ghost town, ghost camp
We found a cafe that was open in the town. Probably the only one because the place was like a ghost town. Most of the houses and holiday places were closed. The main road around the town was very wide and one way; it probably explains the idiotic driving last night.
Our route was to take the road past the museum we had visited then on the main road following the coast. It was very built up and not very interesting… Loutsa, Rafina and Nea Makeri. We shopped at a Lidl for fresh meat and veg as we were planning to stop at Ramnous Camping near Marathonas.
When we got there the gate was open but nobody around so we found a hookup, but it had no power. We walked around and it looked like the place was really closed. Most of the place was set up for permanent caravans. We found an area with water, that’s all. Finally we met a Frenchman with a French motorhome. He was cooking in the communal kitchen. He said the place was closed; no electric, no showers or toilets. The only electricity was in the kitchen.
We decided to stop anyway so had lunch and went for a walk. There are a few puppies and cats in the camp. Later an oriental looking lady appeared and agreed that we could stay for one night. Just as well because it started to rain heavily.
Judit was cooking rolled up stuffed pork, roast potatoes, carrots and courgettes. She was also planning tomorrows route which was not easy as there are no open campsites in the area. We need one to do some washing.
Ancient Egyptian willy. Why?
Saturday 13 April 2019
Schinias
Still raining as we left Ramnous “non-camp” and drove to Marathonas town looking for a cafe.The main road around the town and the high street were one way, narrow and lots of parked cars. We could not park.
Instead we drove to the Archeological Museum. It’s a bit out in the sticks among market gardens. We have been here before but had forgotten the details. The museum is not big but has lots of pots and statues, even a section with Egyptian statues.
Judit wanted to go to the pine forest at Schinias Beach where we stayed before with Brian and Carol. There looked to be efforts to stop people driving into the forest so we settled for walking around a little and taking photos. The bay is very wide and apparently is protected for turtles.
Schinias
Still raining as we left Ramnous “non-camp” and drove to Marathonas town looking for a cafe.The main road around the town and the high street were one way, narrow and lots of parked cars. We could not park.
Instead we drove to the Archeological Museum. It’s a bit out in the sticks among market gardens. We have been here before but had forgotten the details. The museum is not big but has lots of pots and statues, even a section with Egyptian statues.
Judit wanted to go to the pine forest at Schinias Beach where we stayed before with Brian and Carol. There looked to be efforts to stop people driving into the forest so we settled for walking around a little and taking photos. The bay is very wide and apparently is protected for turtles.
Wet day on route to Ramnus ruins.
Driving back on the same road, that has about 10 large speed bumps, we stopped at Sxinias Taverna. The owner was very friendly and allowed us to charge up the batteries and check the internet while we enjoyed a frappe. He also said we were welcome to park in the taverna grounds. His father, George gave us a couple of glasses of his own wine and very nice too.
Once fully charged we drove to Ramnous, the ancient site of the Temple of Nemesis. On the way we drove through a swampy area full of water birds. The roads were flooded for long distances and it reminded us of our Land Rovering days.
Once fully charged we drove to Ramnous, the ancient site of the Temple of Nemesis. On the way we drove through a swampy area full of water birds. The roads were flooded for long distances and it reminded us of our Land Rovering days.
Part of Ramnus ruins.
The site was interesting but we could not visit the whole area because of a staff shortage. We could walk up the “Sacred Way”, visit the ruins of the temple and back along another path. There are a few Tholos tombs along the way. The ruins extend down to the sea where we could not go. The cult statue of Nemesis is the only one remaining cult statue from the high classical period and the head of the statue is in the British Museum.
Ramnous ruins: N 38.215659°, E 24.028005°
We returned to Schinias Taverna where we had a quick cleaning inside Bessy before entering the taverna. It started to rain again, but promises to be better tomorrow. Ioanni served us lamb chops from the grill… half a kilo for two people. We also had fried courgette slices, beetroot salad, grilled slices of bread with olive oil and oregano. On top of all that we had chips, red wine and beer. Katerina, Ioanni’s wife, also made something we do not know the name of. It was a paste made of garlic, potato and bread with vinegar and olive oil… on the house. It was delicious with the grilled bread.
After abandoning the diet for the day we sat next to the family and some friends and drank several glasses of Raki from Crete. The friends included an English woman and a Greek man who lives in America. We had a lovely evening and we can highly recommend a visit.
Ramnous ruins: N 38.215659°, E 24.028005°
We returned to Schinias Taverna where we had a quick cleaning inside Bessy before entering the taverna. It started to rain again, but promises to be better tomorrow. Ioanni served us lamb chops from the grill… half a kilo for two people. We also had fried courgette slices, beetroot salad, grilled slices of bread with olive oil and oregano. On top of all that we had chips, red wine and beer. Katerina, Ioanni’s wife, also made something we do not know the name of. It was a paste made of garlic, potato and bread with vinegar and olive oil… on the house. It was delicious with the grilled bread.
After abandoning the diet for the day we sat next to the family and some friends and drank several glasses of Raki from Crete. The friends included an English woman and a Greek man who lives in America. We had a lovely evening and we can highly recommend a visit.
Marathonas Dam.
Sunday 14 April 2019
Spooky dog
We were just preparing to leave around 1000 when Ioanni arrived with his colleagues to open up the taverna. For some reason they had no electricity, but they made us a Greek coffee, on the house. We thanked them for their hospitality and left.
The road to Marathon dam is a bit wiggly but acceptable. We crossed the dam and managed to park on the north side to take photos. It is very impressive especially as it is lined (? the dam not the reservoir) with marble.
Our plan was to stop at Thermopylae even though we have heard that the area is rich in migrants and “not safe”. The road south-west was OK but built up as we approached the E75 motorway. We took the road and headed in the Lamia direction. About 1300 the heavens opened yet again so we stopped at a service station near Taxiarches for lunch.
Spooky dog
We were just preparing to leave around 1000 when Ioanni arrived with his colleagues to open up the taverna. For some reason they had no electricity, but they made us a Greek coffee, on the house. We thanked them for their hospitality and left.
The road to Marathon dam is a bit wiggly but acceptable. We crossed the dam and managed to park on the north side to take photos. It is very impressive especially as it is lined (? the dam not the reservoir) with marble.
Our plan was to stop at Thermopylae even though we have heard that the area is rich in migrants and “not safe”. The road south-west was OK but built up as we approached the E75 motorway. We took the road and headed in the Lamia direction. About 1300 the heavens opened yet again so we stopped at a service station near Taxiarches for lunch.
Friendly... but spooky!
The motorway eventually follows the coast and we exited the motorway near Loggos and drove through olive groves for about 2 km to the seafront. It had a long wide beach with working showers and taps on a dirt road alongside the sandy/grassy beach. In the distance was another interesting looking motorhome. As soon as we opened the door we were welcomed to Akti Beach by 4 dogs. Like most stray dogs they were polite and friendly but one of them had white eyes and looked very spooky. He turned out to be very friendly.
A little later a man walked towards us from the other MH who we thought should be German. To our surprise he was Scottish with a Spanish wife. We made a coffee and had a chat. They always wild camp and had been here for 3 weeks. We’re glad we found this spot instead of Thermopylae. If nothing else it is easier to approach from the motorway.
Later in the day a German and a Dutch van arrived.
A little later a man walked towards us from the other MH who we thought should be German. To our surprise he was Scottish with a Spanish wife. We made a coffee and had a chat. They always wild camp and had been here for 3 weeks. We’re glad we found this spot instead of Thermopylae. If nothing else it is easier to approach from the motorway.
Later in the day a German and a Dutch van arrived.
Monday 15 April 2019
Yorkshire pudding
After a peaceful night we decided to do a bit of shopping in the nearest town Agios Konstantinos. However the road system was such that we missed the entry and went on to Kamena Vourla which turned out to be quiet a nice place. We stopped for a coffee and then went to a supermarket for groceries. We also bought some dog biscuits for the strays… yes we are soft.
Judit made grilled garlic and cheesy aubergines on fried flatbread for lunch. Then we went for a ramble along the beach and looked at some large holiday houses. Our Scots friend and wife were discussing Yorkshire pudding so Ian gave them a recipe and some hints. Next day they told us the Yorkies were excellent.
In the evening Ian made pigs-in-blankets, mushy peas and sweet potato wedges. Yummy.
Yorkshire pudding
After a peaceful night we decided to do a bit of shopping in the nearest town Agios Konstantinos. However the road system was such that we missed the entry and went on to Kamena Vourla which turned out to be quiet a nice place. We stopped for a coffee and then went to a supermarket for groceries. We also bought some dog biscuits for the strays… yes we are soft.
Judit made grilled garlic and cheesy aubergines on fried flatbread for lunch. Then we went for a ramble along the beach and looked at some large holiday houses. Our Scots friend and wife were discussing Yorkshire pudding so Ian gave them a recipe and some hints. Next day they told us the Yorkies were excellent.
In the evening Ian made pigs-in-blankets, mushy peas and sweet potato wedges. Yummy.
Church in the Tenbi Valley.
Tuesday 16 April 2019
Tenbi Valley
We said our goodbyes to our new friends and drove on the non-motorway road through Lamia, Domokos and Farsala where we stopped at a Lidl. In the field around the store were several Guinea Fowl. The road out of Lamia was a long drag over the mountains and down the other side. All very impressive on generally good roads.
After Larissa we still kept off the motorway to Gonni and Tempi. Some maps call it Tembi. This was the entrance to the narrow valley through the mountains. The motorway uses a tunnel to bypass the gorge.
About halfway through the gorge is a large car park. While Ian kept an eye on Bessy, Judit went exploring down a spooky underpass that went under the road to the river. Surprisingly there were stall selling souvenir tat and icons. Several small puppies were attracted to Judit and chewed her shoes. Judit then found a bridge over the river. On the other side was a church built under the rocks. Not far from the church was passage that became narrower and narrower and at the end of the passage was a spring… a Holy Spring of course.
Church Car Park: N 39.878402°, E 22.586141°
Tenbi Valley
We said our goodbyes to our new friends and drove on the non-motorway road through Lamia, Domokos and Farsala where we stopped at a Lidl. In the field around the store were several Guinea Fowl. The road out of Lamia was a long drag over the mountains and down the other side. All very impressive on generally good roads.
After Larissa we still kept off the motorway to Gonni and Tempi. Some maps call it Tembi. This was the entrance to the narrow valley through the mountains. The motorway uses a tunnel to bypass the gorge.
About halfway through the gorge is a large car park. While Ian kept an eye on Bessy, Judit went exploring down a spooky underpass that went under the road to the river. Surprisingly there were stall selling souvenir tat and icons. Several small puppies were attracted to Judit and chewed her shoes. Judit then found a bridge over the river. On the other side was a church built under the rocks. Not far from the church was passage that became narrower and narrower and at the end of the passage was a spring… a Holy Spring of course.
Church Car Park: N 39.878402°, E 22.586141°
Camp Poseidon shanty town.
Once she returned we continued north to Paralia Pantaleimona and Camp Poseidon. The camp is mainly for static caravans looking a bit like a shanty town and very limited space for touring motorhomes. Some of the pitches were too small for Bessy, so we moved. Then we found we were too far from the electric hookup, so we moved again. There was another GB van and some Germans.
Judit found the washing machines and filled one at 1700. It was still going at 2000.
The campsite is not cheap at €22.00 for 2 people, the van, electricity and wifi. Ian managed to knock the price down to €17.00 because it is out of season and we have an ACSI card. The wifi connection was a disaster. One of those that is free but you have to log in when a window appears. After messing around for an hour Ian went to speak to the man at reception. It was like discussing nuclear fusion with Manuel from Fawlty Towers. He kept saying, “Window opens”. Ian kept showing his that there was no window and went down the list of his own bookmarks. After 17 different websites a window suddenly opened when Ian clicked on Google Maps. Manuel immediately pointed out that Ian had been doing it wrong and now he suddenly did the right thing. John Cleese would have slapped him round the head!
Judit found the washing machines and filled one at 1700. It was still going at 2000.
The campsite is not cheap at €22.00 for 2 people, the van, electricity and wifi. Ian managed to knock the price down to €17.00 because it is out of season and we have an ACSI card. The wifi connection was a disaster. One of those that is free but you have to log in when a window appears. After messing around for an hour Ian went to speak to the man at reception. It was like discussing nuclear fusion with Manuel from Fawlty Towers. He kept saying, “Window opens”. Ian kept showing his that there was no window and went down the list of his own bookmarks. After 17 different websites a window suddenly opened when Ian clicked on Google Maps. Manuel immediately pointed out that Ian had been doing it wrong and now he suddenly did the right thing. John Cleese would have slapped him round the head!
Close to beach at Camp Poseidon.
Wednesday 17 April 2019
Sunny
The good thing about Poseidon Camp is the proximity to the beach for the motorhomes. Judit went exploring and met a fisherman who had caught 3 squid. The beach is wider than Finikunda and has very soft sand.
There are many hotels and a few “shanty town” campsites, mainly closed. Some apartments and tavernas and several “supermarkets”.
In the afternoon Ian cut his hair and beard. We cleaned Bessy and had showers before Judit took Ian for a walk along the beach.
Thursday 18 April 2019
Thunder
We decided to stay one more night, mainly to charge things up and do some more washing. Ian made a couple of frappes and we sat on the beach to enjoy them.
Today is a bit more cloudy and windy, and we even heard thunder but so far no rain.
Just 100 meters from the camp is an ATM which was really handy. In the evening Judit made a Hungarian pörkölt with rice.
Sunny
The good thing about Poseidon Camp is the proximity to the beach for the motorhomes. Judit went exploring and met a fisherman who had caught 3 squid. The beach is wider than Finikunda and has very soft sand.
There are many hotels and a few “shanty town” campsites, mainly closed. Some apartments and tavernas and several “supermarkets”.
In the afternoon Ian cut his hair and beard. We cleaned Bessy and had showers before Judit took Ian for a walk along the beach.
Thursday 18 April 2019
Thunder
We decided to stay one more night, mainly to charge things up and do some more washing. Ian made a couple of frappes and we sat on the beach to enjoy them.
Today is a bit more cloudy and windy, and we even heard thunder but so far no rain.
Just 100 meters from the camp is an ATM which was really handy. In the evening Judit made a Hungarian pörkölt with rice.
Good value, good price grub.
Friday 19 April 2019
Long run
We said goodbye to Manuel and went on to the motorway towards Thessaloniki when we moved to the “red roads” in the direction of Kavala. The road ran south of Lake Koronia and Lake Volvi via Gerakou, Nea Apolonia, Nea Maditos and Stavros.
Shortly after we left Thessaloniki we bought the cheapest diesel in Greece at €1.28 a liter. On the same road we saw several kantina. They are much more common than further south. We stopped at one and Judit had a souvlaki in a nice toasted bun with salad bits, chips, mustard and ketchup, plus hot chilli flakes. Ian had 2 burgers in his bun with everything on top. Both were excellent and we enjoyed them very much sat outside looking at the view and marvelling that they cost only €2 each.
Kantina: N 40.654859°, E 23.316016°
Long run
We said goodbye to Manuel and went on to the motorway towards Thessaloniki when we moved to the “red roads” in the direction of Kavala. The road ran south of Lake Koronia and Lake Volvi via Gerakou, Nea Apolonia, Nea Maditos and Stavros.
Shortly after we left Thessaloniki we bought the cheapest diesel in Greece at €1.28 a liter. On the same road we saw several kantina. They are much more common than further south. We stopped at one and Judit had a souvlaki in a nice toasted bun with salad bits, chips, mustard and ketchup, plus hot chilli flakes. Ian had 2 burgers in his bun with everything on top. Both were excellent and we enjoyed them very much sat outside looking at the view and marvelling that they cost only €2 each.
Kantina: N 40.654859°, E 23.316016°
Aristotle was here.
The countryside was more hilly than we had expected and it was a very pleasant journey to Olympiada. We arrived at 1400 and soon found an ideal spot near the harbour next to a small church. The village is very pleasant and is where Aristotle was born in 384 BC.
The kind man at Hotel Akroyiali Beach was very helpful and in addition to giving us a tourist guide he explained a lot more things about the area. While Ian had a siesta Judit went exploring and discovered the opening times for the Stageria ancient site. Tomorrow morning when the sun is not too hot! In the meantime we had a walk around the village.
The kind man at Hotel Akroyiali Beach was very helpful and in addition to giving us a tourist guide he explained a lot more things about the area. While Ian had a siesta Judit went exploring and discovered the opening times for the Stageria ancient site. Tomorrow morning when the sun is not too hot! In the meantime we had a walk around the village.
Stageira. NIce location worth visiting.
Saturday 20 April 2019
Aristotle again
The day started cloudy and therefore much better for walking. Our man at the hotel told us we should start at the top entrance then we would not have to climb so many steps.
Ancient Stageira is set on the Liotopi Peninsular and it played an important part in Macedonian history. The site is well signed in Greek and English and the paths are well maintained between the various elements of the site. There are some steep sections but the views are good in most parts. Aristotle’s burial monument is probably the main attraction. He studied at the Academy of Plato until Plato’s death in 347 BC. Aristotle founded his own school in the city of Assos. Later he was called to Pella by Phillip II to be the teacher of Alexander; which he did for 3 years.
After the death of Alexander Aristotle took refuge in Chalkis, where he died in 322 BC at the age of 63. His body was taken back to Stageira and buried there.
Aristotle again
The day started cloudy and therefore much better for walking. Our man at the hotel told us we should start at the top entrance then we would not have to climb so many steps.
Ancient Stageira is set on the Liotopi Peninsular and it played an important part in Macedonian history. The site is well signed in Greek and English and the paths are well maintained between the various elements of the site. There are some steep sections but the views are good in most parts. Aristotle’s burial monument is probably the main attraction. He studied at the Academy of Plato until Plato’s death in 347 BC. Aristotle founded his own school in the city of Assos. Later he was called to Pella by Phillip II to be the teacher of Alexander; which he did for 3 years.
After the death of Alexander Aristotle took refuge in Chalkis, where he died in 322 BC at the age of 63. His body was taken back to Stageira and buried there.
The Black Rose.
Sunday 21 April 2019
No Women
We wanted to go as far south as possible on the “third finger” to Mount Athos border. The end of the peninsula is reserved for monks. Women are not allowed. It has been said that no female animals are allowed either!
So we went south to Ouranopoli as it’s the last town before the border. The road crosses from the east coast to the west coast at the narrowest point.
To be honest we were shocked and found it quite depressing. The town consisted of two car parks and hundreds of shops selling souvenir tat, cafes and restaurants. The streets were lined with coaches and cars. We even had difficulty turning round to leave the town.
Judit took a photo of an ancient tower for some reason and then we left as quickly as possible.
The peninsula itself is actually very attractive with hills covered in mixed forests, lots of small coves and beaches and small villages. Lerissos has a harbour outside of town. We stopped for lunch and then went to look at a black pirate ship called “Black Rose”. The crew were very nice guys and welcomed us on board where we could take as many photos as we wanted.
The boat was newly built and fitted with many items from Asia, particularly Thailand. The sails were for decoration so the vessel was powered by motor. The bar was below and another deck below that. The plan was to sail it through the Corinth Canal to Corfu for the tourist trade.
No Women
We wanted to go as far south as possible on the “third finger” to Mount Athos border. The end of the peninsula is reserved for monks. Women are not allowed. It has been said that no female animals are allowed either!
So we went south to Ouranopoli as it’s the last town before the border. The road crosses from the east coast to the west coast at the narrowest point.
To be honest we were shocked and found it quite depressing. The town consisted of two car parks and hundreds of shops selling souvenir tat, cafes and restaurants. The streets were lined with coaches and cars. We even had difficulty turning round to leave the town.
Judit took a photo of an ancient tower for some reason and then we left as quickly as possible.
The peninsula itself is actually very attractive with hills covered in mixed forests, lots of small coves and beaches and small villages. Lerissos has a harbour outside of town. We stopped for lunch and then went to look at a black pirate ship called “Black Rose”. The crew were very nice guys and welcomed us on board where we could take as many photos as we wanted.
The boat was newly built and fitted with many items from Asia, particularly Thailand. The sails were for decoration so the vessel was powered by motor. The bar was below and another deck below that. The plan was to sail it through the Corinth Canal to Corfu for the tourist trade.
Pollen from pine trees.
In Lerissos Judit tried to find a hairdresser but had no joy. So we drove a little north of the town and took a dirt road on the right to the beach area. We parked next to the pine trees for some shade. In the gentle breeze the trees were making clouds of pollen and it was settling on Bessy. Quite strange to see so much.
This Night Spot was very peaceful and we were only visited by stray dogs. We fed 2 of them with our newly bought food. Walking along the dirt tracks towards town we came to a ford so turned back. But this is clearly the best road to get to the Night Stop. The one we used first was very rough.
In the evening we had roast pork, sweet potatoes and a tomato/beetroot salad.
This Night Spot was very peaceful and we were only visited by stray dogs. We fed 2 of them with our newly bought food. Walking along the dirt tracks towards town we came to a ford so turned back. But this is clearly the best road to get to the Night Stop. The one we used first was very rough.
In the evening we had roast pork, sweet potatoes and a tomato/beetroot salad.
Monday 22 April 2019
No hairdresser
At 1030 very few places were open including a hairdresser so we planned for a coffee. However that was very full and no sockets were available to allow us to charge up. The decision was to head back to Olympiada where we had enjoyed a stay the other day.
Our coffee was in a different cafe and it was very nice too.
The weather was nice and sunny but it did not help in the search for a hairdresser. Probably places are closed because of Greek Orthodox Easter Week… but we could be wrong.
No hairdresser
At 1030 very few places were open including a hairdresser so we planned for a coffee. However that was very full and no sockets were available to allow us to charge up. The decision was to head back to Olympiada where we had enjoyed a stay the other day.
Our coffee was in a different cafe and it was very nice too.
The weather was nice and sunny but it did not help in the search for a hairdresser. Probably places are closed because of Greek Orthodox Easter Week… but we could be wrong.
For scale, look at Ian bottom right.
Tuesday 23 April 2019
Hair and a Lion
First stop this morning was Stavros. Quite a busy holiday place with a big busy harbour with lots of parking…. so we did.
A very pleasant and helpful young lady at a kiosk telephoned a hairdresser for Judit but she was very busy. Just across the roundabout was a large cafe called Bel Air where we went for coffee and a charge up. Interestingly the toilet was across the street in a bakers.
Judit went back to the kiosk and the young lady told her of two other hairdressers. While Ian played with the computer in the cafe, Judit went to the hairdresser and was told to return in 45 minutes. So after doing a bit of shopping she returned to the hairdresser and reappeared 2 hours later with nice new hair.
After lunch in Bessy we drove north on the coast road in the direction of Kavala. We stopped near Amfipolos to look at the gigantic 4th century BC Lion of Amfipolos. Very impressive.
About 12 kilometer further along the coast we came to Orfani Beach where we parked for the night. We were close to the sea and next to the empty site of a kantina. The owner clearly had made and effort to make the place attractive with a couple of palm trees, flowers and green grass.
Later a Frenchman arrived in a small van. He lived in the USA and was travelling around Europe.
In the middle of the night a couple of cars arrived complete with dunga-dunga music blaring out and people talking loudly. One of the cars left but the dunga-dunga carried on for another half hour.
Hair and a Lion
First stop this morning was Stavros. Quite a busy holiday place with a big busy harbour with lots of parking…. so we did.
A very pleasant and helpful young lady at a kiosk telephoned a hairdresser for Judit but she was very busy. Just across the roundabout was a large cafe called Bel Air where we went for coffee and a charge up. Interestingly the toilet was across the street in a bakers.
Judit went back to the kiosk and the young lady told her of two other hairdressers. While Ian played with the computer in the cafe, Judit went to the hairdresser and was told to return in 45 minutes. So after doing a bit of shopping she returned to the hairdresser and reappeared 2 hours later with nice new hair.
After lunch in Bessy we drove north on the coast road in the direction of Kavala. We stopped near Amfipolos to look at the gigantic 4th century BC Lion of Amfipolos. Very impressive.
About 12 kilometer further along the coast we came to Orfani Beach where we parked for the night. We were close to the sea and next to the empty site of a kantina. The owner clearly had made and effort to make the place attractive with a couple of palm trees, flowers and green grass.
Later a Frenchman arrived in a small van. He lived in the USA and was travelling around Europe.
In the middle of the night a couple of cars arrived complete with dunga-dunga music blaring out and people talking loudly. One of the cars left but the dunga-dunga carried on for another half hour.
We did not park Bessy here!
Wednesday 24 April 2019
Mad parking in Kavala
The choice was Philippi or Kavala; as we had been to Philippi some years before we went to Kavala. The coast road was good and as we neared Kavala it became quite built up with holiday places and beaches.
The town is built up on the hillside overlooking the sea, rather like a giant amphitheatre. We found two large car parks and both were full so we continued towards the castle area where we found another car park. Cars were queuing to enter this one so Judit went to speak to an attendant. He guided us to an entrance for buses and helped us park. He did tell us that we may not be able to leave later because of parked cars. As we planned to spend the night there it would not be a problem. Cost €6.00 for a day and €4.00 for the night. We agreed and went to the nearest cafe.
Lonely Planet is sometimes useful. This time it was not as we could not find the Tourist Information office. A taxi driver told us that it had never been on that street and pointed us in the right direction. The nice lady there gave us some maps and information.
Mad parking in Kavala
The choice was Philippi or Kavala; as we had been to Philippi some years before we went to Kavala. The coast road was good and as we neared Kavala it became quite built up with holiday places and beaches.
The town is built up on the hillside overlooking the sea, rather like a giant amphitheatre. We found two large car parks and both were full so we continued towards the castle area where we found another car park. Cars were queuing to enter this one so Judit went to speak to an attendant. He guided us to an entrance for buses and helped us park. He did tell us that we may not be able to leave later because of parked cars. As we planned to spend the night there it would not be a problem. Cost €6.00 for a day and €4.00 for the night. We agreed and went to the nearest cafe.
Lonely Planet is sometimes useful. This time it was not as we could not find the Tourist Information office. A taxi driver told us that it had never been on that street and pointed us in the right direction. The nice lady there gave us some maps and information.
Kavala aquaduct from the castle.
Off we trotted to the Tobacco Museum. It would help if the streets had names. Some did but most did not. After half an hour of walkimg up and down various streets we found the place. Kavala had been famous for tobacco production and processing. They shipped the finished product all over the world.
Next the folk art museum at the old tobacco warehouse. Wrong. The place was still under construction! But the highlight of the area was a large car park with all the cars parked within inches of each other. It was impossible to walk between them. At the entrance was a small hut and a board with hooks. All the hooks had car keys hanging from them. We had no idea what the system was.
Ian finally found an ATM but he was not successful. Do not try 3 times!!
Time to look at the castle. We walked up steep cobbled streets lined with Turkish looking buildings. Once in the castle we had great views over the town and especially the 3-tier 280 meter long aqueduct.
The weather had been warm all day and we enjoyed a nice cool drink in the castle before walking downhill to find Mehmet Ali’s house. It was closed from 1400. Bugger! But we could admire the outside and a statue of him on his horse.
We were tired and hungry so we walked down into town and stopped in the narrow streets for a mixed meat dish with chips and beetroot salad.
The car park was not 100% full when we arrived so we quickly paid and drove back to Orfani Beach. The SatNav took us back a different way. Why? But never mind as the route was interesting over the hills.
The kantina owner appeared in the evening and in the morning he was back again, watering the grass. Probably planning to open at Easter weekend.
Next the folk art museum at the old tobacco warehouse. Wrong. The place was still under construction! But the highlight of the area was a large car park with all the cars parked within inches of each other. It was impossible to walk between them. At the entrance was a small hut and a board with hooks. All the hooks had car keys hanging from them. We had no idea what the system was.
Ian finally found an ATM but he was not successful. Do not try 3 times!!
Time to look at the castle. We walked up steep cobbled streets lined with Turkish looking buildings. Once in the castle we had great views over the town and especially the 3-tier 280 meter long aqueduct.
The weather had been warm all day and we enjoyed a nice cool drink in the castle before walking downhill to find Mehmet Ali’s house. It was closed from 1400. Bugger! But we could admire the outside and a statue of him on his horse.
We were tired and hungry so we walked down into town and stopped in the narrow streets for a mixed meat dish with chips and beetroot salad.
The car park was not 100% full when we arrived so we quickly paid and drove back to Orfani Beach. The SatNav took us back a different way. Why? But never mind as the route was interesting over the hills.
The kantina owner appeared in the evening and in the morning he was back again, watering the grass. Probably planning to open at Easter weekend.
In Amfipoli museum.
Thursday 25 April 2019
Easter Bread
On our way to Amfipoli Museum we stopped for some shopping before the Easter weekend. One item was the Easter Bread which is a large brioche type of bread with a red boiled egg in the centre. Very tasty.
The museum was good and had a wide range of goodies but the outside sites were not open because of staff shortages… again. Judit bought a book so she could see what we were missing.
Ian was still looking for an ATM so we drove back to Stavros, sorted out the banking and had a coffee in Bel Aire again. The harbour area was filling up with large trucks so we decided not to stay the night. Just up the road was Asprovalta where we found a good spot on a very wide straight tarmac road. Ian went to a couple of kiosks for some cigars and came back mumbling about the two miserable kiosk owners. What a change from the lovely lass in Stavros.
Easter Bread
On our way to Amfipoli Museum we stopped for some shopping before the Easter weekend. One item was the Easter Bread which is a large brioche type of bread with a red boiled egg in the centre. Very tasty.
The museum was good and had a wide range of goodies but the outside sites were not open because of staff shortages… again. Judit bought a book so she could see what we were missing.
Ian was still looking for an ATM so we drove back to Stavros, sorted out the banking and had a coffee in Bel Aire again. The harbour area was filling up with large trucks so we decided not to stay the night. Just up the road was Asprovalta where we found a good spot on a very wide straight tarmac road. Ian went to a couple of kiosks for some cigars and came back mumbling about the two miserable kiosk owners. What a change from the lovely lass in Stavros.
The Epitaph procession starts.
Friday 26 April 2019
Good Friday
Today we had a longish drive to our favourite taverna, Elodia Taverna next to Lake Kerkini. Although the place was throbbing with guests we were very warmly welcomed by the family.
Around 2030 we drove into the village and parked out of the way before walking to the church. A lot of people were standing outside waiting for the epitaph to come out of the church, so we had a quick peek inside. It was very ornate with many frescos and icons as are all Greek Orthodox churches.
The epitaph is a symbolic coffin of Christ and is decorated with flowers. We hurried after the procession as it made its way through the village. On the way we met up with the “Elodia” family outside their house. It was quite a long walk around the village and seemed to be moving at high speed. Chrissi told us that the priest leading the procession is a tall man who takes big strides.
Back at the church the epitaph was held near the entrance and everyone had to duck under the epitaph to enter the church. There was a short service and then people started to move out. We were told it is a tradition to take flowers from the epitaph and keep it with the Easter Candle for the whole year. We ended up with a white rose and a white carnation. A very interesting evening.
Good Friday
Today we had a longish drive to our favourite taverna, Elodia Taverna next to Lake Kerkini. Although the place was throbbing with guests we were very warmly welcomed by the family.
Around 2030 we drove into the village and parked out of the way before walking to the church. A lot of people were standing outside waiting for the epitaph to come out of the church, so we had a quick peek inside. It was very ornate with many frescos and icons as are all Greek Orthodox churches.
The epitaph is a symbolic coffin of Christ and is decorated with flowers. We hurried after the procession as it made its way through the village. On the way we met up with the “Elodia” family outside their house. It was quite a long walk around the village and seemed to be moving at high speed. Chrissi told us that the priest leading the procession is a tall man who takes big strides.
Back at the church the epitaph was held near the entrance and everyone had to duck under the epitaph to enter the church. There was a short service and then people started to move out. We were told it is a tradition to take flowers from the epitaph and keep it with the Easter Candle for the whole year. We ended up with a white rose and a white carnation. A very interesting evening.
Article from the Greek Reporter
Yes, you could use Google to learn many things about Greece. Or read a text book or tourist guidebook. But there is much more to this country than meets the (evil) eye! Here are 15 wacky (and fascinating) facts about Greece that you won’t learn in school or in a guidebook!
Greeks are superstitious. Very superstitious. One superstition shared by all Greeks is the evil eye, or “Mati.” The belief is that someone can cast the evil eye onto another person out of envy and jealousy. Once you have the evil eye, you must find someone to perform a ceremony to destroy the evil energy!
Spitting is encouraged in Greece and you will see old yiayia’s (grandmothers) spitting on their grandchildren all the time! Since time immemorial, Greeks have believed that spitting on someone is a way of combatting any form of evil energy or presence. It’s actually more like a ceremonial “Ftoo, Ftoo, Ftoo”; just be aware!
Greeks steal plants from one another… and admit to it, and encourage it! You probably won’t find in your Fodor’s guidebook the fun fact that Greeks believe that plants and flowers will only root if they are stolen! They will actually tell you to come back later to steal from them if you would like some cuttings from their plants (which are also from stolen cuttings).
Greeks believe in “magical bread”. You see, Greeks believe that bread is a gift from God with roots from the Bible story of the Sermon on the Mount. This leads to many villagers never throwing away any bread, because it is considered bad luck, using leftovers to feed to the animals. Also, many Greeks are superstitious about who eats the heel of the loaf. It is believed that young single women should eat it and then their future mother-in-laws will like them. This tradition begins when girls are as young as 5 years of age!
Waving hello = BAD! The common “palm facing out” gesture, known as the “moutza” in Greece, is a normal form of greeting for most people worldwide … but if you see Greeks doing this, they’re not waving hello, they are basically flipping you the bird! Greeks wave either with their palms to the side or facing them. To be on the safe side, just greet people the good old-fashioned way in Greece — with a kiss on each cheek.
Symbolism in passing someone a knife. Beware! Never, under ANY circumstances, should you hand someone a knife in Greece. The proper way to give someone a knife is to set it down on a table and let the other person pick it up. It is believed that if you hand the person the knife that you want to fight with them!
Salt is powerful stuff, according to Greeks. In fact, according to Greek Folklore, salt can even be used to get rid of an unwanted guest! The process is so simple, you should try it out next time you want someone to leave your house. Just sprinkle a little bit of salt behind them — it is thought that the salt has powers that will drive them to leave your house.
When you think of Greece, you think of Feta cheese, ouzo, and many other typical items associated with the country and culture. But did you know that Greece is the world’s largest producer of sea sponges? The island of Kalymnos is famous for their beautiful natural sponges that people dive for and then sell. Next time you are using a natural sponge, think Greece!
Easter time in Greece is magical, and the biggest holiday celebrated in the country. However, Greeks believe in some pretty weird things in regard to Easter (Pascha). One of the weirdest is that salt, eggs and bread are forbidden to leave your home after sundown, under penalty of bringing bad luck to the house! So, if someone comes knocking at your door after sundown asking for salt, eggs or bread you shouldn’t give these things to them.
If someone wants an egg, invite them in and cook it for them; never give it to them to take out of your house. Also, in an even stranger twist on this belief, if you want to give a guest a doggie bag that has bread of any kind in it and you know that they will be leaving your house after dark, you must leave the bag with the bread outside of the front door before the sun goes down. Only then may they take it with them.
All Greeks over the age of 18 are required to vote by law. There is no opt-out option when it comes to voting, yet a lot of Greeks don’t vote. Ponder that for a while…
Blue roof tops are more than aesthetic… according to Greek folk tradition, rooftops are painted blue in order to ward off evil!
Greeks are touchy about their coffee. If you ask a Greek for some Turkish coffee, odds are they will give you the evil eye! Truly, do not ever make this request – not in a Greek person’s home nor in a cafeteria. First of all, it is Greek coffee and you will be told its entire back story (so be sure to get comfy first!). Secondly, you’re in Greece, so again, it’s Greek coffee!
Greeks have a tradition of wearing black after the death of a spouse or loved one. Some people will wear it for the entire year following the death of someone close to them such as a parent, while widows often will wear a black dress every day for the rest of their entire lives!
Greeks cash in so big on their “name day” that this day is actually considered of greater importance than their birthday. Most Greek names have saints associated with them, and your name day is celebrated on the annual feast day of that saint. Every Greek person will have at least one name day to celebrate within the calendar year.
Annually, Greece breaks a unique tourist record… as the only country in the world that can claim having two tourists per one Greek! Amazingly, Greece has double the number of tourists than it has in actual population. And that number is growing, as tourism continues to reach new heights each year in the country.
Yes, you could use Google to learn many things about Greece. Or read a text book or tourist guidebook. But there is much more to this country than meets the (evil) eye! Here are 15 wacky (and fascinating) facts about Greece that you won’t learn in school or in a guidebook!
Greeks are superstitious. Very superstitious. One superstition shared by all Greeks is the evil eye, or “Mati.” The belief is that someone can cast the evil eye onto another person out of envy and jealousy. Once you have the evil eye, you must find someone to perform a ceremony to destroy the evil energy!
Spitting is encouraged in Greece and you will see old yiayia’s (grandmothers) spitting on their grandchildren all the time! Since time immemorial, Greeks have believed that spitting on someone is a way of combatting any form of evil energy or presence. It’s actually more like a ceremonial “Ftoo, Ftoo, Ftoo”; just be aware!
Greeks steal plants from one another… and admit to it, and encourage it! You probably won’t find in your Fodor’s guidebook the fun fact that Greeks believe that plants and flowers will only root if they are stolen! They will actually tell you to come back later to steal from them if you would like some cuttings from their plants (which are also from stolen cuttings).
Greeks believe in “magical bread”. You see, Greeks believe that bread is a gift from God with roots from the Bible story of the Sermon on the Mount. This leads to many villagers never throwing away any bread, because it is considered bad luck, using leftovers to feed to the animals. Also, many Greeks are superstitious about who eats the heel of the loaf. It is believed that young single women should eat it and then their future mother-in-laws will like them. This tradition begins when girls are as young as 5 years of age!
Waving hello = BAD! The common “palm facing out” gesture, known as the “moutza” in Greece, is a normal form of greeting for most people worldwide … but if you see Greeks doing this, they’re not waving hello, they are basically flipping you the bird! Greeks wave either with their palms to the side or facing them. To be on the safe side, just greet people the good old-fashioned way in Greece — with a kiss on each cheek.
Symbolism in passing someone a knife. Beware! Never, under ANY circumstances, should you hand someone a knife in Greece. The proper way to give someone a knife is to set it down on a table and let the other person pick it up. It is believed that if you hand the person the knife that you want to fight with them!
Salt is powerful stuff, according to Greeks. In fact, according to Greek Folklore, salt can even be used to get rid of an unwanted guest! The process is so simple, you should try it out next time you want someone to leave your house. Just sprinkle a little bit of salt behind them — it is thought that the salt has powers that will drive them to leave your house.
When you think of Greece, you think of Feta cheese, ouzo, and many other typical items associated with the country and culture. But did you know that Greece is the world’s largest producer of sea sponges? The island of Kalymnos is famous for their beautiful natural sponges that people dive for and then sell. Next time you are using a natural sponge, think Greece!
Easter time in Greece is magical, and the biggest holiday celebrated in the country. However, Greeks believe in some pretty weird things in regard to Easter (Pascha). One of the weirdest is that salt, eggs and bread are forbidden to leave your home after sundown, under penalty of bringing bad luck to the house! So, if someone comes knocking at your door after sundown asking for salt, eggs or bread you shouldn’t give these things to them.
If someone wants an egg, invite them in and cook it for them; never give it to them to take out of your house. Also, in an even stranger twist on this belief, if you want to give a guest a doggie bag that has bread of any kind in it and you know that they will be leaving your house after dark, you must leave the bag with the bread outside of the front door before the sun goes down. Only then may they take it with them.
All Greeks over the age of 18 are required to vote by law. There is no opt-out option when it comes to voting, yet a lot of Greeks don’t vote. Ponder that for a while…
Blue roof tops are more than aesthetic… according to Greek folk tradition, rooftops are painted blue in order to ward off evil!
Greeks are touchy about their coffee. If you ask a Greek for some Turkish coffee, odds are they will give you the evil eye! Truly, do not ever make this request – not in a Greek person’s home nor in a cafeteria. First of all, it is Greek coffee and you will be told its entire back story (so be sure to get comfy first!). Secondly, you’re in Greece, so again, it’s Greek coffee!
Greeks have a tradition of wearing black after the death of a spouse or loved one. Some people will wear it for the entire year following the death of someone close to them such as a parent, while widows often will wear a black dress every day for the rest of their entire lives!
Greeks cash in so big on their “name day” that this day is actually considered of greater importance than their birthday. Most Greek names have saints associated with them, and your name day is celebrated on the annual feast day of that saint. Every Greek person will have at least one name day to celebrate within the calendar year.
Annually, Greece breaks a unique tourist record… as the only country in the world that can claim having two tourists per one Greek! Amazingly, Greece has double the number of tourists than it has in actual population. And that number is growing, as tourism continues to reach new heights each year in the country.
In the tunnels at Fort Roupel.
Saturday 27 April 2019
Fort Roupel
Yesterday we met a Greek gentleman who said they had just visited a military museum near the Bulgarian border. He told us of a 5 km long tunnel that we could visit.
Before leaving we went into the kitchen where Aristides and his father were preparing the lambs for tomorrow. It did not look easy as there was a lot of wire holding the carcass to the skewer. They were preparing 2 lambs and 2 goats. Ian volunteered to help, which would mean getting up at 0500 tomorrow morning.
Roupel was only 45 minutes away and we found the place to be very busy and very interesting. Because the place is a military site we had to hand over one passport to the very polite and friendly soldier at the gate. After climbing 2.5 km up the mountain on a very good road we arrived at the top where another soldier guided us to the best parking area. Another soldier took us to meet yet another soldier called George, who spoke English. His profession, outside the army, was historian and he gave us a very detailed account of the old fortress.
It was built on this mountain because it overlooked the pass from Bulgaria. At the time in the late 1930’s Bulgaria was a threat to Greece. The project was started in 1936 and finished in 1940.The view from the top was excellent and on a clear day we would see Sandanski. There was another facility on a mountain at the other side of the valley.
Basically these places held back the Germans when they invaded Greece. The place could hold 44 Officers and around 1000 troops. However a lot of the men had been sent west to try to stop the Italians coming in via Albania. Nevertheless they held back the Germans. Unfortunately the invasion in the west was successful and Greece had to surrender. Roupel did not surrender. They had no communication with the outside world and continued the fight. Finally word got through and the men had to surrender.
We were allowed to take photos but not of the soldiers. Before we went underground a couple from Israel joined us. The tunnels are very long but we were taken only to a distance of 150 meters. The defences, medical centre, kitchens and toilets were very impressive. After a coffee we gave our thanks to George and his colleagues for a very interesting and informative tour.
Fort Roupel
Yesterday we met a Greek gentleman who said they had just visited a military museum near the Bulgarian border. He told us of a 5 km long tunnel that we could visit.
Before leaving we went into the kitchen where Aristides and his father were preparing the lambs for tomorrow. It did not look easy as there was a lot of wire holding the carcass to the skewer. They were preparing 2 lambs and 2 goats. Ian volunteered to help, which would mean getting up at 0500 tomorrow morning.
Roupel was only 45 minutes away and we found the place to be very busy and very interesting. Because the place is a military site we had to hand over one passport to the very polite and friendly soldier at the gate. After climbing 2.5 km up the mountain on a very good road we arrived at the top where another soldier guided us to the best parking area. Another soldier took us to meet yet another soldier called George, who spoke English. His profession, outside the army, was historian and he gave us a very detailed account of the old fortress.
It was built on this mountain because it overlooked the pass from Bulgaria. At the time in the late 1930’s Bulgaria was a threat to Greece. The project was started in 1936 and finished in 1940.The view from the top was excellent and on a clear day we would see Sandanski. There was another facility on a mountain at the other side of the valley.
Basically these places held back the Germans when they invaded Greece. The place could hold 44 Officers and around 1000 troops. However a lot of the men had been sent west to try to stop the Italians coming in via Albania. Nevertheless they held back the Germans. Unfortunately the invasion in the west was successful and Greece had to surrender. Roupel did not surrender. They had no communication with the outside world and continued the fight. Finally word got through and the men had to surrender.
We were allowed to take photos but not of the soldiers. Before we went underground a couple from Israel joined us. The tunnels are very long but we were taken only to a distance of 150 meters. The defences, medical centre, kitchens and toilets were very impressive. After a coffee we gave our thanks to George and his colleagues for a very interesting and informative tour.
On the way back to Kerkini we stopped at Mandraki, next to the lake and had our lunch. A German MH drove up and we realised we had met before at Camp Poseidon. The area had a harbour which had grown over. However we were able to see a lot of birds such as pelican, egrets, moorhen and cormorants. It was a very hot day. Probably the hottest so far this year, 27°C.
Back at Elodia the place was full of cars and coaches. Poor Chrissi must have been worked off her feet. Another motorhome arrived with an Australian couple called Julie and Brian. We had a chat about the weekend and they decided to stay. We all made a booking for the roast lamb. In the evening a sudden wind storm hit us. It lasted about 30 minutes and blew lots of seeds and fluff from the trees.
Back at Elodia the place was full of cars and coaches. Poor Chrissi must have been worked off her feet. Another motorhome arrived with an Australian couple called Julie and Brian. We had a chat about the weekend and they decided to stay. We all made a booking for the roast lamb. In the evening a sudden wind storm hit us. It lasted about 30 minutes and blew lots of seeds and fluff from the trees.
Ian basting the lambs and goats.
Sunday 28 April 2019
Easter Lamb
As promised Ian rose at 05-00 to help Aristides with the lamb. Aristides arrived at 06-00!
The BBQ area had been especially built by Aristides. Four low walls and a low roof. First job was to get some charcoal burning and then install the electric spit turners for the lambs. Once that was done panels were suspended from the roof to isolate the carcasses from each other.
Then we went into the large fridge to bring the prepared meat to the fire. This was a little fiddly but finally each animal was in its own place and turning nicely.
The burning charcoal was then placed in four places per animal; two each side. Basically they were on the corners of each partition. From then on it was a matter of basting and basting. Every few minutes oil was brushed onto the meat. This continued from about 0700 to 1300. It was a hot sunny day and the heat from the fire made us all thirsty. Luckily we were in the grounds of a taverna and bottles of Alpha appeared regularly. The charcoal had to be topped up regularly as well.
Easter Lamb
As promised Ian rose at 05-00 to help Aristides with the lamb. Aristides arrived at 06-00!
The BBQ area had been especially built by Aristides. Four low walls and a low roof. First job was to get some charcoal burning and then install the electric spit turners for the lambs. Once that was done panels were suspended from the roof to isolate the carcasses from each other.
Then we went into the large fridge to bring the prepared meat to the fire. This was a little fiddly but finally each animal was in its own place and turning nicely.
The burning charcoal was then placed in four places per animal; two each side. Basically they were on the corners of each partition. From then on it was a matter of basting and basting. Every few minutes oil was brushed onto the meat. This continued from about 0700 to 1300. It was a hot sunny day and the heat from the fire made us all thirsty. Luckily we were in the grounds of a taverna and bottles of Alpha appeared regularly. The charcoal had to be topped up regularly as well.
Easter Sunday Dinner. Fantastic.
For the last two hours the skewers were lowered nearer to the fire and the basting now consisted of oil and lemon juice. Note: the oil was not olive oil or it would have burnt.
The lamb and goat were carried into the kitchen as they were ready. It was about 1500 when we sat down to eat with Julie and Brian. What a spread we had before us: a large chunk of meat, lemon oven potatoes, chips (who asked for chips?) Greek salad, bread and red wine. Not forgetting the ice cream. There was no way we could finish it all. The taverna dogs will be very happy for a long time.
Ian did not have to pay for his meal being the “Masterchef”. Everybody else paid €22.00 each.
We were sitting next to the pond and noticed a large animal was swimming towards us. At first it looked like a beaver but the tail was wrong. Anyway people were throwing chips to it and it seemed very tame. Later we found out it was a coypu. Native to South America and nobody knows why they are in the area.
The lamb and goat were carried into the kitchen as they were ready. It was about 1500 when we sat down to eat with Julie and Brian. What a spread we had before us: a large chunk of meat, lemon oven potatoes, chips (who asked for chips?) Greek salad, bread and red wine. Not forgetting the ice cream. There was no way we could finish it all. The taverna dogs will be very happy for a long time.
Ian did not have to pay for his meal being the “Masterchef”. Everybody else paid €22.00 each.
We were sitting next to the pond and noticed a large animal was swimming towards us. At first it looked like a beaver but the tail was wrong. Anyway people were throwing chips to it and it seemed very tame. Later we found out it was a coypu. Native to South America and nobody knows why they are in the area.
Quiet drink with Julia and Brian.
Monday 29 April 2019
Greek Delight
We slept in this morning. No sooner had we eaten breakfast than it was lunchtime. We skipped the lunch and went for a walk to the harbour. We have never seen so many cars and people all waiting to get on a boat and look at the birdlife. We’ve done it before and it is amazingly good.
Meanwhile Julie and Brian went to Roupel. They returned in the evening and we enjoyed a beer together. Tomorrow they will head to Thessaloniki and then Albania. Our plan is to get to Hungary.
Some of the village people had set up stalls at the harbour and one of them was selling Akanes. We have been looking for this for about 2 weeks. Akanes is a Greek sweet similar to Turkish Delight, only that it is flavoured with fresh goats milk butter rather than fruit essences. It is made exclusively in the town of Serres in Northern Greece.
Back at Elodia the car park was once again packed solid as people came for an evening meal.
Greek Delight
We slept in this morning. No sooner had we eaten breakfast than it was lunchtime. We skipped the lunch and went for a walk to the harbour. We have never seen so many cars and people all waiting to get on a boat and look at the birdlife. We’ve done it before and it is amazingly good.
Meanwhile Julie and Brian went to Roupel. They returned in the evening and we enjoyed a beer together. Tomorrow they will head to Thessaloniki and then Albania. Our plan is to get to Hungary.
Some of the village people had set up stalls at the harbour and one of them was selling Akanes. We have been looking for this for about 2 weeks. Akanes is a Greek sweet similar to Turkish Delight, only that it is flavoured with fresh goats milk butter rather than fruit essences. It is made exclusively in the town of Serres in Northern Greece.
Back at Elodia the car park was once again packed solid as people came for an evening meal.
Tuesday 30 April 2019
High Tech Bulgaria
We left Kerkini around 1000 and drove to the Bulgarian border. The crossing was quiet and we were quickly through. However, Bulgaria has gone hi-tech. At the Shell station we wanted to purchase a vignette for use of the motorways. It costs around £7.00 for 10 days. However at Shell we were directed to a computer terminal specially made to sell vignettes.
For a start instructions were in Bulgarian Cyrillic but the worst part was that we should have to pay by card. Do you want to leave your card details in a far off land. Buying a £500.00 stay in a luxury hotel.. maybe. But for £7.00… not on your Nelly.
We went down the road to the LukOil station. At least the machine was being controlled by a person and we could pay in Euros. Sadly the young lass was not the sharpest knife in the drawer. She could not understand the country code for Bessy. We tried several options for her: GB, UK, Great Britain, England, London, The Queen, Yorkshire Tea and so on. By this time we had built up a queue and they were trying to help the young lass. All came good in the end. But at an international border you would think someone would speak the international language.
Onward and northward. Bulgaria has finished another section of the motorway so we did not have to drive through Sandanski. We still had to drive on the old road through the narrow gorges halfway to Sofia.
Using the motorway helped us make good time. When we arrived in Sofia we had a look at a Truck Stop for possible future use. It looked fine and had a cafe at the entrance.
Sofia Truck Stop: N 42.740199°, E 23.252259°
It was still too early in the day to sit for hours in a truck stop so we plodded on towards Vidin. We’ve been to Vidin several times but this was the first time we drove over the mountains from Sofia. It was a long drag uphill at first but the route was interesting and the road was fairly good. The road was quite busy with cars and lorries and there were many roadworks, We stopped at 1400 in one of the few lay-byes and had lunch. The summit of our road was 1,400 meters (around 4,600 feet) there were a few patches of snow at the roadside.
The next big town was Montana. Why is it called after an American state you may ask? We did and found out the truth.
On 1 March 1945, by a decree of the government, the communist authorities changed the town's name (don’t know what it was originally) to Mihaylovgrad after the Communist Party activist Hristo Mihaylov, a leader of the 1923 September Uprising in the region. In 1993, after a presidential decree, the town received the name Montana, inspired by the name of the nearby Roman settlement. The American state of Montana is so called because the name comes from the Spanish word Montana, which in turn comes from the Latin word Montana, meaning "mountain", or more broadly, "mountainous country”. So now you know.
We have been directed onto strange roads from Montana by the SatNav… bless the map providers! So this time we followed the road signs and the E79 markers. The first part was motorway for a few miles and then back onto normal roads. After Bela we joined the map’s red road which was also called E79.
Nevertheless, we arrived at Vidin Truck Stop at 1700, paid our €3.00 Euro and settled down for dinner and a rest. It rained again. Park4night website suggested a wild camping place at the riverside of Vidin town. We considered that a guarded Truck Stop with toilets and restaurant was probably a better bet and stayed put.
High Tech Bulgaria
We left Kerkini around 1000 and drove to the Bulgarian border. The crossing was quiet and we were quickly through. However, Bulgaria has gone hi-tech. At the Shell station we wanted to purchase a vignette for use of the motorways. It costs around £7.00 for 10 days. However at Shell we were directed to a computer terminal specially made to sell vignettes.
For a start instructions were in Bulgarian Cyrillic but the worst part was that we should have to pay by card. Do you want to leave your card details in a far off land. Buying a £500.00 stay in a luxury hotel.. maybe. But for £7.00… not on your Nelly.
We went down the road to the LukOil station. At least the machine was being controlled by a person and we could pay in Euros. Sadly the young lass was not the sharpest knife in the drawer. She could not understand the country code for Bessy. We tried several options for her: GB, UK, Great Britain, England, London, The Queen, Yorkshire Tea and so on. By this time we had built up a queue and they were trying to help the young lass. All came good in the end. But at an international border you would think someone would speak the international language.
Onward and northward. Bulgaria has finished another section of the motorway so we did not have to drive through Sandanski. We still had to drive on the old road through the narrow gorges halfway to Sofia.
Using the motorway helped us make good time. When we arrived in Sofia we had a look at a Truck Stop for possible future use. It looked fine and had a cafe at the entrance.
Sofia Truck Stop: N 42.740199°, E 23.252259°
It was still too early in the day to sit for hours in a truck stop so we plodded on towards Vidin. We’ve been to Vidin several times but this was the first time we drove over the mountains from Sofia. It was a long drag uphill at first but the route was interesting and the road was fairly good. The road was quite busy with cars and lorries and there were many roadworks, We stopped at 1400 in one of the few lay-byes and had lunch. The summit of our road was 1,400 meters (around 4,600 feet) there were a few patches of snow at the roadside.
The next big town was Montana. Why is it called after an American state you may ask? We did and found out the truth.
On 1 March 1945, by a decree of the government, the communist authorities changed the town's name (don’t know what it was originally) to Mihaylovgrad after the Communist Party activist Hristo Mihaylov, a leader of the 1923 September Uprising in the region. In 1993, after a presidential decree, the town received the name Montana, inspired by the name of the nearby Roman settlement. The American state of Montana is so called because the name comes from the Spanish word Montana, which in turn comes from the Latin word Montana, meaning "mountain", or more broadly, "mountainous country”. So now you know.
We have been directed onto strange roads from Montana by the SatNav… bless the map providers! So this time we followed the road signs and the E79 markers. The first part was motorway for a few miles and then back onto normal roads. After Bela we joined the map’s red road which was also called E79.
Nevertheless, we arrived at Vidin Truck Stop at 1700, paid our €3.00 Euro and settled down for dinner and a rest. It rained again. Park4night website suggested a wild camping place at the riverside of Vidin town. We considered that a guarded Truck Stop with toilets and restaurant was probably a better bet and stayed put.
In the town where Hercules Baths are to be found.
Wednesday 1 May 2019
Hercules Baths
By 1030 we were at the Vidin Calafat Bridge over the Danube and the border crossing was quit quick.We bought the Romanian Road Tax for 6 Euro. However we had been poking around in cupboards and found some Romanian Lei so we paid with that.
Shortly after the border we headed towards Orsova. Basically the road followed the Danube across a very large plain, and it became very windy. The newish road bypassed Turnu Severin luckily there was a filling station so we topped up with diesel. Then onward to Orsova. At that point we left the Danube and headed north. Today is May Day but the traffic was quite heavy including many lorries.
About 15 Km north of Orsova is Baile Herculane (Hercules Bath) where we had stopped some years ago when travelling with a Land Rover and a tent. We were curious to see if the place had changed. Somehow we ended up on the wrong road (there’s not too many) and found ourselves on the wrong side of the river in the old village. We managed to find a bridge that looked like it would support Bessy and took it. But it took us through a very packed car park.
It was pouring with rain but hundreds of people, and cars, were on the streets. We could not see where we had camped and we did not want to get trapped in the town so headed back to the main road. At least we could not smell the place; maybe the rain was washing it away. On our first visit the whole town and surroundings stank of rotten eggs.
Hercules Baths
By 1030 we were at the Vidin Calafat Bridge over the Danube and the border crossing was quit quick.We bought the Romanian Road Tax for 6 Euro. However we had been poking around in cupboards and found some Romanian Lei so we paid with that.
Shortly after the border we headed towards Orsova. Basically the road followed the Danube across a very large plain, and it became very windy. The newish road bypassed Turnu Severin luckily there was a filling station so we topped up with diesel. Then onward to Orsova. At that point we left the Danube and headed north. Today is May Day but the traffic was quite heavy including many lorries.
About 15 Km north of Orsova is Baile Herculane (Hercules Bath) where we had stopped some years ago when travelling with a Land Rover and a tent. We were curious to see if the place had changed. Somehow we ended up on the wrong road (there’s not too many) and found ourselves on the wrong side of the river in the old village. We managed to find a bridge that looked like it would support Bessy and took it. But it took us through a very packed car park.
It was pouring with rain but hundreds of people, and cars, were on the streets. We could not see where we had camped and we did not want to get trapped in the town so headed back to the main road. At least we could not smell the place; maybe the rain was washing it away. On our first visit the whole town and surroundings stank of rotten eggs.
Silvia Camp. Not as basic as it looks.
Around 1500 we came across Silvia Motel and Camping so we stopped. Ian went into the old communist style motel and eventually found someone who was prepared to speak to a non-Romanian. Surely “camping” is pretty universal except in Hungary where they call it “kemping”.
Anyway a young lad let us into the “camp”. It was an old orchard with wet grass under us. Three Austrian motorhomes were there already so we found an electric socket at the far end near the toilet. The toilet was basically a roughly built shed but did have a proper porcelain pot and it was quite clean. Next to the toilet was an open fronted washroom with two basins, mirrors and electrical outlets. There was also a wooden chair, coat hooks and a pile of wood.
At the other end of the field was another toilet and a shower; again very basic but working well. The cubicle walls were plastic and the door was glass but had been painted white most of the way up and the image of a shower in red. Through the frequent rain showers Judit went for a much needed shower and hair wash. The water was nice and hot. Ian was also sent to have a shower!
The cost of the camp for one night was €10.00. Not bad really.
Anyway a young lad let us into the “camp”. It was an old orchard with wet grass under us. Three Austrian motorhomes were there already so we found an electric socket at the far end near the toilet. The toilet was basically a roughly built shed but did have a proper porcelain pot and it was quite clean. Next to the toilet was an open fronted washroom with two basins, mirrors and electrical outlets. There was also a wooden chair, coat hooks and a pile of wood.
At the other end of the field was another toilet and a shower; again very basic but working well. The cubicle walls were plastic and the door was glass but had been painted white most of the way up and the image of a shower in red. Through the frequent rain showers Judit went for a much needed shower and hair wash. The water was nice and hot. Ian was also sent to have a shower!
The cost of the camp for one night was €10.00. Not bad really.
Deva Castle with funicular railway.
Thursday 2 May 2019
Tourists beware
The rain had stopped by the morning but the ground was very soft and we had to do a bit of jiggling around to get moving. Gallons of water poured off Bessy’s roof as we went past the Austrians… oops.
We turned right off the main road at Caransebes and drove through Otelo Rosu, Zavoi, Voislova and many other small villages towards Hateg, which was the first town we came to. The next big place was Simeria where we joined a good quality motorway to Deva.
Thanks to Google Earth and the SatNav we found the castle car park. We searched for a paying booth but no success and then a Czech motorhome driver told us that you can only pay by SMS. It seemed a bit much and too complicated for €0.25 and the risk of giving away details to an unknown Romanian so we decided not to bother. Maybe we’ll have a fine waiting for us at home.
Anyway we went to the queue for the funicular railway to the top of the extinct volcano where the castle was perched. When we arrived at the front of the queue the cashier told us that we could not pay in Euros, only Lei or a card. Ian turned around in a huff and went back to Bessy. One moment we have to pay with Euros and the next we cannot. However, Judit found a card and we queued again. The cost was 10 Lei each for oldies like us. (about 90p)
The funicular is very modern and very steep. The distance to the top was said to be about 300 meter. It was certainly much easier and quicker than taking the spiral footpath around the hill to the top.
The castle ruins are quite impressive with thick inner walls and thinner outer walls. It was built in the 13th century and was one of the first royal castles in Erdely (Transylvania). During the 1848 freedom fighting it was accidentally blown up by a barrel of gunpowder. There is a very good view of the surrounding countryside from the top. There are also signs everywhere telling us to “Beware of Vipers”; so we did.
Tourists beware
The rain had stopped by the morning but the ground was very soft and we had to do a bit of jiggling around to get moving. Gallons of water poured off Bessy’s roof as we went past the Austrians… oops.
We turned right off the main road at Caransebes and drove through Otelo Rosu, Zavoi, Voislova and many other small villages towards Hateg, which was the first town we came to. The next big place was Simeria where we joined a good quality motorway to Deva.
Thanks to Google Earth and the SatNav we found the castle car park. We searched for a paying booth but no success and then a Czech motorhome driver told us that you can only pay by SMS. It seemed a bit much and too complicated for €0.25 and the risk of giving away details to an unknown Romanian so we decided not to bother. Maybe we’ll have a fine waiting for us at home.
Anyway we went to the queue for the funicular railway to the top of the extinct volcano where the castle was perched. When we arrived at the front of the queue the cashier told us that we could not pay in Euros, only Lei or a card. Ian turned around in a huff and went back to Bessy. One moment we have to pay with Euros and the next we cannot. However, Judit found a card and we queued again. The cost was 10 Lei each for oldies like us. (about 90p)
The funicular is very modern and very steep. The distance to the top was said to be about 300 meter. It was certainly much easier and quicker than taking the spiral footpath around the hill to the top.
The castle ruins are quite impressive with thick inner walls and thinner outer walls. It was built in the 13th century and was one of the first royal castles in Erdely (Transylvania). During the 1848 freedom fighting it was accidentally blown up by a barrel of gunpowder. There is a very good view of the surrounding countryside from the top. There are also signs everywhere telling us to “Beware of Vipers”; so we did.
Magna Curia Museum... outside.
Our next tourist venture was to descend in the funicular and look for the Magna Curia museum. Of course there was no parking area and the narrow streets were packed with badly parked cars. It would make a very good test for potential motorhome drivers with just centimetres to spare each side. Ian found a street nearby that had space for him to park half on the footpath and half on the road… just like the other vehicles. Judit walked back to the museum and was told that she could not pay in Euros and NOT by card. She’d had enough so took some photos of the outside and went back to Ian. They must lose a lot of money from foreign visitors. It’s annoying when you can generally pay in Euros in most countries in Central and Eastern Europe.
We left Deva and headed for a campsite at Zam, on the Arad road, that had a good write up on various websites. The road and the countryside was very pleasant following the Maros river. When we arrived the camp gates were open so Ian went into the building at the gate. A rather grumpy women gesticulated that there was no camping. So we drove on.
A few kilometers on we stopped at a filling station for lunch and diesel. A very nice, pleasant and NOT grumpy young lady explained that they could not, at the time, take Euros or cards. She said they were too far away from a town and there was no internet. She did suggest we try in Temesvar (Timisoara).
We turned left at Savarsin and headed south to join the E68 at Faget. The countryside was very pleasant but the road was appalling. It was narrow and had been made from concrete blocks. After 20 km of this our fillings were falling out. We soon joined the E70 motorway which was smooth and quick and we arrived in Temesvar around 1600. We have tried to find the camp at Temesvar several times and each time we had been thwarted by roadworks or bad road signs. This time we found it but the gates were closed. By chance we spotted another sign that the campsite entrance was on another road. We made a guess and found it. Look at the Camps and Night Stop page for details.
The nice man at the gate was delighted to speak Hungarian and English. The camp is an old Communist one with chalets in a forest. However an area is set aside for motorhomes. It’s clear that they are trying to update things and it is very acceptable but cost us €22.00 for one night with electricity. There was wifi bit to be honest it didn’t reach the motorhome area.
After a shower of rain we found it to be pleasant and sunny at 1800.
We left Deva and headed for a campsite at Zam, on the Arad road, that had a good write up on various websites. The road and the countryside was very pleasant following the Maros river. When we arrived the camp gates were open so Ian went into the building at the gate. A rather grumpy women gesticulated that there was no camping. So we drove on.
A few kilometers on we stopped at a filling station for lunch and diesel. A very nice, pleasant and NOT grumpy young lady explained that they could not, at the time, take Euros or cards. She said they were too far away from a town and there was no internet. She did suggest we try in Temesvar (Timisoara).
We turned left at Savarsin and headed south to join the E68 at Faget. The countryside was very pleasant but the road was appalling. It was narrow and had been made from concrete blocks. After 20 km of this our fillings were falling out. We soon joined the E70 motorway which was smooth and quick and we arrived in Temesvar around 1600. We have tried to find the camp at Temesvar several times and each time we had been thwarted by roadworks or bad road signs. This time we found it but the gates were closed. By chance we spotted another sign that the campsite entrance was on another road. We made a guess and found it. Look at the Camps and Night Stop page for details.
The nice man at the gate was delighted to speak Hungarian and English. The camp is an old Communist one with chalets in a forest. However an area is set aside for motorhomes. It’s clear that they are trying to update things and it is very acceptable but cost us €22.00 for one night with electricity. There was wifi bit to be honest it didn’t reach the motorhome area.
After a shower of rain we found it to be pleasant and sunny at 1800.
Friday 3 May 2019
Memories
After leaving we back tracked a little and joined the motorway heading for Arad and the Hungarian border. We were reminded that the first time we entered Romania we had to obtain a visa from the Romanian Embassy in Budapest. Then we had lengthy bureaucracy at the border. Rather than change currency at the border we would drive a few km past the border to a small village where we knocked on the green gate to change our cash at a much better rate. Even the border guards told us to do that.
Then we encountered the roads. They were called roads but they were really potholes joined by small strips of crumbling asphalt. Sometimes the holes had been filled in but not levelled. Oh what joy. Every few km there would be a policeman. They often called ahead to tell the next policeman that a rich capitalist was on his way. That meant being stopped. The reason for stopping would be pure fantasy but we still had to pay a fine and often without proof of payment. The police at that time preferred Deutschmarks.
The Bucharest “ring road” was the ultimate experience and should have been preserved so future generations could experience what life had been like under Communism. In many parts it was made of concrete slabs, but some were missing. Many of the others had collapsed at one side and therefore were sticking up at crazy angles. There was a “level crossing” in name only. In reality the road was level with the bottom of the sleepers and we had to drive up and over the rails. And next came the border with Bulgaria. There was a lot more stamping of papers at the Romanian side but luckily the Bulgarian side was a little more sensible.
Enough.
Now we were on a motorway that took us to the Hungarian border and the famous anti-immigrant fence. All the way though from Greece we had not seen a sign of an illegal immigrant. That’s probably why the border guard did not even ask how many people were in the MH, never mind poking around for 20 minutes.
Then it was a quick stop to get the Hungarian vignette and onward to Kecskemet, turn west to cross the Tisza at Dunafoldvar and on towards Lake Balaton. We must add that the famous Prime Minister, Viktor Orban could use his EU money more wisely and repair the road from Kecskemet to Dunafoldvar. It reminded us of the old Romanian roads.
Memories
After leaving we back tracked a little and joined the motorway heading for Arad and the Hungarian border. We were reminded that the first time we entered Romania we had to obtain a visa from the Romanian Embassy in Budapest. Then we had lengthy bureaucracy at the border. Rather than change currency at the border we would drive a few km past the border to a small village where we knocked on the green gate to change our cash at a much better rate. Even the border guards told us to do that.
Then we encountered the roads. They were called roads but they were really potholes joined by small strips of crumbling asphalt. Sometimes the holes had been filled in but not levelled. Oh what joy. Every few km there would be a policeman. They often called ahead to tell the next policeman that a rich capitalist was on his way. That meant being stopped. The reason for stopping would be pure fantasy but we still had to pay a fine and often without proof of payment. The police at that time preferred Deutschmarks.
The Bucharest “ring road” was the ultimate experience and should have been preserved so future generations could experience what life had been like under Communism. In many parts it was made of concrete slabs, but some were missing. Many of the others had collapsed at one side and therefore were sticking up at crazy angles. There was a “level crossing” in name only. In reality the road was level with the bottom of the sleepers and we had to drive up and over the rails. And next came the border with Bulgaria. There was a lot more stamping of papers at the Romanian side but luckily the Bulgarian side was a little more sensible.
Enough.
Now we were on a motorway that took us to the Hungarian border and the famous anti-immigrant fence. All the way though from Greece we had not seen a sign of an illegal immigrant. That’s probably why the border guard did not even ask how many people were in the MH, never mind poking around for 20 minutes.
Then it was a quick stop to get the Hungarian vignette and onward to Kecskemet, turn west to cross the Tisza at Dunafoldvar and on towards Lake Balaton. We must add that the famous Prime Minister, Viktor Orban could use his EU money more wisely and repair the road from Kecskemet to Dunafoldvar. It reminded us of the old Romanian roads.
With Julia and Brian at Herend Porcelain Factory.
Friday 3 May 2019
Hungarian Break
Our stay in Hungary was to see the family again. But we did have a lovely surprise when Brian and Julia arrived. We last saw them in Kerkini. They needed a couple of spares for their MH so we took them to Balatonfured where there is a MH shop and service.
Judit cooked some Hungarian food for them and we enjoyed a couple of beers. Excellent day.
The following day we took them for a trip to Herend. This is a famous Hungarian porcelain manufacturer and the tour of the site was very impressive. Lots of demonstrations of their techniques. Damned good stuff but pricy.
Hungarian Break
Our stay in Hungary was to see the family again. But we did have a lovely surprise when Brian and Julia arrived. We last saw them in Kerkini. They needed a couple of spares for their MH so we took them to Balatonfured where there is a MH shop and service.
Judit cooked some Hungarian food for them and we enjoyed a couple of beers. Excellent day.
The following day we took them for a trip to Herend. This is a famous Hungarian porcelain manufacturer and the tour of the site was very impressive. Lots of demonstrations of their techniques. Damned good stuff but pricy.
The MiFi. Glass for scale of course.
MiFi… and could be yours
Time to take the plunge and see what MiFi is all about. In Veszprem there is a branch of Media Markt inside Tesco supermarket. The man in charge did not seem to know about MiFi but after a bit of shuffling of boxes we found just the thing. It comes from China, of course, and this model is made by Huawei. The actual MiFi resembles a bar of soap and has one switch and a small screen. Cost: about £30.
The next step was to visit the various mobile phone suppliers in Budapest to get the best deal on an SD card. In Hungary the best deal was from Telenor who sold me 6GB of data over 30 days for about £10.00. It was simplicity itself to insert the SD card into the MiFi and once switched on I was on the internet. The MiFi “box” acts as a wifi router.
That was it. No tricks. It really works very well indeed. The screen showed how much data I had used, so no surprises.
Now when we visit another country we only need to change the SD card. Fantastic.
Time to take the plunge and see what MiFi is all about. In Veszprem there is a branch of Media Markt inside Tesco supermarket. The man in charge did not seem to know about MiFi but after a bit of shuffling of boxes we found just the thing. It comes from China, of course, and this model is made by Huawei. The actual MiFi resembles a bar of soap and has one switch and a small screen. Cost: about £30.
The next step was to visit the various mobile phone suppliers in Budapest to get the best deal on an SD card. In Hungary the best deal was from Telenor who sold me 6GB of data over 30 days for about £10.00. It was simplicity itself to insert the SD card into the MiFi and once switched on I was on the internet. The MiFi “box” acts as a wifi router.
That was it. No tricks. It really works very well indeed. The screen showed how much data I had used, so no surprises.
Now when we visit another country we only need to change the SD card. Fantastic.
Hallstatter See. Very picturesque.
Friday 21 June 2019
On the road again
From the Lake Balaton area (north side) it’s easy to get to Austria. Just follow the Number 8 road in a westerly direction. The road is good and it’s a pleasant drive. In previous years we’ve continued all the way to St Gothard. So for a change we turned off the Number 8 at Kám towards Szombathely. Incidentally Szombathely means “Saturday Place”. Nothing wrong with that, but there is no “Monday Place” or “Wednesday Place” for example, so why is this town selected to be named “Saturday Place”?
Shortly after we crossed into Austria. Two lonely looking conscripted squaddies gave us a nod as we went through. Clearly we do not look like people smugglers.
Onward to Liezen where there is a small Stellplatz we have used before. A long drive but no other options really.
The next day we treated ourselves to McDonald’s Egg McMuffins for breakfast and ate them outside. Not bad at all.
Our target was Salzburg and on the way we went through a village with a lovely short name “Au”. It was here we turned left and wandered down the western side of Hallstatter See Lake. It was delightful but absolutely packed with tourists like us. It reminded us of Lake Windermere on Easter Bank Holiday. The water was very clear and according to the tourist info there is a lot of diving activity.
On the road again
From the Lake Balaton area (north side) it’s easy to get to Austria. Just follow the Number 8 road in a westerly direction. The road is good and it’s a pleasant drive. In previous years we’ve continued all the way to St Gothard. So for a change we turned off the Number 8 at Kám towards Szombathely. Incidentally Szombathely means “Saturday Place”. Nothing wrong with that, but there is no “Monday Place” or “Wednesday Place” for example, so why is this town selected to be named “Saturday Place”?
Shortly after we crossed into Austria. Two lonely looking conscripted squaddies gave us a nod as we went through. Clearly we do not look like people smugglers.
Onward to Liezen where there is a small Stellplatz we have used before. A long drive but no other options really.
The next day we treated ourselves to McDonald’s Egg McMuffins for breakfast and ate them outside. Not bad at all.
Our target was Salzburg and on the way we went through a village with a lovely short name “Au”. It was here we turned left and wandered down the western side of Hallstatter See Lake. It was delightful but absolutely packed with tourists like us. It reminded us of Lake Windermere on Easter Bank Holiday. The water was very clear and according to the tourist info there is a lot of diving activity.
We had to retrace our steps to Au and drove on through Bad Ischl to St Gilgen where we found a car park. The fee for parking was a little confusing and a very friendly German minibus driver helped us out. It was one price of €25.00 for 24 hours for motorhomes. There was no option for a shorter period. On top of that there was a sign for “No Camping”.
We considered that this was daylight robbery so left them to it. It looks like Austria do not want motorhome tourists, this on top of the extortionate motorway tolls.
To Salzburg Night Stop. We must have entered some strange coordinates in to the SatNav because we found ourselves in the Police Station car park. Maybe not! So we did a bit more wriggling around northern Salzburg and got to the the intended Night Stop. This is a car park for a park and it’s free. The park was very pleasant with swimmers and toilets and restaurants… but not today. There were other lakes for fishermen as well. Luckily we were back inside Bessy when a thunderstorm hit us.
We considered that this was daylight robbery so left them to it. It looks like Austria do not want motorhome tourists, this on top of the extortionate motorway tolls.
To Salzburg Night Stop. We must have entered some strange coordinates in to the SatNav because we found ourselves in the Police Station car park. Maybe not! So we did a bit more wriggling around northern Salzburg and got to the the intended Night Stop. This is a car park for a park and it’s free. The park was very pleasant with swimmers and toilets and restaurants… but not today. There were other lakes for fishermen as well. Luckily we were back inside Bessy when a thunderstorm hit us.
Neuburg an der Donau festival.
Sunday 23 June 2019
Danube
From Salzburg we were soon in Germany and took advantage of free autobahns. Sorry Austria but you are expensive and greedy.
Our route took us past Chiemsee and Munich. There we headed north to Manching and then west to Neuburg an der Donau. The Stellplatz on the northern bank of the river was easy to find. To our surprise it was packed with about 30 motorhomes. Next to the Stellplatz is a car park for a bus station with toilets and water.
The town itself is very pleasant and has a 14th century palace. As it was only 5 minutes away Judit took off and became a tourist. She meandered the old town and visited the three-floor museum. Lots of rooms and an extensive collection of Dutch and German paintings. There were some Rembrandts and some van Dykes and other Flemish artists’ work along with some very impressive tapestries.
Leaving the museum Judit found herself in a baroque festival with people dressed in period clothing. Music played on period instruments. Judit thought they were practising for a paying festival the following weekend.
Ian had a meander through the streets in the evening. Back at the Night Stop we could see that the river was still high and moving quickly but people were still swimming in it.
Danube
From Salzburg we were soon in Germany and took advantage of free autobahns. Sorry Austria but you are expensive and greedy.
Our route took us past Chiemsee and Munich. There we headed north to Manching and then west to Neuburg an der Donau. The Stellplatz on the northern bank of the river was easy to find. To our surprise it was packed with about 30 motorhomes. Next to the Stellplatz is a car park for a bus station with toilets and water.
The town itself is very pleasant and has a 14th century palace. As it was only 5 minutes away Judit took off and became a tourist. She meandered the old town and visited the three-floor museum. Lots of rooms and an extensive collection of Dutch and German paintings. There were some Rembrandts and some van Dykes and other Flemish artists’ work along with some very impressive tapestries.
Leaving the museum Judit found herself in a baroque festival with people dressed in period clothing. Music played on period instruments. Judit thought they were practising for a paying festival the following weekend.
Ian had a meander through the streets in the evening. Back at the Night Stop we could see that the river was still high and moving quickly but people were still swimming in it.
Idstein house.
Monday 24 June 2019
Lots of steins
In the morning we headed for Nurnberg but several of the smaller roads were blocked for roadworks (A German hobby) so we basically had to drive in a circle to get to the A9 autobahn. Lots of traffic and yet more roadworks. The A3 autobahn was even busier with many lorries and many more roadworks.
Past Frankfurt we followed smaller roads to Idstein, one of many places we passed ending in “stein”. Here was a 20 pitch Stellplatz with 8 hours electricity for €1.00, water and a dump. Sadly there was no shade trees as the weather was very oppressive.
Judit, of course, walked back into the 15th century old town to look at the half-timbered houses and cobbled streets. All the houses were very well kept and painted in bright colours. As it was a very hot day she treated herself to a yogurty-ice-creamy-chocolaty delight.
Back at the Bessy the temperature was still 31°C so we sat outside on the shady side of Bessy. Judit also explored the sports centre next to the Stellplatz and found she could use the toilets for free. (Not like Liezen in Austria!).
Lots of steins
In the morning we headed for Nurnberg but several of the smaller roads were blocked for roadworks (A German hobby) so we basically had to drive in a circle to get to the A9 autobahn. Lots of traffic and yet more roadworks. The A3 autobahn was even busier with many lorries and many more roadworks.
Past Frankfurt we followed smaller roads to Idstein, one of many places we passed ending in “stein”. Here was a 20 pitch Stellplatz with 8 hours electricity for €1.00, water and a dump. Sadly there was no shade trees as the weather was very oppressive.
Judit, of course, walked back into the 15th century old town to look at the half-timbered houses and cobbled streets. All the houses were very well kept and painted in bright colours. As it was a very hot day she treated herself to a yogurty-ice-creamy-chocolaty delight.
Back at the Bessy the temperature was still 31°C so we sat outside on the shady side of Bessy. Judit also explored the sports centre next to the Stellplatz and found she could use the toilets for free. (Not like Liezen in Austria!).
Tuesday 25 June 2019
Holland
Yes, we went to Holland. Although most people call the country Holland only the western area is really Holland. The whole country is Nederland.
It was a hot day as we drove on the autobahn through Cologne, Dusseldorf and Arnhem and Utrecht to Rotterdam. We arrived at the City Camping at 1430 when the temperature was 35.5°C inside Bessy. Luckily we had parked near some trees so sat outside in the shade. The camp is very good and has all the facilities, but it’s expensive at €32.00 for one night.
The tourist information was helpful in that we decided not to visit the town. It appears to be littered with very outlandish modern sculptures. One features a stylised girl rising up from the middle of a dustbin bag… wow.
Holland
Yes, we went to Holland. Although most people call the country Holland only the western area is really Holland. The whole country is Nederland.
It was a hot day as we drove on the autobahn through Cologne, Dusseldorf and Arnhem and Utrecht to Rotterdam. We arrived at the City Camping at 1430 when the temperature was 35.5°C inside Bessy. Luckily we had parked near some trees so sat outside in the shade. The camp is very good and has all the facilities, but it’s expensive at €32.00 for one night.
The tourist information was helpful in that we decided not to visit the town. It appears to be littered with very outlandish modern sculptures. One features a stylised girl rising up from the middle of a dustbin bag… wow.
As close as we could get to Kinderdijk.
Wednesday 26 June 2019
No parking
Judit wanted to see the famous windmills at Kinderdijk. They really are famous and almost every publication about Nederland features a photo of the. So off we went.
We negotiated the spaghetti junctions of Rotterdam motorways and the narrow village streets until we found that there was only one car park open and it was packed with 8 cars. That was that. Thanks very much.
Anyway we wandered around the area and found an Albert Heijn supermarket. Ian used to live in Nederland and was snapping up tinned food, biscuits and booze that reminded him of his stay. His favourite is Erwtesoep which is a pea soup like nothing you’ve ever tasted. It is a meal in itself. Lovely.
A bottle of Bokma Jonge Genever is also a must.
Later we walked along the dyke to see if we could maybe take a ferry and enjoy the views. Sadly they didn’t go where we wanted so we upped sticks and drove to Europort and bordered the ferry at 1500. It may seem boring but we enjoyed the views of Rotterdam harbour and the activities of the various vessels on a lovely Summer’s day.
Six hours later the ferry departed for Hull. We declined the expensive food on offer and ate our own in our cabin. But Ian spotted the coffee shop had some meat pies and couldn’t resist… they are good though.
No parking
Judit wanted to see the famous windmills at Kinderdijk. They really are famous and almost every publication about Nederland features a photo of the. So off we went.
We negotiated the spaghetti junctions of Rotterdam motorways and the narrow village streets until we found that there was only one car park open and it was packed with 8 cars. That was that. Thanks very much.
Anyway we wandered around the area and found an Albert Heijn supermarket. Ian used to live in Nederland and was snapping up tinned food, biscuits and booze that reminded him of his stay. His favourite is Erwtesoep which is a pea soup like nothing you’ve ever tasted. It is a meal in itself. Lovely.
A bottle of Bokma Jonge Genever is also a must.
Later we walked along the dyke to see if we could maybe take a ferry and enjoy the views. Sadly they didn’t go where we wanted so we upped sticks and drove to Europort and bordered the ferry at 1500. It may seem boring but we enjoyed the views of Rotterdam harbour and the activities of the various vessels on a lovely Summer’s day.
Six hours later the ferry departed for Hull. We declined the expensive food on offer and ate our own in our cabin. But Ian spotted the coffee shop had some meat pies and couldn’t resist… they are good though.
Thursday 27 June 2019
Home again
Yesterday we had planned to top up the diesel tank and use up some Euros. However we did not find a filling station on our route to Europort so we called in a Sainsbury on the way out of Hull and they had cheap diesel. The top up took us home. It seemed strange to be in the UK in the Summer.
Home again
Yesterday we had planned to top up the diesel tank and use up some Euros. However we did not find a filling station on our route to Europort so we called in a Sainsbury on the way out of Hull and they had cheap diesel. The top up took us home. It seemed strange to be in the UK in the Summer.
